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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:16 PM
  #23536  
DESERTXJ206's Avatar
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Our brakes have an auto adjuster thing. I think you just pump the brakes to get it to correct, but wait for someone more knowledgeable on the topic.
In the front? I know the rear drums have the adjuster but i didnt touch the rears. Only did the fronts because they were dragging bad. I will be doing the rrars this weekend.
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:18 PM
  #23537  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by 1976Mustang
Can anyone recommend a sturdy but cheap CB antenna? This Radioshack one i have is driving me insane, i have to rebuilt it once a month or it falls off. It's currently mounted on the side of my rear bumper.
I've had 4ft, 3ft, and now a 2ft Firestik fiberglass, and I have no complaints. Around $30.
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:28 PM
  #23538  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Just did the rotors and pads on my wifes 88 xj and now they seem to not stop at all compared to when they we old brakes. The old rotors were chewed up very bad and the inside pads had no pad left, it was metal on metal and the outside pad had about 25% left.

Used all new parts and hardwear, not they seem to not stop. Also the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor when trying to stop. (it did that before the brake swap).

Any info.
Did you clean the new rotors with brake cleaner to remove the machining oil?

Google "Breaking in brake pads"
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:38 PM
  #23539  
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From: West Georgia
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
Im about to do the front inner fender seam cut and fold so it doesnt sipe my tires any more. Should I cut and fold it or just beat it over without cutting slits?
You can also grind it down.
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:50 PM
  #23540  
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From: West Georgia
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by Crustychuck
I have two questions

The first is, i have about 2-3" of up and down play in my steering wheel column, and i am hoping that this is simply something i can tighten... the base of the column is solid, and the steering wheel will still adjust up and down.

Second, i am running 33" tires with 4.88 gears. Would going to a larger tire actually save me gas mileage?
I suspect you have tilt steering. If so, you have a good bit of work on your hand and it is something you can tighten up. You just have to get to it and getting to it is the problem. There are a few videos on it on U tube.

On the other: bigger tires usually means higher gas milleage.
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #23541  
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From: West Georgia
Year: 1987
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Just did the rotors and pads on my wifes 88 xj and now they seem to not stop at all compared to when they we old brakes. The old rotors were chewed up very bad and the inside pads had no pad left, it was metal on metal and the outside pad had about 25% left.

Used all new parts and hardwear, not they seem to not stop. Also the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor when trying to stop. (it did that before the brake swap).

Any info.

Could be brake line has air in it or you may have problems with your master cylinder. I would bleed the brakes, check the lines for leaks/cracks/open valve and last but least check master cylinder and connects. Top off brake fluid and check the lines with someone pressing the brake peddle. You can do it!
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #23542  
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From: ks
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by Nasty
You can also grind it down.
That seam has pinch welds, if you just grind it down that will really affect the structure of that portion of the unibody.
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:05 PM
  #23543  
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From: Houston Texas
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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Are there any replacement speedo gears for the XJ. According to GPS, my speedo is now 5mph slow. I like mine to be as accurate as possible.
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #23544  
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
That seam has pinch welds, if you just grind it down that will really affect the structure of that portion of the unibody.
Depends on how far you grind it down. I cut the bottom little piece completely off, ground the rest, and reinstalled the plastic molding. No problems: even on the expressway at eighty.
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:16 PM
  #23545  
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Originally Posted by theyammieguy
Are there any replacement speedo gears for the XJ. According to GPS, my speedo is now 5mph slow. I like mine to be as accurate as possible.
Yep. EBay has lots, but be sure to buy the right one. Number of teeth and long or short should be in the description. I don't recall what exactly we need.
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:18 PM
  #23546  
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Originally Posted by Nasty
Depends on how far you grind it down. I cut the bottom little piece completely off, ground the rest, and reinstalled the plastic molding. No problems: even on the expressway at eighty.
Did you take any pics? If not no problem. I want to rig my plastic splash shields up but I no longer have flares. I want to put the stock flares back on but the brackets have a few broke bolts. I went to tap the bolts out but by the time the bolt/stud was out the brackets were severely tweaked. Might just make the lawn edging flares and use the bolts that hold them on to help secure the splash shields. As far as the seam, Im just going to make relief cuts then hammer it down.
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:18 PM
  #23547  
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Yep. EBay has lots, but be sure to buy the right one. Number of teeth and long or short should be in the description. I don't recall what exactly we need.
Presto fundido:

http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowle...article-46.htm
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:19 PM
  #23548  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Yep. EBay has lots, but be sure to buy the right one. Number of teeth and long or short should be in the description. I don't recall what exactly we need.

Example for a NP231 with 3.55s and 33s.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:21 PM
  #23549  
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Do you simply remove the hold down bolt, pull out the stock gear, then pop the new one in?
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:36 PM
  #23550  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206

In the front? I know the rear drums have the adjuster but i didnt touch the rears. Only did the fronts because they were dragging bad. I will be doing the rrars this weekend.
If you did the rotors and pads you'll need to bed the new pads in. Meaning drive an lightly press brake pad. It'll smell like *** and burning but its the transfer of material and initial grooving of the rotors. Might be your issue. Google bedding in rotors



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