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Old 05-10-2010, 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ol"blue
If you had to "align the distributor" then something is off.
index the distributor correctly.
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 1truckdriver
I have a 1990, 4.0, standard trans base model, I bought it with 200,000 miles on it. it ran fine when I bought it, but later it started having problems starting when cold. Sometimes it would start fine, others it would take quite a few cranks to start. also sometimes it would not start in the morning when it was cold or wet outside, but I would come home later and it would start fine.
5 months ago I changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter and ran BG44k through the system. I thought there would be a big difference, but no, there was not. I also seamed to notice that also there was a hesitation problem when I stomped the gas, that was there when it was cold or hot. I changed the temp sensor to see if the problem was in the computer, but that failed. Now the car wont start at all and I was debating on changing the O2 sensor or the thottle position sensor, but before I spend 59.00 or 89.00 I need to know if im going in the right direction.
I tried the key trick to get the code info but I did not get that to work. Is the OBD1 in the 90 cherokee? I tried with the e brake on and off, the on, off, on, off, on in 5 sec and got nothing. I would like to fix it myself, but I dont want to spend money on things that dont need replacing. Or should I just tace it to a shop?
It's a renix, pre OBD, no codes no CEL. Do you have spark? If no replace the CPS.
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by muddkiller
ok put the new regulator and it turns on for just a while but then stumbles and still has gas in the vacuum line. I took of the fuel rail with the fuel injectors and only 1 out of 6 sprays..the rest squirt..(dont drip) but squirt. I dont know if thats the problem for the misfires, loss of power, and dying when accelerating, and rough idle. Can anyone help me? Can i clean them at home?
Do this: jumper the fuel pump and bleed the fuel rail by keeping the nozzle open until you have only fuel coming out of it. If this doesn't fix it then you need to replace ALL injectors that are clogged with some of that mud that came from the tank. Was this vehicle flooded?
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by mbrand
I hope someone here can help me? I have a 96 Cherokee Classic with a 4.0 L 6 cyl. inline engine. I have had the truck for about 2 years and love it's reliability and ruggedness. However I have noticed that whenever I am looking for a "stock" part from any parts warehouse that the parts never seem to fit/work. Is there a another year for this Jeep that is very similiar to the 96? Also is there a way I can identify the exact engine year that is in the truck? Any help with this would be much appreciated. Thanks
Probably you have a 95 or before engine. Take a picture of it, throttle body and manifold and post it here.
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by cob24
Ok I was wondering about switching to warn locking hubs. What would be required of me to do this and is there any benefit. Ive heard that a lot of people mess up there hubs quite often. I found this link

http://www.gowarn.com/PartLists.aspx?plID=4583

Is this all i would need and would it work or not?
I've had them on a diesel cherokee. They are very expensive and not so strong. The only benefit is that you can disconnect the front axle shafts and save some fuel. Personally i think that when you have a rig with mud 33s and all the rest the little fuel that you can save is neglectable, especially if you drive not that much of miles and you use the rig in off-road.
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jeepin it real
i have a 99 chrysler 8.1/4 out of my standard jeep with 309 gear ratio and 29 splines i instaled a locker and wrecked the jeep keept it for parts . i wanted to know if i could put it in my 97 8.1/4 with 27 splines if i take locker and axle shafts from the 99 to avoid gear change in rear end. now ive read that the axle shafts have diff size diamiter, so if i get axle bearings for the 29 splin and put it in the 27 spline axle it should work right because the axle tube i.d. is the same??????????????????????
should be the same.
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Gairloch
I have a '98 XJ that I plan to gift with some new leaf spring packs as the current ones are shot. When I replaced the rear shocks I had 3 of the 4 top bolts break off and the passenger lower shock stud threads break off. I would like to avoid another 2 hour job turning into a weekend project if possible so I'm wondering what the typical challenges are when replacing leaf springs and what the best ways to overcome them are.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Probably you will experience the seized front leaf bolts that are common to be a PITA to take out. Only thing you can do before switching to the bad manners is to spray 1 week of PB blaster or similiar. Usually two things can happen: welded nut in the unibody rail breaks off and turns together with the bolt, and bolt turns together with the bushing sleeve.
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Old 05-10-2010, 01:48 PM
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Hello im new to this forum , this seems like the place that can answers my questions. Im on the never ending journey to find the plug for my fog light switch. Its not the switch it self , its the plug or wiring harness that connects to the switch. Wondering where i can get one of those or if its possible.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jpk543
Hello im new to this forum , this seems like the place that can answers my questions. Im on the never ending journey to find the plug for my fog light switch. Its not the switch it self , its the plug or wiring harness that connects to the switch. Wondering where i can get one of those or if its possible.
Your best bet is a junkyard. That or you can try hitting up Napa or the Stealership.
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Old 05-11-2010, 01:39 AM
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i got a 1989 jeep cherokee with an automatic transmission and 218k at an auction for cheap and found out that the only bad part is after it has been running around for a while it starts to slip in 2nd gear and then wont shift out of first. it shifts smooth and doesnt have any issues for the first about 10 or 15 miles, i changed the fluid and filter and was looking into adjusting the bands. any ideas on what this may be? im trying to get it going for cheap but do have a used tranny with 88k miles lined up just in case.
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
Your best bet is a junkyard. That or you can try hitting up Napa or the Stealership.
Hi Zach, thank you for joining this thread.
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jeep_guy3
i got a 1989 jeep cherokee with an automatic transmission and 218k at an auction for cheap and found out that the only bad part is after it has been running around for a while it starts to slip in 2nd gear and then wont shift out of first. it shifts smooth and doesnt have any issues for the first about 10 or 15 miles, i changed the fluid and filter and was looking into adjusting the bands. any ideas on what this may be? im trying to get it going for cheap but do have a used tranny with 88k miles lined up just in case.
Change the TPS. The TCU isn't reading the throttle position and won't shift into second.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:05 PM
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Ok, just a quick question, i've got an 88 Xj with the 4.0. Does anybody know the thread dimensions (i guess) for the harmonic balancer bolt? i've got an install tool, but none of the end have the right thread on them...good ol' autozone...
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:34 PM
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Would the 58$ ADJ Track bar be ok for DD use? Ive heard people say they dont hold up, but I assume they use their jeeps for other things than just driving around. I dont have the money for anything more expensive than the 60 bucks for this one.

Drivers tire sticks out 2-3" past the flare, passengers side is pushed in. Jeep is all over the road, but I think thats a different problem that will require work some time later when I have more money.

Edit: its actually 62$ and it says for 4"+ of lift, Mine is 3" front. Will I need to find a different one? (if so, I guess im just gonna have to deal with it. I dont have 200 bucks)
http://www.carparts.com/ROUGH-COUNTR...0200_10618.car

Last edited by 89Laredo; 05-11-2010 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 05-12-2010, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Defiance665
Would the 58$ ADJ Track bar be ok for DD use? Ive heard people say they dont hold up, but I assume they use their jeeps for other things than just driving around. I dont have the money for anything more expensive than the 60 bucks for this one.

Drivers tire sticks out 2-3" past the flare, passengers side is pushed in. Jeep is all over the road, but I think thats a different problem that will require work some time later when I have more money.

Edit: its actually 62$ and it says for 4"+ of lift, Mine is 3" front. Will I need to find a different one? (if so, I guess im just gonna have to deal with it. I dont have 200 bucks)
http://www.carparts.com/ROUGH-COUNTR...0200_10618.car
Why don't you keep the stock one or if it's bad you pick another in the JY and you drill another hole on the axle end bracket? Cheap and easy.
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