Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 1
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,522
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,242
Likes: 2
From: Colorado
Year: 1992 Cherokee Sport
Engine: Bone-Stock 242
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: PDX
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Ok here it is i have given up after days of searching and testing here is what i have going on...
96 xj 4.0L I had a check engine light on for forever, finally got around to giving her a tune up (she had been sitting basically for the better part of the year) Plugs, wires, air, oil, radiator flush, injector cleaner in the tank, O2 sensors, and a thermostat which led to my first issue there was no gasket in the thermostat box
got to the point to putting her all back together at about 1am half way in and half way out of my garage at the apartment i live at waited until 4am took a chance left it in the fire lane got back out there at 730am to check in before the parts store opened and she was gone, towed ... weaksauce ... got her back 2 days later had to put the thermostat on and fill up with coolant right there in the tow yard (lol good story for the grandkids) she fired right up and off i went ran good, still had one problem that had been preexisting remaining...when i put my foot on the floor she bogged down almost as though she wasnt getting enough fuel or maybe too much (this only happened when i was in gear driving and floored it, picture getting on the freeway and accelerating to speed in 3rd i could only use about 7/8 of my gas pedal) cleared the codes went to fire her back up and she ran like ****. Let it run for a minute like crap just to see if the memory caught back up never did so i killed her, i proceeded to wait for about 5 minutes for the thing to start back up had to really milk the throttle home, toe heel type driving always had to have the gas down a bit. waited a couple days started her up and still not running right new CEL checked the codes said i was running lean (i dont remember the number) drove her home and she died, i had noticed an exhaust leak in the back of the engine compartment before she died, this led me to some kind of vacuum issue. I have since replaced the intake/exhaust manifold gasket, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned injectors and replaced o rings, motor mounts (i was already there), checked the vacuum lines (to the best of my ability im not sold i have a vacuum leak elsewhere just thought the blown gasket could be the cause). So here is where i am today...When i turn the key i hear the fuel pump but im not reading any pressure or getting any gas on my hand at the fuel rail when i release the pressure. She will crank and be RIGHT on the verge of starting if i shoot some throttle body cleaner into the throttle body directly she will fire and as long as i keep adding it in i can rev the engine out but once i stop even if i am playing with the throttle she dies. What else should i be testing/checking. The fuel pump and the CPS are both less than 4 years old (though both are aftermarket from NAPA)
All help is appreciated, i am pretty handy with a wrench just not with anything diagnostic apparently
96 xj 4.0L I had a check engine light on for forever, finally got around to giving her a tune up (she had been sitting basically for the better part of the year) Plugs, wires, air, oil, radiator flush, injector cleaner in the tank, O2 sensors, and a thermostat which led to my first issue there was no gasket in the thermostat box
got to the point to putting her all back together at about 1am half way in and half way out of my garage at the apartment i live at waited until 4am took a chance left it in the fire lane got back out there at 730am to check in before the parts store opened and she was gone, towed ... weaksauce ... got her back 2 days later had to put the thermostat on and fill up with coolant right there in the tow yard (lol good story for the grandkids) she fired right up and off i went ran good, still had one problem that had been preexisting remaining...when i put my foot on the floor she bogged down almost as though she wasnt getting enough fuel or maybe too much (this only happened when i was in gear driving and floored it, picture getting on the freeway and accelerating to speed in 3rd i could only use about 7/8 of my gas pedal) cleared the codes went to fire her back up and she ran like ****. Let it run for a minute like crap just to see if the memory caught back up never did so i killed her, i proceeded to wait for about 5 minutes for the thing to start back up had to really milk the throttle home, toe heel type driving always had to have the gas down a bit. waited a couple days started her up and still not running right new CEL checked the codes said i was running lean (i dont remember the number) drove her home and she died, i had noticed an exhaust leak in the back of the engine compartment before she died, this led me to some kind of vacuum issue. I have since replaced the intake/exhaust manifold gasket, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned injectors and replaced o rings, motor mounts (i was already there), checked the vacuum lines (to the best of my ability im not sold i have a vacuum leak elsewhere just thought the blown gasket could be the cause). So here is where i am today...When i turn the key i hear the fuel pump but im not reading any pressure or getting any gas on my hand at the fuel rail when i release the pressure. She will crank and be RIGHT on the verge of starting if i shoot some throttle body cleaner into the throttle body directly she will fire and as long as i keep adding it in i can rev the engine out but once i stop even if i am playing with the throttle she dies. What else should i be testing/checking. The fuel pump and the CPS are both less than 4 years old (though both are aftermarket from NAPA) All help is appreciated, i am pretty handy with a wrench just not with anything diagnostic apparently
So how does a Jeep run with 0 fuel pressure, easy your pump begins to unhook itself but not to the point of separating completely...
