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Mar 16, 2013 | 11:07 AM

#26506

XJGrason

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2010

Posts: 1,085

Likes: 3

From: Fountain Inn, SC

Year: 1988

Model: Comanche (MJ)

Engine: I6 4.0L

Quote:

Originally Posted by ehracing67

Is the one in an 87 MJ the same as an 89 XJ? I've got the one in the MJ I don't need.

not entirely sure, probably.

Mar 16, 2013 | 11:10 AM

#26507

NewKindOfClown

Moderator of Jeeps

Joined: Jul 2011

Posts: 21,029

Likes: 3

From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH

Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler

Engine: 4.0 I6

Quote:

Originally Posted by ehracing67

Is the one in an 87 MJ the same as an 89 XJ? I've got the one in the MJ I don't need.

Same.

Mar 16, 2013 | 12:13 PM

#26508

ehracing67

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2011

Posts: 1,090

Likes: 0

From: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania

Year: 1999

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!

When I get home I'll check it out.

Mar 16, 2013 | 01:28 PM

#26509

DieselD

CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 4,825

Likes: 2

From: Indianapolis

Year: '99 and '91

Model: Cherokee

Torque wrench:

Digital or click style?

I gotta get one to do this sye kit (among other things)

Mar 16, 2013 | 01:51 PM

#26510

wiggles

CF Veteran

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 9,897

Likes: 2

From: shawnee,ks

Year: 1993

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselD

Torque wrench:

Digital or click style?

I gotta get one to do this sye kit (among other things)

Click is nice because you dont have to watch it

Mar 16, 2013 | 02:49 PM

#26511

theyammieguy

Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2009

Posts: 791

Likes: 0

From: Houston Texas

Year: 1996

Model: Cherokee

Engine: I6

The coolant temp sensor on the back of the block, is that for the gauge or ecm?

Mar 16, 2013 | 02:50 PM

#26512

1976Mustang

CF Veteran

Joined: May 2012

Posts: 3,242

Likes: 2

From: Colorado

Year: 1992 Cherokee Sport

Engine: Bone-Stock 242

Quote:

Originally Posted by theyammieguy

The coolant temp sensor on the back of the block, is that for the gauge or ecm?

Gauge.

Mar 16, 2013 | 03:08 PM

#26513

theyammieguy

Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2009

Posts: 791

Likes: 0

From: Houston Texas

Year: 1996

Model: Cherokee

Engine: I6

Thanks, that means I don't need a new one.

Mar 16, 2013 | 03:20 PM

#26514

sycoglitch

CF Veteran

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 12,692

Likes: 6

From: Mercer County, NJ

Year: 2001

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0L I6 HO

Question. I've read about removing the weatherstripping on the back of the hood to aid in cooler. Just curious if this actually works.

Mar 16, 2013 | 05:45 PM

#26515

RatchetMaster10

CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 2,857

Likes: 1

From: Raymore, Mo

Year: 1995

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselD

Torque wrench:

Digital or click style?

I gotta get one to do this sye kit (among other things)

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiggles

Click is nice because you dont have to watch it

Go digital, I highly suggest snap on. There digital one vibrates and emits a beep when you reach torque. It can do inlbs, ftlbs, and newton meters, and also torque to.angle. all in one wrench that you dont have to watch.

Mar 16, 2013 | 05:46 PM

#26516

RatchetMaster10

CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 2,857

Likes: 1

From: Raymore, Mo

Year: 1995

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Question. I've read about removing the weatherstripping on the back of the hood to aid in cooler. Just curious if this actually works.

Just raise the hood using washers on the hood to hinge mounting bolts. It gave me about a 10°F difference

Mar 16, 2013 | 06:36 PM

#26517

sycoglitch

CF Veteran

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 12,692

Likes: 6

From: Mercer County, NJ

Year: 2001

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0L I6 HO

Quote:

Originally Posted by RatchetMaster10

Just raise the hood using washers on the hood to hinge mounting bolts. It gave me about a 10°F difference

I'm not looking to do it. My engine stays cool. I was curious if this actually worked, removing the mollding

Mar 16, 2013 | 06:38 PM

#26518

straightsixjeep

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2012

Posts: 1,539

Likes: 0

From: ks

Year: 1998

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

I changing the 3 u-joints in my front driveshaft and want to replace/rebuild the cv centering ball. Am I best to spend $70 and get a whole new assembly from Oreilly, or go to napa and get the rebuild kit for $50? Heres the kit - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...617_0157738947 If it not hard to rebuild it I can do that tonight since its in stock, otherwise the whole assembly takes a few days to get.

Mar 16, 2013 | 06:42 PM

#26519

ehracing67

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2011

Posts: 1,090

Likes: 0

From: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania

Year: 1999

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Hard to find them intact.

Went to look at the shroud on the MJ. I made the mistake of touching it. It fell right apart.

Mar 16, 2013 | 06:42 PM

#26520

Houston Kid

Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2012

Posts: 583

Likes: 0

From: Clear Lake, TX

Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

If your AC compressor bearing is going out will you get a high pitch sound from it even if it is not on? It sounds like the bearings in the compressor are going out. I have a brand new alternator and water pump so it is not coming from those. The alternator was making a similar sound when it was going out.

For those who will suggest tighten the belt, that is not the issue. It is the same pitch noise if the AC is on or not. The clutch engages no problem and the AC works fine.

My guess is the bearings. Anyone know if these can be changed by pulling the pully off and replacing it or just gonna need a new compressor?

Last edited by Houston Kid; Mar 16, 2013 at 07:02 PM.