upgrade renix ignition system
#1
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Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
upgrade renix ignition system
i have an 88 xj and i want to know if theres any other option for the coil and how its mounted i want a better connection so its one less thing i have to worry about is there anything i can do?
#3
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Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
what about the connectors? they seem very susceptible to the elements i dont like how they just slip into each other but ive searched and searched to see if there was any upgrades to the computer deal it sits on
#5
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0L H.O.
I tried to "improve" the factory ignition setup and putting an aftermarket coil will not do anything, and those msd icm boxes just dont run the I-6 right. The only thing i can recommend is the make your own wire kit from accel, if u take ur time they come out nice and u will get a snappier spark, i run those with ngk plugs and my 254,000 mile engine runs like A champ. Just my .02 on the matter. Oh, i also gap mine to .40 also not the stock .35.
#6
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
This is all you need to do:
Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing
The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future.
The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner.
Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Apply some dielectric grease to the contacts and bolt the coil back on to the ICU.
While you’re right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier. Apply dielectric grease to the connectors and plug them back in.
I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep.
Revised 11-29-2011
Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing
The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future.
The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner.
Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Apply some dielectric grease to the contacts and bolt the coil back on to the ICU.
While you’re right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier. Apply dielectric grease to the connectors and plug them back in.
I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep.
Revised 11-29-2011
#7
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Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm in the process of upgrading the ignition on my '90. So far I've installed Accel dist. cap #120330, Accel dist. rotor #130229, and Summit's 8mm wires. I have an MSD Blaster coil #8228. It's not a direct fit and the module needs to be modified to accept it. MSD told me how to make it work, check it out. Pretty simple, really.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/90...n-coil-114646/
I plan on opening the plugs to .040-.045 after the new coil.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/90...n-coil-114646/
I plan on opening the plugs to .040-.045 after the new coil.
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#9
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
The coil CNX that it drops into? Maybe clean them with an emery board every couple of years (gently!) to remove oxidation, and give the coil posts a quick pass while you're about it.
Make sure that there's about a postage stamp worth of clean metal around one of the mounting screws for a good ground, and that's all the "upgrade" that that ignition setup really needs. Apply a good corrosion inhibitor (find it in the hardware store, electrical section. Not dielectric grease, and not not not WD-40!) and reapply it after deepwater fording or whenever you're cleaning the coil contacts, and you're good.
Modern high energy ignition systems don't need much of an upgrade for most applications - unless you're getting silly with manifold boost, or trying to light exotic fuels. You're running about 45kV at the spark gap - which is plenty for gasoline at most compression ratios and low boost levels!
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