Thanks to those who put their input in!!
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Qld Australia
Year: 1998 "Sport" White Wagon
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6cyl
Hello! Can You Please Help? My Jeep Cherokee Sport 6cyl 1998. Requires the Power Steering Fluid to be Topped Up TOO Often & When I Drive the Vehicle It appears the Transmission Stick is??? Spraying Out Onto the Rear Wall & L/Side ( same Side as the Stick) also Onto the Motor & Parts.. It drips onto the Exhaust Pipe! & smoke comes out under the Bonnet ( Hood) of the Vehicle when I stop.. I Placed a Piece of Paper Under to try Locate where the Drips are Coming From. The Mechanic said Repaired the Transmission Cooler Hose... Thanking You! pisces3737 (Australia) 7.06pm. 29/3/13. Check Guage Still ON..the Dash! from December & the Oil Pressure Switch was Replaced last Month...
Last edited by pisces3737; Mar 29, 2013 at 04:11 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Hello! Can You Please Help? My Jeep Cherokee Sport 6cyl 1998. Requires the Power Steering Fluid to be Topped Up TOO Often & When I Drive the Vehicle It appears the Transmission Stick is??? Spraying Out Onto the Rear Wall & L/Side ( same Side as the Stick) also Onto the Motor & Parts.. It drips onto the Exhaust Pipe! & smoke comes out under the Bonnet ( Hood) of the Vehicle when I stop.. I Placed a Piece of Paper Under to try Locate where the Drips are Coming From. The Mechanic said Repaired the Transmission Cooler Hose... Thanking You! pisces3737 (Australia) 7.06pm. 29/3/13. Check Guage Still ON..the Dash! from December & the Oil Pressure Switch was Replaced last Month...
The power steering fluid should be an easy fix. There's only 2 hoses that could be leaking. Both go from the pump to the gear box. I'd guess that you either have a leak in the sector shaft seal or in the high pressure hose.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 407
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, Md
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
I there any difference between disk brake wheel studs and drum brake wheel studs? I am about to buy longer ones for the rear and I found a set that are the length I need, the correct knurl, and thread size but they say fits most disk brake applications. I don't feel like there would be a difference as long as the knurl size is correct but just want to make sure.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
From: Pinehurst
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: H.O. 4.0L I6
Ha! I had a jeep friend just tell me "if it aint broke it aint a jeep" and that jeep stands for just exchange every part haha im starting to believe it but that made me laugh
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,387
Likes: 1
From: The Florida State University
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 L
Are you talking about the door pins? Order them from here. Dealer doesn't carry them anymore (atleast down here).
Here's for the whole check arm for the front: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/door-check-55235571ab.html
And here's for the pins: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/pin-che...5012900ab.html
Here's for the whole check arm for the front: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/door-check-55235571ab.html
And here's for the pins: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/pin-che...5012900ab.html
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,387
Likes: 1
From: The Florida State University
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 L
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,387
Likes: 1
From: The Florida State University
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 L
No, no and no. Get a set of these 04669938. People sell 'em on here all the time. They are injectors out of a 90's dodge neon. Buy the rebuild kits and do it yourself. There are write-ups all over the place how to do it. In total, you should have $80 (probably less) into them with the rebuilds.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
From: Pinehurst
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: H.O. 4.0L I6
I dont really have the time to rebuild them I work 2 jobs plus the shop was charging 300 just to clean the ones in there if I can change them for 160 myself I didnt figure that was too bad plus we dont have junk yards out here the closest is 45 mins