Actually, depending on length, it can. You need to remove the slip yoke thats on the other side of the front U-joint, then slap it onto the forward U joint of the double cardan. I'm not sure why you'd do that or if it would even work well, seems like a lot of slack to me.

 

that wouldnt get rid of his vibs, hed still have a slip yolk shaft.

 

Probably not, the drive shaft itself being able to change lengths and the double cardan will take care of operating angles but the whole thing would cause it's own special mess of vibes. But technically, you can do it. Lol

 

lol. basically itll work but its a dumb idea.

 

Just bought 1998 Cherokee & when I put it in D it will not move, but when I put it in L1 it will & then I can shift manually. At 1st the dash is out but as time goes on gauges come on. When speedo does start to work it goes on & off. Eventually after driving when I try to start in D it'll move but as if it may be starting in 3rd gear or something.

 

have you checked your neutral safety switch?

 

I've got a 98 xj with 162000 miles. CEL p0133 and p0171 came on so I changed out my upstream o2. P0133 went away but p0171 is still on. Any ideas?

 

What's the code mean? Did you reset the ecu?

 

It means the engine is running lean. To much air. That's why I though the o2 sensor would fix both CEL since a bad o2 will throw the engine off mixture wise.

I reset both codes using a scan gauge

 

Clean out all the sensors on the throttle body after you took it swimming?

 

Scuba diving not swimming haha. Cleaned all the throttle body plus the IAC, MAP and TPS. The manifold doesn't seemed to be cracked. I can only see it so well with the intake in the way though.

This p0171 code popped up about a week after I got the jeep running when we went on our little deep sea adventure. P0133 (upstream o2) came on a few days ago, a month after our outing.

 

Quick question concerning quick disconnects.
So I found a write up somewhere to make some discos for a stock height -2" lifted xj. Got it all set up, the pins used are Clovis pins, and there is a little play in the bar. Not much but a little. The guy that wrote it up said to check every once in a while to make sure pin is still good. Said his pins wear out about once a year, probably because of the play. I did this because I will be lifting her up within a few months, and didn't want to drop a lot into anything until then. My question is, is this little bit of play bad? It handles like normal, but just don't know.

Thanks

 

Got a 1999 XJ, interior's out while I'm working on it. I hear a very high pitched whine coming from what I think is the evap canister (drivers side under body, in front of axle). Is the noise anything to be worried about? Why does it make that sound? My hearing is pretty good so some people might not even notice lol

 

I believe the manifold is cracked however i dont have the time or means to rip it all apart just to find that out. So i was debating on just buying this...

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustMani...ampaign=1ATony

Or is it worth taking the manifold off and trying to find someone to weld it?

If preped properly would a 110v 90amp flux core weld the crack shut?

 

alright heres my next bright idea for my steering issue. replace it all. want to go to the JY and get a ZJ tie rod and an XJ drag link(dont see the point in replacing my swaybar). paint the parts and put new bushings on it all.

my only question is how does the ZJ tie rod work on an XJ...meaning do i need certain tie rod ends for it(ZJ or XJ)? because im going to replace them for new ones with new bushings.