Loose connection maybe or switch going bad

 

Cats are new(ish) and I just finished cleaning and reattaching the exhaust. I took out the mount and noticed it was oil-saturated (old leak, fixed about 20k ago). I'm hoping its the mounts and not something more expensive. Am I just an idiot for hoping that's the case?

 

No if its the trans mount it will cause the exhaust to tap the cross member and knock

 

my jeep used to make the same sounds....but i bought a high flow cat and when i put it on i tightened the hell outta the exhaust bolts above the crossmember....no more weird sounds...so id say tighten them and possibly throw on a new gasket.

 

what would cause my 4wd selector rod to get one notch off? when it shows its in 2wd its in part time 4hi....and when it shows im in 4neutral im in 4low...etc......what would cause that?
because of this....my jeep will no longer go into 2wd....my selector rod wont push down any farther....could it just have jumped a tooth or something on the transfer case?

 

Nope, underneath the Jeep there's an adjusting bolt in the linkage between the handle and the selector lever on the transfer case itself. Can get loose and screw things up. Move it to 4L, loosen the adjuster, move the handle back into the 4L position, and tighten it up.

 

ok thanks man.....ill do that tomorrow when its not raining

 

My next thing to tackle on my jeep is the rear drum brakes on the 8.25. First off, I have to fully extend my e-brake to get it to catch. I know theres an adjuster, do I just tighten the main nut? Also, whem coming to a stop at low speeds I hear a rubbing sounds coming for the passenger rear side (passenger rear drum) Could the drum be out of round? Can I replace only the drums and leave the shoes and springs alone?

 

My passenger side drum does the same thing lol. Pretty sure it's just out of adjustment, auto adjustors are gone (literally - they rusted away) and the brake was fine for a month or so after I put it back last time. Probably just that... adjustment and a spray of brake cleaner can go a long way.

If you're in there don't be shy with some of the brake grease or high-temp synthetic bearing stuff. A few dabs under where the shoes drag across the mounting bracket may help

 

Thank you Salad. My jeep actually did this when I first bought it. After hosing it with brake cleaner it went away. Then starting a few weeks ago my auto locker kept trying to unlock. I found out the passenger rear drum was rubbing so I adjusted the star wheel until the shoes didnt catch the wheel. It brakes pretty good but Id like to get this figured out. Il pull the drums again tomorrow and possibly apply some grease.
Also need to replace the e-brake cable. Right where it goes into the back of the drum assembly it split.

 

If I'm not seeing any indication lights when im in 4h or 4l in my 2000 xj should I assume the bulbs are bad? Or could something else have an effect on them not coming on? The case is engaging and disengaging as it should. No indicator lights with key to the on position either.

I assume the switch is somewhere near the tc linkage. If anyone knows exactly where and wants to save me some time looking that'd be sweet. I'm just going to jump the switch and see if the bulb is good. Anywhere else I should check?

 

I have been reading on here about the death wobble installed new steering stabilizer and cured it for most part i still get tire shake from 57 to 70 then it goes away and its intermitten one second it does it then it comes back a second later looking for help on this one checked for loosness everything seems tight

 

Check out the link in my signature. It should provide some insight.

 

Np. If your brakes are like mine they could probably use disassembly, wire brushing, and new hardware too lol. Spring or summer I'm going to discs so not terribly concerned.

The switch fails more often than the bulbs actually. It is located on the top of the transfer case on the passenger side, near the linkage and the front drive shaft. Before replacing anything try jumping the pins on the switch's connector. If lights come on, then the switch is bad. If not, bad wiring or bad bulb. Can also inspect for frayed wiring while you're down there.

onlyinajeep726's linked PDF is spot on. To summarize, bad steering stabilizers have nothing to do with death wobble. The cause can be many things ranging from toast bushings, loose bolts, bad tie rod ends, and unbalanced tires.

 

alright thanks time to play in the rain