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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #34216  
DESERTXJ206's Avatar
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Has anyone delt with "Precut window tint" before? I've seen many reputable companies that offer tint laser cut for each window online that you just have to spray, lay, and squeegie and be done with it.

I'm thinking about doing it for my 88 xj. I figure it cant be too hard and for $30-$50 its worth a try.

If you used it 5+ years ago and it came out shotty I'd assume the quality of tint has improved since then?
Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:57 PM
  #34217  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by Cherockee
But aren't you losing spring rate as the spring arch changes over time? I'm sure it will ride smoother when the spring is flat but it also reduces load capacity. Some arch is required for a proper (truck) ride.
But you don't drive a truck. You drive a unibody SUV into which most people don't put more than a few hundred pounds of cargo. Read below for my clarification.

Originally Posted by SoCalxJ4.0

What size tire do you run? Think about like this. How many square inches do you think are between the wheel and the tire? 20psi in a 33 would be somewhat similar to 30psi in a 31. 20 psi, 3000lb vehicle, same size tire on my f150 I ran it at 32psi street. 2000lbs plus heavier.
Here's the thing:
The tire's sidewall tells you the max safe PSI. The vehicle door sticker tells you the recommended PSI based on the vehicle weight. This is figured out by calculating the amount of air (in³) that needs to be in each tire to support the vehicle.

When larger tires are installed, the same amount of air (or sometimes less due to sidewall stiffness) is needed to support the vehicle, but that amount of air is occupying a larger space due to the increased tire size. This reduces the pressure per square inch in the larger tire while retaining the same amount of air.

Example (On road): On 235/75R15 tires on a YJ, I'd recommend 34PSI. With 33x12.5x15s on an 8" wide wheel on my YJ, I run 26PSI.

Originally Posted by straightsixjeep

Thanks clown. Il keep an eye on the leaves getting to inverted but for now they arent causing any problems.
No problem. Keep in mind a worn out, broken spring is not the same as a new flat spring. If it is worn and busted, your spring rate will be very low due to the fatigued metal. Longer shackles and extensive articulation will likely finish them off faster in this situation.
Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:02 PM
  #34218  
bheath's Avatar
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From: JOCO
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Has anyone delt with "Precut window tint" before? I've seen many reputable companies that offer tint laser cut for each window online that you just have to spray, lay, and squeegie and be done with it.

I'm thinking about doing it for my 88 xj. I figure it cant be too hard and for $30-$50 its worth a try.

If you used it 5+ years ago and it came out shotty I'd assume the quality of tint has improved since then?
Idk about pre cut but there are still crappy quality tints out there. Don't be fooled.
Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:12 PM
  #34219  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Can shims be used to lessen the pinion angle as in go on the front of the leaf pack. I dont need the angle so high until I do my sye
.
Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:21 PM
  #34220  
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From: JOCO
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

.
Shims go on the axle spring perch and thats what they are used for, to lessen the pinion angle. I've never heard of putting them in the front of the leaf pack...
Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:24 PM
  #34221  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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With an SYE the pinion needs to point at the output of the case. Without, it's not a big deal and your shackle will help change the angle too. What's it look like now? O Reilly has some 2* shims on the shelf, steel and 2.5" wide. I got my 4* ones from IRO with new center pins.
Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:54 PM
  #34222  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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I'm pretty sure he's talking about turning the shim around in order to make the pinion parallel to the transfer case output, in order to run a stock-style DS
Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:55 PM
  #34223  
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From: ks
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown


No problem. Keep in mind a worn out, broken spring is not the same as a new flat spring. If it is worn and busted, your spring rate will be very low due to the fatigued metal. Longer shackles and extensive articulation will likely finish them off faster in this situation.
Last question. Do you think if I order another leafpack and simply run it as is, it will hold its arch better? Perhaps adding the AAL then removing it after a few months wore the pack out. It seemed like the AAL was the same length as the leaf under the main, which put extra stress on the end of the main leaf.
Old Aug 6, 2013 | 10:53 PM
  #34224  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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If I replace my front yoke output seal on my t case will fluid pour out from it? The star washer, it's leaking now.
Old Aug 7, 2013 | 02:50 AM
  #34225  
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From: Vancouver
Year: 1998 and 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
Question What happens at 2500 rpm?

Anybody knows what happens at 2500 rpm? I have a wide band O2 sensor (in stock location) and digital gauge feeding my PCM and I noticed that the engine always runs slightly rich with or without load until it reaches 2500 rpm. When it reaches 2500, under med or little load it will run at 14.7 or slightly lean air/fuel ratio. Under hard load, it reverts back to slightly rich and WOT at any RPM it goes even richer. It's not speed related because it works in every gear.

Anybody knows what changes for this to happen? I would prefer if it always ran at 14.7 or slightly leaner except at WOT but when I program my sensor, it affects all RPMs and becomes too lean after 2500 RPM.
Old Aug 7, 2013 | 04:24 AM
  #34226  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by salad
I'm pretty sure he's talking about turning the shim around in order to make the pinion parallel to the transfer case output, in order to run a stock-style DS
Ding ding ding.

Yea. I know what a shim normally does and how it helps point the pinion up towards the TC but I don't have a SYE right now and my shackles is rotating it up.

So can I flip them to the front??? At least until I redo my rear end
Old Aug 7, 2013 | 05:54 AM
  #34227  
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From: JOCO
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Ding ding ding.

Yea. I know what a shim normally does and how it helps point the pinion up towards the TC but I don't have a SYE right now and my shackles is rotating it up.

So can I flip them to the front??? At least until I redo my rear end
Oh my bad. I don't see why you couldn't.
Old Aug 7, 2013 | 06:00 AM
  #34228  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
If I replace my front yoke output seal on my t case will fluid pour out from it? The star washer, it's leaking now.
Yeah you'll lose almost all of the fluid.
Old Aug 7, 2013 | 06:26 AM
  #34229  
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From: NY
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
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How involved is replacing engine mounts? Is it something I can do with an engine lift and basic hand tools, and does anyone have any tips or tricks to make it go as smoothly as possible?
Also, for a 97 xj with a 4.0, where should I purchase my mounts from?
Old Aug 7, 2013 | 06:33 AM
  #34230  
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by HINKLE83
How involved is replacing engine mounts? Is it something I can do with an engine lift and basic hand tools, and does anyone have any tips or tricks to make it go as smoothly as possible?
Also, for a 97 xj with a 4.0, where should I purchase my mounts from?
I didn't have and engine hoist so I used a forklift and did one side at a time.

Lots of people here like brown dog motor mounts.



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