Should work. Pull the positives (wires) that go to the bumper and re route them to the roof. Use another ground you don't need to pull that one too. Find a spot somewhere on the body where you can screw on the grounds.

 

After searching extensively, I've answered a lot of my questions, but a few have popped up that I would like some assistance on, thanks in advance!

I'm running a treatment of Seafoam through my gas tank to clean up my engine a bit and hopefully get a little better mileage. I have 2 questions about this. First, should I do more than one treatment, or does one usually do the trick? Secondly, after I run the tank out, I intend to change the fuel filter as it doesn't look like it's been done in a while, is this worth it? It's easy enough to do since I have a 96 and I can't imagine it would be a bad thing, just looking for reassurance I guess...

I am also less than 1000 miles from my first oil change since buying it and I intend to do a pre-oil change treatment with Seafoam as well, how long before the oil change should I put it into the engine? I'm intending on switching over to the Mobil High mileage as I'll be doing it myself, as I've read that it has the higher zinc content required for the engine, should I go with the conventional or the synthetic? As of now I have 0 oil leaks and am a bit concerned that if I go synthetic it may open up some undetected bad spots in the gaskets... Sorry if this is a bit much but I need the help, thanks!

 

One is more than sufficient. Changing the filter is a good idea especially after using the seafoam that might free some stuck particles in it.
Regarding the oil, the 4.0 isn't a multivalve turbo engine, when it was first designed the sinthetic oils didn't exist. Go with mineral.

 

You never mentioned, do hazards operate?
Use the meter to check continuity in the bulbs first there can be a broken filament that cannot be seen. Set the meter to produce a sound(it usually has a horn icon) place one probe on the base of the bulb, the other on the side(metal). If it tones bulb is good. Turn signal; use the meter to check volts by put black probe to metal(ground) red probe to socket if circuit is good you'll read approx. 12 volts DC if not there is a break in the circuit. Hope this helps.

 

I definately agree with fantic one is enough.

I will say this from personal experiance I acidentally bought some combination mineral and synthetic not even full synthetic. Worst FAIL ever Next oil change cam ealier and back to high millage mineral and she loves it so dearly. Her tone even changed a little. I work 35-50 mins depending on traffic from my house to include HIGHWAY DRIVING (gets the oil nice and high) I put it in right before i leave work right into filler hole and drover her home and changed the oil. Also was checking the valve cover and lifters and what not that day of course not super shiney but she was clean. (160,000).

AS far as fuel filter i did mine a few months back awesome! I smelled bad for a couple of days (don't ask) but when took it out you couldn't even blow air through it so its not a bad thing to do.

 

97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 6cy 4.0l***

Problems-Fire coming out of the intake...
-Floods itself
-Wastes alot of gas -6 mpg
-Every time i accelerate it dies..
-Gas in the vacuum line from the regulator
-Found mud in the pump...filters....and fuel pressure regulator

Fixed-Fuel Filter and pump
-Fuel Injectors are working(squirting consistently)
-Cleaned Gas Container
-New Spark Plugs,Wires,Distributor,cap, and ignition coil

Right now it is turning on but rough idle and accelerating but dieing...i thought it could be the fuel pressure regulator because when it dies i relieve the fuel pressure from the rail and it works kinda alright. Help me before i waste more money on this car...

 

How many miles does it have on it? To me it sounds like a timing chain/cam/valve train issue. JMO
Gas in the vacuum line from the regulator sounds like a ruptured diaphragm in the regulator. This could cause an over-rich condition that could cause the flooding issues, and the bad mileage . IMO

And Welcome to CF!

Dan

 

it has 266,xxx miles on it..i also changed the timing chain because it was kinda loose but timed it like 8 times by diff mechanics..it all works fine but then starts to mess around. I can also hear a clicking sound from the head...it goes faster with the speed of the car. Im thinking its the darn regulator..it smells like raw gas when i try to turn it on too.

 

By your statement the timing chain marks on the gears might still be off a little. IMO
That clicking sound could be the lifters sticking, or worn rockers, or the cam lobes are worn and there is some slack in the valve-train. That's a lot of miles. How long have you owned it?
Dan

 

Ive had it for almost 6 months and it all started with a lil hesitation at first and now this...I CLEARLY REMEMBER THE MECHANIC CHANGING THE TIMING CHAIN...i saw him do this....Two gears...one on top left and one bottom center. Top gear point was pointing northwest and so was the bottom gear. To my understanding they should be pointing to each other. He moved the top left gear directly pointing to the bottom gear so both would be aligned. I think he messed up the camshaft but idk......it was working till now...

 

He's a professional/certified mechanic?

 

Well he was until he lost his title by someone suing him...but yeah idk what it could be...should i have the gears changed to what they were before?

 

With the #1 cylinder at TDC the index marks on the Cam gear and the Crank gear should be directly opposite each other, and you should be able to hold a straight edge through the Cam center-line, the Crank center-line, and both index marks. There's a pic and procedure for checking this in the manual, but I don't have my scanner.

 

Darn...ok the index points were moved to point to each other...he moved the top one to align the bottom one. When he did this i had to align the distributor because it would pop and fart. When i fixed the timing the first time it work for almost one week.

 

Did you understand that the marks are supposed to be directly opposite each other? Meaning the Cam gear mark should be on the bottom towards the crank gear, and the Crank gear mark should be at the top towards the Cam gear. Did I make that clear or not?