XJ double shear track bars with 3" of lift?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: North Louisiana
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I need a better track bar setup for my Jeep.
I'm wanting to keep my lift at 3".
I'd rather not use a drop pitman.
Is there any setup out there that will allow me to achieve this properly?
If not, and I have to go 4"...
Whose track bar and bracket would you run that has the brace.
Really interested in the RE 1669, 1665 & 1670 system.
But you MUST have 4" or more lift to run such a setup.
Or can you just bump stop your axle away from the brace and bracket and then run 3" of lift?
I'm wanting to keep my lift at 3".
I'd rather not use a drop pitman.
Is there any setup out there that will allow me to achieve this properly?
If not, and I have to go 4"...
Whose track bar and bracket would you run that has the brace.
Really interested in the RE 1669, 1665 & 1670 system.
But you MUST have 4" or more lift to run such a setup.
Or can you just bump stop your axle away from the brace and bracket and then run 3" of lift?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: North Louisiana
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 2.5L MFI
But considering most track bars are $120, and IRO's bracket for the double shear is $80, that seems like your best bet
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: North Louisiana
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I got tired of searching and pulled the trigger on a RE1660 with RE1665 bracket and added the RE1670 brace to it.
I mainly chose it because of the brace.
I installed it today, looks like I need about 4" of extra bumpstop to keep my differential housing off of the brace which will also keep the bar itself off of the diff cover.
Without the brace I could've gotten away with only 3" of extra stop.
So far that's the only downside I see with the set up.
I mainly chose it because of the brace.
I installed it today, looks like I need about 4" of extra bumpstop to keep my differential housing off of the brace which will also keep the bar itself off of the diff cover.
Without the brace I could've gotten away with only 3" of extra stop.
So far that's the only downside I see with the set up.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 389
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From: Albuquerque
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
That set up is bombproof. I run the same set up at 6.5" up front on 35's and wheel the snot out of it.
It may be a PITA to get setup on a small lift, but once it's in, you won't have to think about it again.
It may be a PITA to get setup on a small lift, but once it's in, you won't have to think about it again.
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Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: North Louisiana
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I've read lots of good about the setup, but have read many posts of RE bushings being total junk.
Although those seem to be mostly complaints of the control arms.
Which some people swear by them.
Alot of things are a total shot in the dark though.
My goal is to add a Boostwerks ultimate steering brace and a good bumper + box spacer to help brace up
the front frame work.
May as well add stiffners to the mix.
Things sure do escalate quickly when you try to do it right.
Last edited by Constantine; May 2, 2016 at 06:41 PM.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: North Louisiana
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I've also been researching lower control arms.
Rockkrawler has been said by many to make some good ones but I couldn't find any on the market.
I have adjustable LCA's with Flex joints but they are the straight design, I don't even max out the stock rubber lines at full droop.
On the fence with paying hard earned cash for a new set of curved LCA's or cutting the shock mount.
I know the correct answer.... but trimming is cheap.
Cheap isn't always good though.
Don't ask me how I know, I don't want to talk ab it lol.
Last edited by Constantine; May 2, 2016 at 06:42 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
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From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 643
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From: s.jersey
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
drilled the bracket out to fit the bolt is all.. all the spacers that came with the TB worked.
RE instructions say you can't use that bracket under like 4.5" of lift. it is no where near hitting anything on my 3.5" lift.
frank from serious offroad recommended the set up.. when i called him and told him what the directions said and that the bracket would need to be drilled, he said bolt it all on and if i don't like it to return it for a refund. said he had sold many for the same use with no complaints.. he was right. it all fit with no issues.
.
RE instructions say you can't use that bracket under like 4.5" of lift. it is no where near hitting anything on my 3.5" lift.
frank from serious offroad recommended the set up.. when i called him and told him what the directions said and that the bracket would need to be drilled, he said bolt it all on and if i don't like it to return it for a refund. said he had sold many for the same use with no complaints.. he was right. it all fit with no issues.
.
Last edited by abodyjoe; May 2, 2016 at 08:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: North Louisiana
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Man that was a good idea.
Mine wasn't close to hitting anything at ride height, I checked full compression without coils and shocks installed to get my bump stop length.
In all honestly, my axle should never compress that far with coils installed.
The 1665 bracket also gives very little drop, compared to some of the others I had laying around.
Mine fit a 1/2" bolt without modification.
Used a grade 8, 1/2", 3.5" length.
Mine wasn't close to hitting anything at ride height, I checked full compression without coils and shocks installed to get my bump stop length.
In all honestly, my axle should never compress that far with coils installed.
The 1665 bracket also gives very little drop, compared to some of the others I had laying around.
Mine fit a 1/2" bolt without modification.
Used a grade 8, 1/2", 3.5" length.
Old School CF Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,652
Likes: 3
From: Chattanooga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
X2 on the RE 1660 and 1665 bracket.
Works mint on 3"
Plus, its chromoly
http://cavfab.com/Track-Bars_c_39.html
Works mint on 3"
Plus, its chromoly

http://cavfab.com/Track-Bars_c_39.html
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I hope to get the same results.
I've read lots of good about the setup, but have read many posts of RE bushings being total junk.
Although those seem to be mostly complaints of the control arms.
Which some people swear by them.
Alot of things are a total shot in the dark though.
My goal is to add a Boostwerks ultimate steering brace and a good bumper + box spacer to help brace up
the front frame work.
May as well add stiffners to the mix.
Things sure do escalate quickly when you try to do it right.
I've read lots of good about the setup, but have read many posts of RE bushings being total junk.
Although those seem to be mostly complaints of the control arms.
Which some people swear by them.
Alot of things are a total shot in the dark though.
My goal is to add a Boostwerks ultimate steering brace and a good bumper + box spacer to help brace up
the front frame work.
May as well add stiffners to the mix.
Things sure do escalate quickly when you try to do it right.
I just did an axle swap up front. The PO had installed the RE lift and Trackbar set up. After 75,000 miles of DD duty for him, and a couple years of HARD wheeling for me, after inspecting the bushing on both TB and control arms, I didn't bother replacing the bushings, they were ALL still solid.



