Running 36s witch axles are recomended?
You set the axle ball joints at 7* and then you weld the truss on at 0*. so it gives it the factory setting then you adjust your upper/lowers for pinion angle. Mine worked out perfectly as far as angles go.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
Ideally with the double cardan at the t case your yoke will point at the output on the case. With a lift and proper castor this can be difficult. I would weld it in the same place as stock. The castor adjustment should come from the control arms. It gets complicated when you want to keep all the proper geometry ie spring buckets track bar steering and camber and set the pinion angle.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
Originally Posted by PingPong
You set the axle ball joints at 7* and then you weld the truss on at 0*. so it gives it the factory setting then you adjust your upper/lowers for pinion angle. Mine worked out perfectly as far as angles go.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,648
Likes: 0
From: Havana fl
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You have several options, one is redrill the pitman arm for one ton tie rod inserts, next is the same but use a durango steering box, and the thrid there is a steering box that is 4 bolts that isn't quite bolt in, but isn't that hard (I don't remember what it is because i'm gonna do a durango).
Ideally with the double cardan at the t case your yoke will point at the output on the case. With a lift and proper castor this can be difficult. I would weld it in the same place as stock. The castor adjustment should come from the control arms. It gets complicated when you want to keep all the proper geometry ie spring buckets track bar steering and camber and set the pinion angle.
Nope no bow in my springs at all.
On my steering I am running hi steer/crosssover steering. Depending on what you are working with depends on what you need to do to make it work. I am running a stock pitman arm drilled for a 3/4 bolt.
On the front axle it is all about compromise. you want your caster axle as close to 7* as possible. Also you dont want to have your angles so screwed up that you are causing driveline vibes. The cool thing about having an axle with lock outs.. you really dont have to worry about that problem.
On the front axle it is all about compromise. you want your caster axle as close to 7* as possible. Also you dont want to have your angles so screwed up that you are causing driveline vibes. The cool thing about having an axle with lock outs.. you really dont have to worry about that problem.
If I had to choose a set of axles it would have to be a set of Mogs, or daimond axle hybrid mog axles... but at 4k just for housings for stock mog.. and more then that for custom hybrids... I dont see that happening
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Mogs all the way. With Rocks you have to lift a ton just to clear them and unless you're running 46+ inch tires they are too much. I'm thinking 14bolts front and rear for my next build. Put in a set of RCVs and you're at Rock strength with a whole lot less weight and you actually have gearing options other than 6.72.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Wybuck
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
17
Jan 30, 2024 08:59 AM
Hewittxj
Modified XJ Cherokee Tech
35
Aug 31, 2015 04:43 PM
Batman33165
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
7
Aug 27, 2015 02:20 PM
MACherokee
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
3
Aug 20, 2015 01:57 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)



