I know i have a couple threads out there on axle swaps but im still not sure witch ones i should buy... I just dont wanna dump a bunch on money in the d30 What axles did you use and from what year? . Another question is would a lincoln 120v mig do a axle swap? Im still a newb at this but would like to build my rig more.
Thanks
Dan
Thanks
Dan
CF Veteran
OK we will start with your tooling first.
I wouldnt want to weld my perches and truss on with a 110 welder of any kinda. It would work good so you could tack things in place and to carry it somewhere else to get welded.
As for axles for 36's I would recommend d44's or better. Depending on what your budget is, and how much work you can do yourself would determine how extreme to go.
Also you have to decide what bolt pattern and what steering setup you plan on using.
I am running a 73 HPd44 with reid chevy knuckles and waggy outers, with solid high steer arms, and a TNT truss. For the rear I am running a 9" with TNT UBE's and 6 Lug Dutchman axle shafts
The whole reason I am running this kinda set up is I have a set of 6 lug beadlocks.. so I spent a lil extra to make it work.
I wouldnt want to weld my perches and truss on with a 110 welder of any kinda. It would work good so you could tack things in place and to carry it somewhere else to get welded.
As for axles for 36's I would recommend d44's or better. Depending on what your budget is, and how much work you can do yourself would determine how extreme to go.
Also you have to decide what bolt pattern and what steering setup you plan on using.
I am running a 73 HPd44 with reid chevy knuckles and waggy outers, with solid high steer arms, and a TNT truss. For the rear I am running a 9" with TNT UBE's and 6 Lug Dutchman axle shafts
The whole reason I am running this kinda set up is I have a set of 6 lug beadlocks.. so I spent a lil extra to make it work.
Seasoned Member
What he said. I have welded a pair of perches on with a 110 and it burned in decent but it was all the welder had. Although that's the only part on that jeep that hasn't broken to this day haha. I would have been much more comfortable with a bigger welder. Do you wheel it often and hard? Are you looking to do lockers? Are you breaking stuff now? A friend of mine makes his CJ live with a v8 and d30 front on 40s just driving smart and being quick with the clutch pedal. All depends on what you're going to do with it and what your goal and ability is. My d44s have held up really well (knocks on wood).
CF Veteran
i'm running a d44 rear locked and a large joint 30 up front open diff on my 36s.
wheel smarter, not harder.
the later year d30 has the same size u-joint as a d44, so there's really no means to swap out to a 44 unless you want full width.
you can also swap in alloy shafts and joints, but that would make your ring gear the weak point. it's easier to swap a shaft/joint than a ring gear while on the trail...
just don't lock the d30 with those big tires (been there, done that).
wheel smarter, not harder.
the later year d30 has the same size u-joint as a d44, so there's really no means to swap out to a 44 unless you want full width.
you can also swap in alloy shafts and joints, but that would make your ring gear the weak point. it's easier to swap a shaft/joint than a ring gear while on the trail...
just don't lock the d30 with those big tires (been there, done that).
Senior Member
Plenty of people run stock axles with 35+ tires, just be smart on the trails and you will be fine. I have 2 buddy's I wheel with one has 37's the other has 35's with stock axles and they have only broken driveshafts. Easy enough fix on the trail. People on this site read the stock axles are incredibly weak with no real experience and then just spit out what they have read. Run it tell it explodes then upgrade
CF Veteran
Quote:
I wouldnt want to weld my perches and truss on with a 110 welder of any kinda. It would work good so you could tack things in place and to carry it somewhere else to get welded.
As for axles for 36's I would recommend d44's or better. Depending on what your budget is, and how much work you can do yourself would determine how extreme to go.
Also you have to decide what bolt pattern and what steering setup you plan on using.
I am running a 73 HPd44 with reid chevy knuckles and waggy outers, with solid high steer arms, and a TNT truss. For the rear I am running a 9" with TNT UBE's and 6 Lug Dutchman axle shafts The whole reason I am running this kinda set up is I have a set of 6 lug beadlocks.. so I spent a lil extra to make it work.
My Lincoln at 110 will burn through 3/16". I have never had to run it full blast. Ive had great results welding suspension components. I welded my lca mounts back on and welded 1x1 L brackets I made out of 3/16 on the sides without any issue. If you have a high quality 110v welder and the right wire you can get er done.Originally Posted by PingPong
OK we will start with your tooling first.I wouldnt want to weld my perches and truss on with a 110 welder of any kinda. It would work good so you could tack things in place and to carry it somewhere else to get welded.
As for axles for 36's I would recommend d44's or better. Depending on what your budget is, and how much work you can do yourself would determine how extreme to go.
Also you have to decide what bolt pattern and what steering setup you plan on using.
I am running a 73 HPd44 with reid chevy knuckles and waggy outers, with solid high steer arms, and a TNT truss. For the rear I am running a 9" with TNT UBE's and 6 Lug Dutchman axle shafts
The whole reason I am running this kinda set up is I have a set of 6 lug beadlocks.. so I spent a lil extra to make it work.
CF Veteran
I believe you will be fine with stock axles on 36's. You live in Lansing so you probably go to bundy hill and its possible to take it easy on the skinny pedal to get around there. Might have to get chromos for the front have carry spares when things get tight.
