Originally Posted by matt82

i changed my CPS and the jeep still missing and I mean BAD still has no power idk what to check now

Originally Posted by mtparker97

heres the pics of what i ripped a little and what was holding the pan in place or rather giving resistance. sorry been gone all day long so got nothing done today. you can see on the close up the bottom of it is torn. it feels like just a little foam gasket probably just to keep oil from leaking into the bell housing im assuming.

Originally Posted by Allusion

i just finished my long pain in the a$$ project of a rc 4.5 lift on a 96 xj. i test drove it for the first time tonight and found a MAJOR problem. or so i think it is. the stearing wheel, is no longer straight but almost a 1/4 turn to the right. and i have about a 1/2 turn worth of play in it now.
has any one ever used those PS2 stearing wheels? where you turn it about a 1/4 turn and it does nothing and like 1/8 of a turn more and its full turn radius?.. its almost like that.
would anyone know how to fix this?

Originally Posted by tylera123

i really want to get more power in my jeep somehow. is there any ways to tweak something already existing in my 89 jeep cherokee limited, or do i have to buy something?and if so,what should i buy and from where

Originally Posted by TruckD

Anybody know how i can get the color back in the rubber around my windshield?

Originally Posted by darkfalcon9112

Good man.

Phil when i took mine off i wasnt sure what i was doing at first the way i did it though and worked like a champ. (P.s. thought i had blow by too before this.) ran gas through rear ccv orafice attached to valve over and through tube while off jeep off course. Then UnBolted what i thought was some kind of valve then found out that its the ccv orafice on the Intake manifold. I thought it was a valve when in fact it is just a calculated orafice . So cleaned it nice and slow.... p.s. Its a hole straight through on mine and prob yours so skinny screw driver or scribe work wonders then ran cleaner through it. HOLY CRUD when i put it back on it was like a brand new J**P. I did eventually hang my head low and buy the ccv on the valve cover and tube from dealer and that even made it better that back tube is really important also my gas milage went up after that and response.

If you have any questions regarding this anyone just ask me i will take it off and take pictures or show in tech breakdown what it is!

Originally Posted by fantic238

that's just an antirattle. Oil pan must be pulled straight. The rear main seal leaks in the bell housing behind the plate. Check the oil pan edge to be perfectly straight if you used a screwdriver to pry it. If it is bent it will leak, especially in the front corners. Use a ton of rtv when you put it back on together with a new gasket.
Did you get the double lip seal?
lower half is easy, upper half takes some more time.
DON'T SCAR THE CRANKSHAFT...

Originally Posted by fantic238

does it idle?

Originally Posted by 91xj

ok. im in the process of installing a iron rock offroad 6.5 inch kit. the bolts that hold the crossmember to the unibody called for 50 ft. lbs. when i was tightening one of them it stripped out at about 40 ft. lbs. im wondering if the threaded portion is a nut inside the frame rail, or a threaded plate. i need to know if i can drill out the threads and re tap it one size bigger or if i need to weld a nut up in there.

Originally Posted by matt82

yea but idles rough and runs worse

Originally Posted by joshhill

Would love to see pics and see if I need to clean this out on my rig.

Originally Posted by fantic238

Matt u r numba 5..

Originally Posted by darkfalcon9112

Joshhill Here is the tech page I replaced Numba 3 and 2 with brand new from a guy that buys from the dealer with those part numbas cleaned numba 4 and 1 with gas. Number 5 was the one that was clogged shut with carbon. It was really bad like someone stuck a bb covered in superglue and carbon deposits down there.

P.S. if you would like a actually picture i can take one and post it.



x2 Fantic.