285/75/16 bead to bead treadwright Load Range D with 2500mi on them, basically brand new. On 16x8 blackrock steel rims. Rims are only 3/4oz out of spec on the spin balancer. I am trying to only use bb's to balance instead of hammer on/stick on weights. According to Treadwright they are only supposed to be bubble balanced which I have not done yet, however on the dynamic spin balancer 3 tires needed 16oz while one only needed 3oz. I believe they were about 65-70lbs per tire. With 8oz per tire of .12g bb's at first I had a slight shimmy at 45mph then smooth up until 70mph where the back tires would start shaking out of control.

Starting 2 weeks ago I am now getting full on death wobble from the front end. From 40-50mph then again at 65mph+. I can look out the window and see the tires whipping back and forth, the steering wheel does nearly 90*turns back and forth, with the jeep nearly hopping, until I shift into neutral and get on the brakes to bring it back under 40mph. Since the death wobble I gradually increased the bb count, I am now up to 1.5lbs or 24oz of .12g match grade airsoft bb's per tire. I think Il pick up another jug and add another half pound per tire. Perhaps 1oz of stick on weight doesn't equal 1oz of internal balance media. Might have to try golf ***** pretty soon.

 

Either a camper, a flatbed with another cherokee on it, or my crap trailer that has usually no more than one ton in it.

 

16 is too much, contact them they will probably fix it.
Another thing, put about a shot glass worth of anti freeze in with the bb's so that the moisture in the tire doesn't make them freeze together.

 

If more bb's doesn't do it Il have to contact them. Do you not have any vibes?

 

I don't recall any that really caught my attention, I traded them a while back for bigger tires.

 

The beater Barnacle has been kicking butt all through this winter.
I'll get to that other rear shock in the Spring.

 

I'm looking at a fuel cell from a guy in my club. I can get an adapter ring to use the stock pump, but it's going to be for the late model XJ's. I still have my old 98's tank and everything with it. Will it work with my 94's wiring and fuel system?

 

How can I test a fog light switch to see if it works? I want to use it to run my own aux lights since I already have driving lights that are hooked up as fog lights, with a HiBeam trip and all. I'm pretty sure my jeep doesn't have the full fog light relay anyway, since it did not come from the factory that way, and there seems to be no other wires connecting to the spots for the relays in the PDC anyway. So, is there any other way to find out besides just wiring it into my own new relay and seeing if it works?

 

DMM or continuity tester.

 

Do you have a fog lamp switch in your switch panel now or are you thinking about getting one to install in the panel?

In any case, here's the 99 wiring diagram for the fog lamp switch.



Here's a photo of the back side of my spare switch panel from a 99 XJ that doesn't have a fog lamp switch but it does/did have the fog lamp switch connector docked in the spot where a fog lamp switch would be. The wire color codes match the wiring diagram. Not shown in the diagram but pin 1 is the Orange wire from the dash lighting circuit and pin 4 is the Black wire for ground at G107 (behind the glove box). If you are interested, you can see if your XJ has the connector in this spot. Maybe you could use the ciruit.

 

Does anyone know where I can find a write up on replacing the OEM electric fan assembly for a 99 XJ Sport? (this is the fan behind the radiator on the driver side)

From what I can tell, it's just unplugging the wire, removing some screws, un-clip the assembly, then put the new one back in. But, just in case there something I am missing, I would like to see a write up or hear from someone who has done it; I have been searching the forum, but can't seem to find one.

I would buy a Chilton, but I hear the Chilton for the XJ is only accurate up until the 98 model, and mine is 99.

Thanks guys!

 

It's exactly how u just described it

 

Check the fan with direct power to battery first. The fans don't often go bad, but the relay and the temperature switch do.

 

The motor or bearings inside the fan assembly do eventually go bad. Builds up resistance and creates a nice noise before it actually goes on. Had it happen in my 01

 

The fan got cracked and the blade fell out when an old man pulled out broadside in front of me and I hit him. It was his fault, so I got a check to replace the bad parts. Luckily my push bumper saved me and the only internal damage was the fan from hitting the belt pulley.

Thanks for the tips though. If I have problems with my new one, what you said will come in handy.