Weird the post was from Jan and you take offense at it now, when the OP didn't....weird

 

Hi I got a couple of questions. I drive a 99 GRAND Cherokee limited 4.0 6 cylinder. Iv had it 3 yrs now n haven't done much maintience to it except regular oil changes, it has 103k on it. I wana do the seafoam to the gas.
1. Do I put full can of it into full tank of gas?
2. I plan on doing the fuel injector upgrade to 784s, should I wait to do seafoam until I have done that swap?
3. Is boring out the throttle body worth doing to my daily driver? If not wats the best way to clean it up?
4. Should I put seafoam in the oil? If so how do I, where should I put it in and how much?
I also plan on flushing coolant system n changing spark plugs. Any other suggestions n how-tos would b great I NEED this jeep to last me atleast another 100k.

 

1) They recommend 1oz per gallon, so add a full bottle to 3/4 tank gas.

2) do it before. you do not want the clogging up your newly cleaned injectors. Doing the treatment via gas tank might be useless if you're changing out the injectors anyways.

3) Yes and no. It improves throttle response and a bit of your low end power. Clean it up by using throttle body cleaner and a clean lint free towel.

4) You CAN, however use caution. It's fairly strong stuff. Add it into the valve cover like you would oil (use ONLY the recommended amount = 1.5oz per quart of oil = ~3/4 can). Drive like that NO MORE THAN 50-75 MILES then change your oil. There are better, safer cleaning solutions than this that i recommend though. Try AutoRX...it works wonders and you just leave that product in for an oil change interval.

The usage I always recommend regarding seafoam is neither of the two you suggested. I always use it through the air intake (or the brake booster hose). This cleans the carbon out of the intake and cylinders, and gives the "smoke show" that seafoam is known for. I use 1/2-1 full can through a HOT intake (slowly - try not to stall the engine), shut off for 15 minutes, take a SPIRITED drive, done.


If you're changing the plugs, use Champion Copper Plugs only, and change the wires at the same time. Cap and rotor never a bad idea to change too.

I would seriously consider a trans fluid flush, and fluid changes on your transfer case and both differentials as well. Fluids are the lifeblood of your vehicle. Change them regularly and it'll last (virtually) forever.

 

Iv done the fluids except front diff n transfer case. Wat should I do for the gas than cuz I'm not sure I'm gonna do injector swap. N wat is rotor n cap I dnt think I have the rotor on my 99 WJ. N how do I put seafoam in the air intake n do I have to pull the throttle body to clean it?

 

Ok I came across a deal....an 8.8 with 373s to replace my 8.25 for 75 bucks...deal or no deal? Or should I hold the $ and go for an 8.8 with 4.10s....

 

This would be for the 33s I'm running as well

 

if you're not sure about the injector swap go ahead and put it in the tank to clean them. See #1 response above

If it's a 99 grand cherokee 4.0L, yes you do have a DISTRIBUTOR cap and rotor.

To put seafoam through your intake the easiest way is to take your jeep for a drive to get it all warmed up. Park w/ engine running. Remove the big rubber hose from the brake booster (should hear it sucking and engine speed go up), SLOWLY let it suck up the seafoam...it will bog down and try to die when you do this, but keep going till it's all gone. If it dies restart and continue sucking it up. You most likely will be producing a bunch of smoke from the tailpipe at this point. When you're done sucking it all up, reattach the booster hose, and shut off the engine. Wait 15 minutes, then restart and rev it up above 2500 rpm for a minute or so (enjoy the smokeshow in the rearview mirror). Then take a "spirited" drive for about 15 minutes to clean everything out (do NOT be gentle on it - you need to get it hot and force things out).

You do not have to pull the TB to clean it, but you can if you want to clean it better. You can clean it fine with it on the jeep though. Try not to spray cleaner in the ports on the side of the throttle body though.

 

im heading out this weekend to go muddin with my buddys, i just bought my xj so it is completely stock...if i get stuck what is the best way to pull it out seeing that i have no tow hooks...i do have a small hitch but it isnt attached to the frame just the bumper mostly... or should i just stay out of the mud all together :/

 

How are your tires? Are the M/T tires with good tread? I do not recommend going near mud without deep lug tires. A/T tires turn into slicks when in mud.

At a absolute minimum you need a rear hitch tied into the frame, not the bumper. Bad things happen trying to pull an XJ out without true recovery points. We don't have a "frame" to attach hooks to, so recovery points need to be attached to the unibody in no less than 4 places. Don't wanna break that new ride before you see what it can really do.

 

So dukie...I told you about the 92 xj 86k on it for 1500. I checked it out Saturday and what a lemon. Rusted all the way through the roof in one spot and rusted through the unibody chasis in 4 spots. The engine had more oil in the bay then in the oil pan...waste of time

 

wow that sucks man. Makes me wonder if it REALLY had 86k on the clock

 

Me too. It wasn't worth 1500. Maybe 500

 

Hey all, I have just purchased a 1996 XJ with 225k on it ($1400)... I was like a little school boy to get in and drive it since it had been about 10yrs since my old '88 XJ.
At any event, I found that the RADIATOR had a leak, no biggie, I've replaced that before so I just bought a cheapo (on a budget) replacement, It will do for the time. At any event, now the temp gauge is going between 180 and 230 degrees. It takes about 2 min for the climb to 230 degrees then it takes like 10 seconds for the drop (I assume the electric fan is kicking on). I did replace the fan clutch as well while I was at it it seemed faulty, so not that, the electric fan is working fine as well. So I drove it about 80 miles on the freeway watching it go up and down up and down... I'm sure this would of given plenty of time for the bubbles to work their way out. So, the question...
What is likely to be causing the temperature fluctuations??
Thanks, Matt

 

Thx dukie for real thx alot! One more question wat is the distributor cap an rotor n wat am I supposed to do to them? Replace them, clean them I dnt kno I'm just tryin to learn as much as I can n soaking it all up.

 

Anyone have some good tips on decreasing the swr??