i'm sure they're welded.
what eric did was sleeve the 9" internally to fit d44 shafts and scout outters.

another buddy bought a set of spidertrax 609 axles that were custom built to his measurements. so there's always that route.

 

These threads crack me up as well

D30 on 35+ tires not happing with me!

As PingPong my buddy breaks his D30 WITH chromo's on 33's just about every time it goes to Haspen or Wellsville.

That's why I'm buying parts and saving money to do my swap all at once and not putting money in something that will just keep needing fixed.

 

Correct the nine is all one piece just the third member comes off

 

But u can buy floater nine inch housingswith what ever llength tubes u want... then just build the internals how ever u want... I would suggest doing 31 spline over the stock 29 spline

 

I thought there was only like one floater company around still, I know warn used to make a kit but other than them and schreiner who else is there I am curious about trying it on mine?

 

Anyway someone could maybe throw a link to craigslist on axles that should be used?

Hate being a noob

 

Well I'm just happy some one finally said they would just go for the 60 and skip the 44. 9's are better then a 44 but that is a hole bunch of work to be weaker then a 60.

 

U can get bare housings just check out speedwaymotors.com or day motorsports... I have one in my 79 cutlass dirt stock car... think I built it with a full spool and 7.0 gear for about a 1000 dollars

 

Daimond axle makes a 609 housing with crane c's for 1290 shipped


I am building a rig with a 60.. Just think having a 60 to run 36's is over kill.


Talking about axles.. lets not forget about the srength of the Toy axles.. especially if you put dirty 30's or bobby longs in them. Stock toy axles will support 36's add some longs and you can run 40's with no issues, as long as your rig is under 3200#'s.

Me driving a zuk buggy on daimond axles and 40 sticky treps.



Said buggy flopped on insanity 2hrs later

 

What about a 1978 f 250 dana 44 Hp front and a 60 rear? Are those decent axles for a swap?

 

Those are a great set of axles if you want to run full width axles.

 

Cool thats gunna save alot of money and time my cousin has one in his back yard were gunna tare apart. When it comes to welding new coil spring perches and shock mounts and even control arm mounts on the axle, were can you find these? Also do you put the axle in place and weld from there? or is there a better way of positioning mounts?

Thanks

Dan

 

I believe that TnT customs sells a full truss that already has coil buckets, shock mounts, control arm mounts and track bar mount pre positioned to fit under an XJ. Just have to strip ford mounts off and weld on the truss, should bolt right up after that.

http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep/axle_...eafsprung.aspx

 

Just what the guy above said. I am running the TNT truss on my rig. My advice would be to go over all their welds and add some extra plate on top and on the drivers side where it mounts to the axle.

Here you can see my truss failure




Since it was all ready welded on my axle.. I removed the part that failed... added 1/4 plate under... Plug weled, then put the broken piece back on... cut a nice v-notch welded it up... then I added another piece of 1/4 plate over the top.. then I capped that with 1/4 C channel.. and welded that to the housing.

There are a coupl other companies that make just an over the pumpkin truss with no lca mounts that use the diff cover bolt holes to hold as well. DO some research. I prefer to use Barnes 4wd and Artec industires for parts that are not xj speciific.

As for the LCA mounts.. I am running their on my xj, but on the truggy I am building I went with Artec industries lca mounts, they are much beefier mounts, p-lus they protect the joint.. my LCA joints on MY xj have some deep scaring now from a few trail rides.

 

Iv got one last question about that truss kit with all the mounts on it. When i do weld the truss on the 44 am i gunna want to shift the axle so it points at the t-case to keep less angle on the joints? kinda like shimming the rear, or should i keep it flat?

Thanks

Dan