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Jul 2, 2014 | 09:02 PM
  #44011  
Quote: Whats the most efficient way to remove a large area of paint and rust? Wire wheel or electric sander?
Sand blaster.

What kind of sander do you have? And for that matter what sort of wire wheel? Wire wheels are kinda lame on paint.
Jul 2, 2014 | 09:08 PM
  #44012  
Hate to say it but I might have to put the XJ under a cover for about 2 years. No fear, it will be born again, just going to be away for a bit and I want to work on it myself since my mental stability can't take another ripoff.

What precautions should I take? empty gas and unhook battery?
Jul 2, 2014 | 09:33 PM
  #44013  
Sounds good. For two years storage I'd try fogging the engine, too.
Jul 2, 2014 | 10:47 PM
  #44014  
Quote: Giving it some throttle it fires right up. You think that's the issue then?
Fix any known vacuum leaks first.
Jul 3, 2014 | 10:54 AM
  #44015  
Quote: Sand blaster.

What kind of sander do you have? And for that matter what sort of wire wheel? Wire wheels are kinda lame on paint.
Well this might sound hard to believe, but i dont own a sand blaster. Ill just use my sander
Jul 3, 2014 | 11:01 AM
  #44016  
Quote: Ok guys I'm stuck.

I'm getting a code for my "Battery Temp Sensor" and it's keeping my check engine light on.

I didn't even know it existed til I pulled the battery out. I can't find one anywhere new, there are 2 on ebay that look like mine but are for 97+ (mine is a 96) not sure if they would work or not. Is there a way to bypass it? Or would the 97+ work?

It seems to only be on the obd2 jeeps.
1996 OEM part number is 56027332. Same part number thru 2001.

Rockauto has them.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=320366
Jul 3, 2014 | 12:38 PM
  #44017  
Quote: Well this might sound hard to believe, but i dont own a sand blaster. Ill just use my sander
I was being facetious. Neither are suited to both tasks.

You still didn't answer the other questions. What kind of sander? A little 1/4 sheet palm sander isn't going to get you anything but a sore wrist, neither is a little wire wheel on a drill. Use an angle grinder with a wire cup for the rust and a flap disc for the paint.
Jul 3, 2014 | 01:28 PM
  #44018  
Cherokee Sport Steering Box
There are three bolts holding the steering to the frame. I need info on tightening them. Do I need a "lock tight"?
Jul 3, 2014 | 02:20 PM
  #44019  
Anyone got a copy of the list of front driveshaft sizes I've seen around before? I forget who always posted it.
Jul 3, 2014 | 03:21 PM
  #44020  
I am trying to put in an aftermarket sway bar in my 95 XJ. When I bought it, everything that had anything to do with the sway bar was removed, i.e. no original hardware in the vehicle. When I ordered the swaybar kit, they sent everything, EXCEPT the bolts that mount the bushing to the upper frame. Nobody I can find, has been able to answer me, about the bolts. Can anyone tell me what bolts I need, and where I can get them other than off another XJ? What is the length, threads, pitch, etc. of the bolts? If I can find them out, I can make a trip to home depot and get some new ones.
Jul 3, 2014 | 03:56 PM
  #44021  
They are metric. 15 mm head but not sure on the thread
Jul 3, 2014 | 05:11 PM
  #44022  
Quote: I was being facetious. Neither are suited to both tasks.

You still didn't answer the other questions. What kind of sander? A little 1/4 sheet palm sander isn't going to get you anything but a sore wrist, neither is a little wire wheel on a drill. Use an angle grinder with a wire cup for the rust and a flap disc for the paint.
Alls i really have access to is a palm sander and a weak crappy corded drill. Im just trying to prep the whole interior floor for a new floor pan/bedline. Which brings up my next question; Whats the better way to bedline, scuff the the factory paint and remove the rust and just bedline over that, or take it to bare metal and prime it, then line it?
Jul 3, 2014 | 06:13 PM
  #44023  
Quote: They are metric. 15 mm head but not sure on the thread
Ok, I found some bolts, they work. Now, the problem is, the swaybar I have is too long lol.

When I am installing it, JUST the bar is attached to the frame. I have not put the end links on it yet. But when trying to rotate the bar up and down, the ends where the links would be attached are hitting the coil suspension. Anyone familiar with that problem?

It is an Addco 516 front sway bar.
Jul 3, 2014 | 08:24 PM
  #44024  
Quote: Alls i really have access to is a palm sander and a weak crappy corded drill. Im just trying to prep the whole interior floor for a new floor pan/bedline.
Yeah that won't get you anywhere dude. You'll see really fast lol. It would take about 100 hours to get the surface suitable. Go to HF and get an angle grinder, wire cup brush, and flap discs and get the job done in a single day lol. Been there, done that.

Quote: Which brings up my next question; Whats the better way to bedline, scuff the the factory paint and remove the rust and just bedline over that, or take it to bare metal and prime it, then line it?
Bare metal and scuffed paint are totally fine, you need to deal with the rust if it's bad enough. Small surface corrosion I wouldn't worry about but anywhere it got pitted you risk holding moisture, and rust spreading underneath the bedliner.
Jul 3, 2014 | 09:30 PM
  #44025  
Quote: Yeah that won't get you anywhere dude. You'll see really fast lol. It would take about 100 hours to get the surface suitable. Go to HF and get an angle grinder, wire cup brush, and flap discs and get the job done in a single day lol. Been there, done that.
wire for rust and disc for paint? grit recommendation? other than that thanks