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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 03:31 PM
  #39751  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by deadmansfrag
I know that you can replace a 93 cherokees brake booster and master cylinder with a 96 cherokee but is it possible to just switch out the master cylinder and keep in the 93 brake booster?
You would want the newer dual diaphragm brake booster. (believe it was in 96's...)

Thank you Salad and Cruiser. I did a compression test which yielded some less than desirable numbers in a dry test and then went up when doing a wet test... rings are bad. Also regarding the blow by, I cleaned the TB and hoses, the rear CCV valve was wet with a little oil and i blew out the hose with my air compressor. The fitting on the manifold is cracked, obviously it needs to be replaced, but could that be hurting anything?

Also, this whole thing started right after my oil change on friday. I went from the Wix 51515 to the Wix 51452. Would the valving and pressure cause a change in the engine that would cause this?

Last edited by 94XjSport94; Feb 9, 2014 at 03:38 PM.
Old Feb 9, 2014 | 05:14 PM
  #39752  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Yeah dual diaphragm booster is the whole point lol.


94XjSport94 it sounds like you have a coincidence (this happened while wheeling no?) or you might've knocked something. 51515 and 51452 are identical as far as how the oil behaves. (same flow, bypass rating, etc)
Old Feb 9, 2014 | 05:17 PM
  #39753  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by salad
Yeah dual diaphragm booster is the whole point lol.


94XjSport94 it sounds like you have a coincidence (this happened while wheeling no?) or you might've knocked something. 51515 and 51452 are identical as far as how the oil behaves. (same flow, bypass rating, etc)
Changed oil Friday night, drove around town, then drove 45 minutes to offroad park. I noticed how much it was burning once i got to the park and let it run for 10-15 minutes to stay warm inside and the rest of the day before i started wheeling.
Old Feb 9, 2014 | 05:18 PM
  #39754  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94

Changed oil Friday night, drove around town, then drove 45 minutes to offroad park. I noticed how much it was burning once i got to the park and let it run for 10-15 minutes to stay warm inside and the rest of the day before i started wheeling.
Ohhhhh. Damn. Post up your test results!

Did you change oil brands?
Old Feb 9, 2014 | 05:24 PM
  #39755  
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From: Carrollton, GA
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I think the gauge was faulty or the adapter was leaking, I got 60 dry and ~80 wet. Lol... But it was the same across every cylinder

But the Jeep runs great and has plenty of power...

Same Mobil 1 10w-30 full synthetic I've ran for the past 5 years.

Last edited by 94XjSport94; Feb 9, 2014 at 05:28 PM.
Old Feb 9, 2014 | 05:54 PM
  #39756  
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Anyone know where I can get a pin out diagram of the pins on the back of a 97+ XJ gauge cluster? By applying 12v to certain pins I can get various bulbs to light. I'd like to know what I'm doing to make them light.

Thanks!

Last edited by Snajo; Feb 9, 2014 at 06:02 PM.
Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:03 PM
  #39757  
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From: MO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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IAC question:

1999 Cherokee with the AX-15.

The IAC part number of the IAC from my jeep is 53030821AB.
My service manual states that I need 4874373AB.

I pulled an IAC from a 1998 (AW4) cherokee at the JY and the part number is 53030821.


Can anyone clarify these three numbers and how they are different. All I can see is that the AB version has a shorter plunger. (1/4", but could be that way because of its position when I shut the engine off?)

Last edited by MirageMobile; Feb 9, 2014 at 09:13 PM.
Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:39 PM
  #39758  
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From: Parham, ON
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Originally Posted by MirageMobile
IAC question:

1999 Cherokee with the AX-15.

The IAC part number of the IAC from my jeep is 53030821AB.
My service manual states that I need 4874373AB.

I pulled an IAC from a 1998 (AW4) cherokee at the JY and the part number is 53030821.


