I guess I'll just count my ride as one of my few blessings then lol

 

I have a leak on my 1996 2.5 cherokee around the back part of the block just below the head. I've accepted that it is probably the head gasket, but I started reading some stuff about an oil filter adapter today. I was trying to find something on the 2.5 but I didn't have any luck. Do any of you know if the 2.5 also uses the adapter?

 

Ha, i misread your first post. I overlooked the 185k files. Thought you said it doesn't have more than 50k.

With this, the number go down about 1500 on both scales for in ny and outta ny prices. And i hate when ppl say it drives perfect lol. It never does, no offense not singling you out

 

Technically i didn't say it drives perfect............... Lol

 

Nah, but you did say i drives like its not over 50k. But that's why i said i wasn't singling you out. You see ppl selling their cars and they always say that it runs and drives great. No issues at all. You buy it and engine goes a week later rofl

 

I have a good technical question For some of the advanced ppl. Salad and cruiser lol.

Is i possible to put a switch after the HVAC control switch so that the vents will charge positive but the AC, compressor or heat won't go on. Like in never cars you can have the wind that blows in the vehicle just from driving go to your feet so it isn't always blowing your face. Just curious

 

My YJ has a switch position called Vent that let's outside air in without heating or cooling. Don't remember if the other Jeeps had that.

 

Lmao "advanced people"! Is that what a single writeup and 10 minutes in the FSM gets me? :P

Sorta kinda... Our HVAC is indeed annoying. I've already wired in a switch that kills the compressor so I get bilev and recirculate options with heat. Essentially what you want to do is disable the fan. In '97+ XJs the blower motor gets power directly from a 40A fuse in the PDC. The resistor pack is actually part of the motor's ground path. The fan speed **** in the HVAC panel grounds each leg of the resistor pack, and the overly complex mode **** grounds the fan speed switch.

Since the HVAC panel is a giant circuit board and it only has one ground it'd be easier to control power to the fan upstream. There are two ways I can see to do this, the simplest is to break the control side of the relay in the HVAC unit. Not sure how much wire there is to work with but since it's low current and in the cab already it should be very doable with a switch. If this isn't possible another way is to plop a new relay under the hood between the PDC and blower motor and do a switch in the cab.

 

wow I wanna be an advanced person ha

 

$800 for a radiator. People bash me when I say this stuff aint easy.
But, if it was easy, mechanics would not be able to charge $800 for (supposedly) about a hour of work.
That's more than doctors and lawyers wages.
You got off lucky. He could have charged you $1500 and still had a line of customers around the block.

 

I wish. Even to put recirculate on and close the vents, the AC turuns on.

It wierd how they wired it all to one switch like that. Ill look over the schematics and see what i come up with. Thanks.

And besides, i doubt many other users would Chime in before you or cruiser did lol. So yea, "advanced" rofl

 

Go back and read his actual post.

For $800:

- New freeze plugs
- Head was pulled (new bolts, new gaskets, possibly minor machine shop work)
- New radiator
- New thermostat
- Other bits

I'd guess the breakdown is 2:3 for parts:labor. So he paid approximately $480 for a garage to remove and reinstall both exhaust and intake manifolds, remove and reinstall the head, cleaning of all gasket surfaces, replacement of the thermostat, and replacement of the radiator and hoses. This work would easily take a single person an entire day, if so, putting the shop rate at $60/hr.

 

That just means we're not working lol

 

Well get on it lol

 

Sounds about right