If you took out the stock sensor in water neck, that's your problem. That one is for the ecu to read the temp.

 

I was thinking this as well so I've put it back in crossed the wires back together and now I'm reading like 4.7 volts on both wires. They both read ground when key is off. Still no spark.

 

I don't think. However IIRC a ZJ skid can be made to fit with a little modification.

Something to think about though on the 97+ XJ's with the plastic tank is that the stock skid is fairly week and if you come down on it hard enough to dent it it will still push the tank up just the same as if you didn't have one. The difference is that the skid will not let the tank pop back out. IMHO unless you put a heavy duty aftermarket skid on it you're wasting your time.

 

I agree, if you only play in mud you'll be fine with a stock skid, but for rocks I'd like the piece of mind with having an after market skid.

 

how do you know if your brake rotor is fully cast or composite? I need a new bearing and need to know to buy the right one.

 

i mainly do trails that have some mud and some rocks. i dont plan on rock crawling the jeep or taking through mod bogs though. im more worried about going down a trail and hitting a rock with my tank. thanks for the info though i wont rush to find one but i see one craigslist ill grab it or have the welding program at my school fab one.

 

i have a 1994 cherokee and the engine control fuse keeps blowing when i give it alot of gas. ITs happens everytime i accelerate too hard. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

In full-cast rotors the "hat" is the same material as the braking surface itself. It's pretty thick. This is what a new one looks like:



Composite rotors have a stamped steel "hat" with a cast iron braking surface attached. If you look at them it will be obvious that it's stamped metal - it's quite thin.



What actually matters is the stud depth. Pop off your rotor and see how long they are.

 

Today I spent the day removing my leaking radiator and replacing it with a Champion 3 core Aluminum Radiator and a three fan setup from Dirt Bound Offroad. Everything really well except the top plate on that goes on top of the radiator needed modification to fit properly.

Wiring was a cinch with the pre wired kit.

Works like a charm.

Fans when all three are running are rated are about 4200 cubic feet per minute. And less noisy that the one electric fan I removed.

Happy camper here.

 

Looks like there was indeed a casualty from jumping the truck. I have a popping sound every time I turn the steering wheel to the left. It doesn't ever do it turning right, but it does it every time as I start turning the wheel left. Wheel position doesn't matter. It seems louder and more forceful with the engine off, but it may be a trick of my mind due to the added noise. I can feel the 'pop' if I put one hand on the cowl or driver-side fender when I turn the wheel left. Nothing seems to be loose in the suspension.

I'm thinking it may be related to the steering shaft. Any ideas? I'm starting my drive back to Cleveland in the morning. If I don't pin it down by then, I'll just see if it breaks on the way home.

 

Did you jack up the front and wiggle the tires make sure the ball joints are good.

 

No, I didn't jack up the front and wiggle the tires to make sure the ball joints are good. They probably aren't, and I don't wanna know if that's the case lol

I'll put her up in the AM and see.

 

Be safe on the trip. Hope you find the issue

 

Tires are nice and tight. No wiggles in any direction. I'm just gonna GI and see what happens. The Manche has survived worse.

 

I had the same issue, I greased everything up and presto. Anyway, don't hesitate to txt me for help, if you pay some of the gas, I will come and help.