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Hello to all,
After about 254 pages and post only thing I can find is 242 and 231 case parts info or ones stronger than the other.
Overview on vehicle:
I have a 99 Jeep XJ sport loaded,4x4, I6, AW4 Auto, Zone 4.5 lift with full leaves, Zone steering stab and shocks, Additionally RC Adjustable Front Track Bar 4-6" of lift and RC LCA drop Brkt kit. TJ rims with 255/70/18 Hankook AT's on 5x5 adapters.
Is there a number on T case or on body somewhere that I can determine which case I have? Is it denoted by shifter pattern on console?
Here is a pic of my shifter.
Thanks ahead time for any light you can shed on this.
However, there is a round tag on the transfer case itself that will tell you what the unit actually is.
It's the red tag in that photo. Likely it will be completely covered in grime
I once bought a cherokee that had the bezel from a 242, but the original unit had been swapped for a 231.
Thanks yes when I was cleaning underneath vehicle though it very clean to start with I did notice that tag I will look tonight.
I think I screwed though if it is a 242. I am getting driveline vibe . I took out rear shaft left front one in no vibration. Reversed process vibe is there. so its the rear drive shaft.
Is it possible to get a double CV drive shaft to smooth out the vibration? Time to do more post searching it think.
Last edited by Ranger4219; Apr 29, 2016 at 03:25 PM.
Put (have put) new U-Joints on the rear shaft. Spacers between the cross member and the frame to drop the TC may help (?). I'm not an expert on un-phucing lifted Heeps so someone that is should chime in.
Most jeeps with the 242 and even a small lift require a transfer case drop (cheap and easy to install) or a slip yoke eliminator (not cheap and not something that you can undo, but is the better option) or you will get vibrations.
I suggest avoiding that double cardon drive shaft with slip yoke. I tried one and it only reduces vibrations, does not eliminate them. Slip-joint needs to be in the drive shaft.
I did the hack-n-tap on my 242 about five years ago. Used my own front drive shaft for the rear until I could source another stock front shaft. $100 for the yoke, $50 for the drive shaft.
I suggest avoiding that double cardon drive shaft with slip yoke. I tried one and it only reduces vibrations, does not eliminate them. Slip-joint needs to be in the drive shaft.
I did the hack-n-tap on my 242 about five years ago. Used my own front drive shaft for the rear until I could source another stock front shaft. $100 for the yoke, $50 for the drive shaft.
It's likely the slip yoke itself that was causing the vibes.
It's likely the slip yoke itself that was causing the vibes.
Correct, the fit is not good enough, there is a small amount of sideways slop between output shaft and drive shaft yoke.
Also, this system places the cardon joint further from TC than a hack-n-tap would.
I should have known because the ad said "helps reduce driveline vibrations". Reduction is not good enough, requires elimination.