so all that said. are these what im looking for?
http://lansing.craigslist.org/pts/2687971276.html

http://flint.craigslist.org/pts/2632793933.html

 

The 44 will have cast wedges and only useful if you plan on using the ford radius arms.

 

Decent price on the 9" like posted above skip the front axle.

 

If you say a D30 with 36's is going to brake you can say the same thing about a 44. A 44 is hardly stronger then a 30 in stock form. This summer I ran a stock 30 with 36's and only broke once and I was not nice to it. In fact up in New Franken I watched a YJ with a 44 and cromo's brake bent the ears on both shafts and destroyed a alloy USA joint. He was locked with 35's. I hit it right after with a ton more throttle stock 30 with 36's not locked and made it with ease. 44's are a wast of time and money. A short time ago I picked up a 60 for $150 that will go in this winter. If you can't find a good deal on a 60 then just pick up some spare shafts at a JY for your 30 and run it. If some snob gets mad that they have to wate 15 min for you to fix a shaft I wouldn't worry about it. We have all been there and there is always a guy like me who is more then willing to give a helping hand on the trail. Think about it. In order to get a 44 half as strong a a 60 you need cromo shafts and alloy joints. Most times you also need to re-gear it. So how much $$ do you want to wast to be half as strong as a 60. Also when you brake a 44 shaft on the trail where you going to get one. LOL Buy a few extra 30 shafts and save for your 60.

 

I just switched to a 44 and a 9" and I plan on running 37s I know tons of people that run 39.5s on that setup and they are fine my problem with the 30 was ball joints couldnt make em last

 

ping pong, what gears are you running?

 

Just because the u-joints are the same size in some 30s and 44 don't mean they are the same strength. Different size shafts and ring and pinions. Compairing a locked axle to an open one, the open will break less any day but the locked one will make things with a lot less throttle. 44/9 is a good combo and my 44 works good for me but if I were to do it again I'd skip the 44 and do a 60.

 

Just found out I have 760s in my d30 courtesy of the p.o. gotta send my order back to rock auto and get the right ones. There sits my jeep no hubs no axles. Kinda sad looking. On the upside at least I got the big u joints. Anyhow I was thinkin maybe it would be better to have the 297s. I was wondering with those if you would break a u joint before an axle?

 

Still put the 9 inch in the bad with a 60 in front or would i be better off with the 60 rear too?

 

IN my chop top xj I am running Nitor 5.13's with a 231/231 doubler. Double low is in the are of 141 to 1

ON my truggy I am on the fence.. thinking it will be Nitro 5.38 with 231/d300 (hopefully 4to1 when it is done.. or that wil be next upgrade) with the 4to1 I wil have 219to1 with a v-6 and an Auto on 39's... without the 4 to 1 I will be right at 143to 1

The 760x joints are stronger then alloy shafts.. ask me how I know.
Short side inner shaft


Long side inner shaft


Both of those shafts are Alloy USA chromo's with their 760 joints. I was also only running 33" dunlow mud rovers SO when ppl tell you that 36's will survive on chromo's I just post up pics.

 

i'm gonna ditch my 44 front and keep my 9" rear, and just grab another 9" and retube it with either 44 or 60 outters.

my buddy did a 9" front with scout 44 outters. worked great till someone stole his rig.

 

Wow, that's incredible how much those twisted at the splines. Thanks for posting those, I know what not to buy for my 44 haha.

 

Lol the axle arguments never get old it's great!!! Keep it going

 

how do the tubes come out? pressed in?

 

Think the 9 is welded