Can anyone clarify these three numbers and how they are different. All I can see is that the AB version has a shorter plunger. (1/4", but could be that way because of its position when I shut the engine off?)
No idea what 53030821AB is. It doesn't appear in any book I have and no reputable sites on the 'net. 04874373AB appears to be the appropriate late model IAC. This site makes me think that 53030821 may be compatible http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...4874373AB.html If you feel like a trip back to the JY check out some of the other vehicles listed in the applications section for the other parts.
Old Feb 9, 2014 | 10:36 PM
  #39759  
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Originally Posted by salad
No idea what 53030821AB is. It doesn't appear in any book I have and no reputable sites on the 'net. 04874373AB appears to be the appropriate late model IAC. This site makes me think that 53030821 may be compatible http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...4874373AB.html If you feel like a trip back to the JY check out some of the other vehicles listed in the applications section for the other parts.
Thanks for taking a look, Salad. Those were my conclusions as well.

I just installed the 53030821 (JY unit) for fun into my jeep and she behaves just the same as far as I can tell. Took her for a spin.
Old Feb 9, 2014 | 11:11 PM
  #39760  
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Glad to hear it's working!
Old Feb 10, 2014 | 05:40 AM
  #39761  
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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So I had posted a few weeks ago about my 95 4.0 CHerokee. It had a cooling system problem, and it turned out to be a freeze plug, which the mechanics were able to get at pretty easily to replace it. Easy-peasy - $60.

So now, a few weeks later I came out of the dentist's office and see a big green puddle under the Jeep, along with the usual "smell". And if I started it, water gushed from underneath, wayyyyyyyyyyy back towards the back.

So again I get it towed, to the same mechs. This time, not so lucky. They have to pull the head to get at it. Again, a freeze plug.

What I'm wondering, how many more freeze plugs are there on this engine? If they all start going bad every few weeks, what needs to happen? the whole engine be pulled to get at them? or? I can't understand the mechanics very well, because they really only speak Spanish and my Spanish is minimal.

So, say they pull the head and replace this plug, should I feel pretty secure about it then? or am I looking at having more plugs that would likely also be fixin' to fail due to age?

thx
Old Feb 10, 2014 | 08:19 AM
  #39762  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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What would cause my 1998 XJ 4.0 to miss at a certain engine load? 2100 rpm, 65mph.
Its got new cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires.
Old Feb 10, 2014 | 08:34 AM
  #39763  
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Year: 2001
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Engine: I-6 4.0 L
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
What would cause my 1998 XJ 4.0 to miss at a certain engine load? 2100 rpm, 65mph. Its got new cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires.
Dielectric grease? I had the same problem at idle. It would hiccup and make me scratch my head. Put dielectric grease on all the plug and it was all good.
Old Feb 10, 2014 | 08:36 AM
  #39764  
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Originally Posted by emzdogz
So I had posted a few weeks ago about my 95 4.0 CHerokee. It had a cooling system problem, and it turned out to be a freeze plug, which the mechanics were able to get at pretty easily to replace it. Easy-peasy - $60.

So now, a few weeks later I came out of the dentist's office and see a big green puddle under the Jeep, along with the usual "smell". And if I started it, water gushed from underneath, wayyyyyyyyyyy back towards the back.

So again I get it towed, to the same mechs. This time, not so lucky. They have to pull the head to get at it. Again, a freeze plug.

What I'm wondering, how many more freeze plugs are there on this engine? If they all start going bad every few weeks, what needs to happen? the whole engine be pulled to get at them? or? I can't understand the mechanics very well, because they really only speak Spanish and my Spanish is minimal.

So, say they pull the head and replace this plug, should I feel pretty secure about it then? or am I looking at having more plugs that would likely also be fixin' to fail due to age?

thx
Very high likelihood. If they're pulling the head have them do the rest of the freeze plugs at the same time. Unless you really really like the tow truck driver
Old Feb 10, 2014 | 09:08 AM
  #39765  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
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Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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Originally Posted by cf1k1

Dielectric grease? I had the same problem at idle. It would hiccup and make me scratch my head. Put dielectric grease on all the plug and it was all good.
But why would it miss at 2100rpm? It also does it when going up hills. It doesn't miss at higher rpms.

Last edited by ccooper1234; Feb 10, 2014 at 10:11 AM.



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