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Old May 17, 2010 | 03:36 PM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by xjoffroad
nothings wrong with a 242. if the year is correct I doubt he has a 242, it would be a 229 or something like that (cant remember the #) that's a piece of crap

edit: dang it Zachsxj beat me to it
Old May 17, 2010 | 03:40 PM
  #272  
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Cool

It is a 242, straight off the tag on the back of transfer case, So Its good then? Just doing the research It has a danna 44 in the rear, A power comfort trans button.

Last edited by 1987 new toy; May 17, 2010 at 03:43 PM. Reason: add new stuff
Old May 17, 2010 | 04:08 PM
  #273  
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Originally Posted by 1987 new toy
It is a 242, straight off the tag on the back of transfer case, So Its good then? Just doing the research It has a danna 44 in the rear, A power comfort trans button.
Lol, yes its good and that D44 rear is even better!
Old May 17, 2010 | 09:15 PM
  #274  
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I have a 2001 cherokee sport with the chrysler 8.25 rear axle and I was just wondering what the stock gear ratios are for this model, or if there's a way I could find out the would be good
Old May 17, 2010 | 09:19 PM
  #275  
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Originally Posted by 207XJ
I have a 2001 cherokee sport with the chrysler 8.25 rear axle and I was just wondering what the stock gear ratios are for this model, or if there's a way I could find out the would be good
there should be a metal tag on the rear axel with the gear ratio stamped on it.

if you have an Auto the ratio is most likely 3.55 whereas if its a 5spd its probably got 3.07 gears.
Old May 17, 2010 | 10:06 PM
  #276  
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I have an auto. I read earlier in this thread the d35 was a bad front axle to change the gears in and to change the axle, why is that?
Old May 17, 2010 | 10:08 PM
  #277  
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Originally Posted by 207XJ
I have an auto. I read earlier in this thread the d35 was a bad front axle to change the gears in and to change the axle, why is that?
the D35 is a rear axel and its really weak, snapping axel shafts or breaking other internal parts is pretty easy with a D35.
Old May 17, 2010 | 10:12 PM
  #278  
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Ah I must have misinterpreted. My xj has the d30 front axle then right?
Old May 17, 2010 | 10:40 PM
  #279  
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Default 1998 Sport cranks but wont start

I posted a thread about this but no one has replied to it yet.



Some days my 1998 Cherokee Sport would start and some it wont. Now it wont start at all.

I turn the key to the ignition position and the gauges don't work and I can not hear the fuel pump. Now, if I unplug the CSPS (crank shaft sensor) and try again, the pump comes on and the gauges work.

Im guessing I need to replace the CSPS but I would like someone that knows more than I to give me their opinion. Could it be anything else?

I don't have a lot of cash to "try" new parts so if anyone knows for sure what the problem is.... I would be grateful. The CSPS is about $180 for OEM. Half that for aftermarket. So Im told.
Old May 18, 2010 | 02:59 AM
  #280  
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Originally Posted by 1987 new toy
It is a 242, straight off the tag on the back of transfer case, So Its good then? Just doing the research It has a danna 44 in the rear, A power comfort trans button.
soooo lucky... D44 came only in 1987..
Old May 18, 2010 | 03:00 AM
  #281  
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Originally Posted by 207XJ
Ah I must have misinterpreted. My xj has the d30 front axle then right?
yes
Old May 18, 2010 | 03:04 AM
  #282  
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Originally Posted by BrianV
I posted a thread about this but no one has replied to it yet.



Some days my 1998 Cherokee Sport would start and some it wont. Now it wont start at all.

I turn the key to the ignition position and the gauges don't work and I can not hear the fuel pump. Now, if I unplug the CSPS (crank shaft sensor) and try again, the pump comes on and the gauges work.

Im guessing I need to replace the CSPS but I would like someone that knows more than I to give me their opinion. Could it be anything else?

I don't have a lot of cash to "try" new parts so if anyone knows for sure what the problem is.... I would be grateful. The CSPS is about $180 for OEM. Half that for aftermarket. So Im told.
If the gauges don't work then it has nothing to do with the CPS. At this point it could be: neutral safety switch; try to start in N.
Ignition switch; giggle with the key and check the antenna cable of the immobilizer, switch connector etc.
Batt + latch relay; swap with another relay.
Old May 18, 2010 | 06:17 AM
  #283  
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Originally Posted by fantic238
soooo lucky... D44 came only in 1987..
1987-1989
Old May 18, 2010 | 08:01 AM
  #284  
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HI guys, I think it is time for me to tackle the transmission fluid change.... I read a bit but can't find much info on manual transmission.

I have Haynes and Chilton and they recommend both different type oil. I read all about GLP5 (recommended by the Haynes) being bad and GLP3 (recommended by the Chilton) being better.
I am going o go by the recommendation from the Chilton RIGHT or WRONG ?

Location of fill plug. After studying 1 million pictures and 2 tutorials I think i have the BA10/5 transmission... I think I have located the fill plug because there is only one (even tough tutorials says there are 2 and one is the wrong one). I started removing the plug to check level and oil started pouring.... me think it was the wrong plug but it is the only one I can see... any idea ?

Oil. The little that I saw coming out was black with grey reflections and very thick looking. Is that a sign for something ?

thanks Sorry for the long list of questions
Bit of background (XJ 89 laredo 4.0L 200 000 miles)
Old May 18, 2010 | 08:16 AM
  #285  
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any oil that is 80W 90 is good.
Gearbox might be overfilled, and the filling plug is on the passenger side. With 200.000 miles the oil looks like you described, nothing abnormal.



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