Nice great start. Def get the lCA and eventually the SYe. Don't stress uppers use that money for armor. Like a ruffstuff diff cover or zJ tie rod

 

How hard is a steering column swap

 

U also will need a sye.

 

Back spacing has nothing to do with where the axle sits in the fenders. What I'm saying is that with stock LCAS, your axle WILL be pulled to the rear of the vehicle thus rubbing the rear of the inner fender. Don't get ancy. Suspension/steering is something I would not rush to do. Do it once and do it right!

With the Trac Bar, I'm at 6" with a drop bracket on the Trac Bar... my axle is off center by 1/4". It all depends on the rig. I'm still 2wd, and when I did the lift, I had 4* shims and a TC drop with 2.5" schackles. The shackles rotate the pinion angle up and withthe shims, it was too much. So, SYE may not be necessary. My buddy is on 9" with the stock shaft, shims, and a tc drop and is running fine. He does have a SYE on the way for flex reasons.

Correct. As I just said, the track bar drop may be fine. I'd measure the axle centering to see where it is. And backspacing is from the axle out, not where the tire/axle sits in the fender well. I'd get LCA's before I'd drive it. It won't be safe due to the stress on the front steering components. They can only be pulled back for so long before TRE's start going out etc etc. LCAs IMMEDIATELY. UCA, depends. I'm still fine on the stock ones. SYE, once again, depends. Sometimes you can get away with changing out drive shafts.

See above.

Definitely see above.

 

Thanks for all the help! I'll probably be back. I found lower control arms and if I have any more issues ill just come back and ask again

 

No problem buddy. That's what we're here for... to help each other. Feel free to also shoot me a PM. But just remember one thing, everybody's setup is different.

 

ok - another guy called me back and said $2600. that includes boring out the block, new pistons, new water pump, tearing the engine completly down and replacing all seals and hoses. basicly just reusing my crank and intake manifold and top end. but i keep getting told by people to run it till it fails cuz it has good even compresion and not to worry about the leak, my gut feeling is that the haed gasket will blow out on me whrn i off in the woods 4hrs from home with no cell phone service so i think first of the year i will rebuild it.

 

I appreciate the faith in my answers, but I can't ignore this one. Dukie knows 10,000x more about Jeeps, automotive, and engineering than me. When I got on CF and didn't know anything, I looked to him for answers (as well as some other members). He's taught me a lot.
I try not to answer questions unless I'm sure of my answer. If I'm not sure, I'm not afraid to admit that, because I don't want people to be misinformed.

With all that said, I think I've corrected Dukie about Jeeps twice, and they were both Comanche-specific questions.

As for me, the Army has me working 250 hours/mo in an office where CF is blocked and I can't have my phone.

 

If you choose to go through all that, might as well do a 4.6/4.7L stroker. You can use some parts from a 258 CJ I6.

 

X2 either that or a new engine. I can't imagine you're doing the work yourself are you?

 

I dont see $2600 in a simple rebuild.. You need to get another estimate from somewhere else, it shouldnt be that much. Now did he say boring the block or honing the block? If your doing a complete rebuild you might as well be replacing some parts in the top end as well. If you just have a leak, get the head shaved and replaced the head gasket.. No need to fix something that already works.
Hell for that money there's a brand new 4.0 thats been sitting on craigslist for a while for $750 bucks. Would be worth the money to just drive and get it.

 

I remember when you were a young lad... Lol so was I

 

Dude... Napa has the damn things with a warranty for $1700. I have a rebuilt motor in my Jeep, the guy I bought the motor from had a shop rebuild it. It smokes out of the valve cover and has an intermittent rocker arm squeak... For GOD'S SAKE, BUY THE FACTORY CRATE MOTOR.

 

Alright detectives... happens below thirty and increases with speed even at a crawl on the front axle. Any takers.

 

Sounds like a bearing of some sort. My buddies f150 made that exact same noise in the same way except from the rear and only from reverse.. Cant remember what it was, I'll ask him next time i see him and see what he did to his.

But if i was you i would check your U joints, both axle and driveshaft.. If thats not it its gotta be a bearing.