Both my front left and rear left signals do not work. I replaced bulbs and checked fuses and still no luck. I have a voltage meter can someone tell me how to check the circuit?

 

My belt tensioner wobbles when the engine is started. Can I tighten it without removing radiator and fan.

 

15 mm end wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt

 

Make sure bulb are 2 terminal not 1 also they will not work if rear ones are not right as well. As far as i know.

Definately with out removing radiator dont know your xact set will check hold please.

EDIT : Need your year make and model i will get you pic of wiring diagram.

 

they dont look bad at all...and i dont air down, seing as how i go to the pine barrens which is alot of trail riding, and the only time airing down woudl help would be in deep really soft sand, which i learned to avoid w/ 235s and an open rear end. thanks for the pic...it wont look to bad on some black or chrome soft 8s w/ a 2 inch BB....another opinion question then, chrome, or black on this beast? black is a standard...but its got chrome mirrors, chrome handles, chrome grille, and chrome windshield surround...i dont think chrome would look that bad

 

just wanted to know your thoughts on the high flow oil pump. im going to replace my rear main and wanted to replace the pump while im in there and get rid of all the sludge. i know theres alot since i replaced my valve cover gasket last week and found over half an inch of sludge covering the head. so my auto zone has both and the high flow is cheaper. should i spring for the high flow or just get a regular one? wyn, the xj guy at auto zone said it will flow 20% more oil but no increase the oil pressure. should there be any concerns using the higher flowing oil pump? thanks.

 

Ok, so lately i have noticed that sometimes my (auto transmission) jeep acts as if it is not completely "engaged" in drive. The only way i know to describe it is like this; from a complete stop, when i hit the gas the engine will rev like i am in neutral but not accelerate. After a second or two it will click/thump (like it just went into drive) and then it will drive normal. What is this?

 

Check the grounds!! There is a node screwed to the body behind the left tail light that tends to rust.

 

Honestly, i've read many threads on here that talked about the failure of these high flow pumps, but i don't know if it is due to a bad mounting or defected surface tolerances. Apart from the sludge, how is your oil pressure at idle and cruise?

 

Low fluid pressure prolly because of a worn pump. Someone has had some luck by flushing and filter. Chech the fluid level.

 

is there a thread with pictures of jeeps showing off their lights? i'm trying to get some ideas on where to put them and what to get...

any help is appreciated.
thanks

 

Check your fluid level for sure, If low add some and go from there. Mine was horrible as soon as i added fluid it was like i changed the whole tranny. it kept looseing fluid so i traced lined found a leak fixed a leak as she has run like a champ ever since.

X2

 

Hi, learn to search in the forum. It took me 4.7 seconds to find this page:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/search...earchid=930531

 

The SES light came on in my kids 1997 Cherokee Sport the other day. Last evening I tried the "Key Trick" for OBDII trucks listed here and it didn't quite work. The digital odometer counted from 111111 to 999999 as described (and the analog gauges flickered back and forth), but when this process was complete the digital odometer display immediately began displaying the actual miles instead of displaying any codes.

The SES light didn't blink out any codes either.

Tried with the e-brake applied and released. Made no difference.

Am I doing something wrong?

 

Probably not, if you have followed the instructions carefully. Try to disconnect/reconnect the battery, electronics is wierd.