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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Replaced the temperature sending unit with the correct one from autozone and it still reads low. I may pull the thermostat housing and put in a 195 just in case it's stuck open or something. Not sure why all the temp sensors would be wrong.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Didn't you say the IR gun showed the correct temp at the thermostat housing? If so, your thermostat is working
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Sounds like you have air trapped in the system. A bubble at the thermostat housing would explain the different IR temps, and one at the back of the head is common to cause low temp readings
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 391
Likes: 10
From: Lawrence ****ing Kansas
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a 97 xj 4.0L sport
Is the windshield washer fluid tank inside the driver side fender?
Reason I'm asking is because I'm thinking about buying a snorkel and if it's on the driver side, wouldn't the washer fluid tank get in the way?
Is the windshield washer fluid tank inside the driver side fender?
Reason I'm asking is because I'm thinking about buying a snorkel and if it's on the driver side, wouldn't the washer fluid tank get in the way?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 777
Likes: 5
From: Nolensville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#2 yes
#3 you do a lot of water crossings? Snorkels look cool but there are a lot of drawbacks.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Sounds like you have air trapped in the system. A bubble at the thermostat housing would explain the different IR temps, and one at the back of the head is common to cause low temp readings
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Officially, the air is supposed to work its way out on its own. In reality, that doesn't always happen.
The cleanest way is get the Jeep up to temp and aggressively massage the coolant hoses, squeezing then firmly in different places on each hose. The pressure fluctuations can push out trapped air.
The method I normally use is to raise the rear end of the vehicle so the temperature sending unit at the back of the head is the highest point in the system. I remove the sending unit while the coolant is cold, run it until no more air is coming out of that port, and then I reinstall the sending unit. During that process, I still kneed the coolant hoses.
It may or may not fix your problem, but it's free and doesn't take long to try it
The cleanest way is get the Jeep up to temp and aggressively massage the coolant hoses, squeezing then firmly in different places on each hose. The pressure fluctuations can push out trapped air.
The method I normally use is to raise the rear end of the vehicle so the temperature sending unit at the back of the head is the highest point in the system. I remove the sending unit while the coolant is cold, run it until no more air is coming out of that port, and then I reinstall the sending unit. During that process, I still kneed the coolant hoses.
It may or may not fix your problem, but it's free and doesn't take long to try it
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Officially, the air is supposed to work its way out on its own. In reality, that doesn't always happen.
The cleanest way is get the Jeep up to temp and aggressively massage the coolant hoses, squeezing then firmly in different places on each hose. The pressure fluctuations can push out trapped air.
The method I normally use is to raise the rear end of the vehicle so the temperature sending unit at the back of the head is the highest point in the system. I remove the sending unit while the coolant is cold, run it until no more air is coming out of that port, and then I reinstall the sending unit. During that process, I still kneed the coolant hoses.
It may or may not fix your problem, but it's free and doesn't take long to try it
The cleanest way is get the Jeep up to temp and aggressively massage the coolant hoses, squeezing then firmly in different places on each hose. The pressure fluctuations can push out trapped air.
The method I normally use is to raise the rear end of the vehicle so the temperature sending unit at the back of the head is the highest point in the system. I remove the sending unit while the coolant is cold, run it until no more air is coming out of that port, and then I reinstall the sending unit. During that process, I still kneed the coolant hoses.
It may or may not fix your problem, but it's free and doesn't take long to try it
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 391
Likes: 10
From: Lawrence ****ing Kansas
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What kind of drawbacks? I don't want any drawbacks lol. Aerodynamics? No I don't do a lot of water crossings I just think it could help a little with water but obviously water will never get above the hood
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I suggest looking at the "cowl snorkel" upgrade option if you haven't yet. It increases your fording ability without sacrificing power
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Well I made it back, but then I went to the auto parts store and it was hesitating really bad and barely had any power at all and I thought I was going to be stuck on the side of the road. I think it may be something in the fuel system since it felt like the one time I ran out of gas. I'm really hoping it isn't the fuel pump, but anyone have any suggestions of the best place to look? I plan to run to the parts store and grab a fuel pressure gauge and see where it's at. Speaking of, does anyone know off the top of their head what the pressure should be?
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Officially, the air is supposed to work its way out on its own. In reality, that doesn't always happen.
The cleanest way is get the Jeep up to temp and aggressively massage the coolant hoses, squeezing then firmly in different places on each hose. The pressure fluctuations can push out trapped air.
The method I normally use is to raise the rear end of the vehicle so the temperature sending unit at the back of the head is the highest point in the system. I remove the sending unit while the coolant is cold, run it until no more air is coming out of that port, and then I reinstall the sending unit. During that process, I still kneed the coolant hoses.
It may or may not fix your problem, but it's free and doesn't take long to try it
The cleanest way is get the Jeep up to temp and aggressively massage the coolant hoses, squeezing then firmly in different places on each hose. The pressure fluctuations can push out trapped air.
The method I normally use is to raise the rear end of the vehicle so the temperature sending unit at the back of the head is the highest point in the system. I remove the sending unit while the coolant is cold, run it until no more air is coming out of that port, and then I reinstall the sending unit. During that process, I still kneed the coolant hoses.
It may or may not fix your problem, but it's free and doesn't take long to try it
Well I made it back, but then I went to the auto parts store and it was hesitating really bad and barely had any power at all and I thought I was going to be stuck on the side of the road. I think it may be something in the fuel system since it felt like the one time I ran out of gas. I'm really hoping it isn't the fuel pump, but anyone have any suggestions of the best place to look? I plan to run to the parts store and grab a fuel pressure gauge and see where it's at. Speaking of, does anyone know off the top of their head what the pressure should be?
Don't automatically jump to the fuel pump. Could be the fuel pressure regulator on the rail, could be the o-rings on the FPR, could be the fuel filter too... especially if the truck sat for a while.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Basslicks
lol... funny thing is, I was just thinking that doing it like that would probably work, then I read this.31 PSI at idle and 39 PSI at WOT
Don't automatically jump to the fuel pump. Could be the fuel pressure regulator on the rail, could be the o-rings on the FPR, could be the fuel filter too... especially if the truck sat for a while.
Don't automatically jump to the fuel pump. Could be the fuel pressure regulator on the rail, could be the o-rings on the FPR, could be the fuel filter too... especially if the truck sat for a while.
Last edited by SatiricalHen; Dec 27, 2017 at 10:03 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Haven't test drove it yet because I can't find where I put the stupid cap for the fuel rail and I don't want to drive off with it on the jeep somewhere, but I think even if it wasn't the fuel filter it needed to be replaced anyway
that's the color of the gas that came out
EDIT: update after test drive. Much better, much more power and the fuel pump is silent instead of the buzzing it usually has. Still has a hesitation around 2000 rpms and is a little jumpy, but if I shift there's no more hesitation, or if I just floor it from a stop it'll go all the way to redline without any hesitation, just cruising at or slow acceleration around 2000 rpms gives me hesitation.
that's the color of the gas that came outEDIT: update after test drive. Much better, much more power and the fuel pump is silent instead of the buzzing it usually has. Still has a hesitation around 2000 rpms and is a little jumpy, but if I shift there's no more hesitation, or if I just floor it from a stop it'll go all the way to redline without any hesitation, just cruising at or slow acceleration around 2000 rpms gives me hesitation.
Last edited by SatiricalHen; Dec 27, 2017 at 08:14 PM.