CF Veteran
Quote:
wheel smarter, not harder.
the later year d30 has the same size u-joint as a d44, so there's really no means to swap out to a 44 unless you want full width.
you can also swap in alloy shafts and joints, but that would make your ring gear the weak point. it's easier to swap a shaft/joint than a ring gear while on the trail...
just don't lock the d30 with those big tires (been there, done that).
YOU are correct except that you also move the weak point to the stub shaft splines. I sheered an alloy Usa stub shaft off... Originally Posted by caged
i'm running a d44 rear locked and a large joint 30 up front open diff on my 36s.wheel smarter, not harder.
the later year d30 has the same size u-joint as a d44, so there's really no means to swap out to a 44 unless you want full width.
you can also swap in alloy shafts and joints, but that would make your ring gear the weak point. it's easier to swap a shaft/joint than a ring gear while on the trail...
just don't lock the d30 with those big tires (been there, done that).
Quote:
Speaking from experience.. ppl breaking parts cause they are running big tires (35+) on stock parts pisses me off. Yeah easy fix, but When I leave the house to go wheeling I am all ready in the hole 300+ for fuel and entry fees to the events.Originally Posted by cherokee90
Plenty of people run stock axles with 35+ tires, just be smart on the trails and you will be fine. I have 2 buddy's I wheel with one has 37's the other has 35's with stock axles and they have only broken driveshafts. Easy enough fix on the trail. People on this site read the stock axles are incredibly weak with no real experience and then just spit out what they have read. Run it tell it explodes then upgrade
Quote:
It really isnt about the voltage of a welder, it is all about duty cycle and amperage. Sure you can bevel it so you can weld it.. but then didnt you just make the metal thinner.Originally Posted by Slick761
My Lincoln at 110 will burn through 3/16". I have never had to run it full blast. Ive had great results welding suspension components. I welded my lca mounts back on and welded 1x1 L brackets I made out of 3/16 on the sides without any issue. If you have a high quality 110v welder and the right wire you can get er done.
Also most LCA's and trusses are 1/4+. Heck I just bought some LCA mounts that are 5/16, and coil mounts that are 3/8. Is it over kill.. maybe... but I wouldnt think of welding them with a 110 welder.Lastly a note on the D30 and my experience with it. I have broken more then my share of d30 shafts, stock ABSw/760x joints, Yukon, and Alloy Usa.. all with tire size 35" and under. My rig is deffinately geared properly with a doubler, so I dont use throttle. I do tend to take harder lines, but after being in this sport for the last decade, I have learned that by the time you spend the money upgrading and building the D30 you are at the cost of building a d44, or even a custom axle.
As for fab tools.. everyone has a stove, and most ppl have a dryer. Buy a 220 welder, and make an extension cord. You will be much happier, with the capabilities of your equipment. Also you wil have more confidence in your work.
CF Veteran
just take yourself to harbor freight and purchase the dual mig 151, usually on sale for $200 or sell...
it is an old Clarke Welder that has a new sticker on it... they do really great after you upgrade the fan (really increases the welder life and duty cycle at gull tilt)
it is an old Clarke Welder that has a new sticker on it... they do really great after you upgrade the fan (really increases the welder life and duty cycle at gull tilt)
CF Veteran
Speaking from experience.. ppl breaking parts cause they are running big tires (35+) on stock parts pisses me off. Yeah easy fix, but When I leave the house to go wheeling I am all ready in the hole 300+ for fuel and entry fees to the events.
X100 I used to be that guy making do with stock parts and upgrading to the point I was throwing money away (Yukon alloys in a D35). If you plan on wheeling it hard spend the money and get a good set of axles. My 44/60 combo works for me but even with chromos in the 44 I have broken shafts but I'm not one to back down from a trail till I break it, make it or the wife says go around it.
X100 I used to be that guy making do with stock parts and upgrading to the point I was throwing money away (Yukon alloys in a D35). If you plan on wheeling it hard spend the money and get a good set of axles. My 44/60 combo works for me but even with chromos in the 44 I have broken shafts but I'm not one to back down from a trail till I break it, make it or the wife says go around it.
Senior Member
[QUOTE=xjmarc;1307225]Speaking from experience.. ppl breaking parts cause they are running big tires (35+) on stock parts pisses me off. Yeah easy fix, but When I leave the house to go wheeling I am all ready in the hole 300+ for fuel and entry fees to the events.
X100 I used to be that guy making do with stock parts and upgrading to the point I was throwing money away (Yukon alloys in a D35). If you plan on wheeling it hard spend the money and get a good set of axles. My 44/60 combo works for me but even with chromos in the 44 I have broken shafts but
I'm not one to back down from a trail till I break it, make it or the wife says go around it. I love that line i live the same story or the look of if you break something it will be sitting for a while till you can fix it.
As far as the axles depending on how you drive you can survive I have for years on the d30/d35 bolt in combo and just recently have upgraded to d44/d60.
X100 I used to be that guy making do with stock parts and upgrading to the point I was throwing money away (Yukon alloys in a D35). If you plan on wheeling it hard spend the money and get a good set of axles. My 44/60 combo works for me but even with chromos in the 44 I have broken shafts but
I'm not one to back down from a trail till I break it, make it or the wife says go around it. I love that line i live the same story or the look of if you break something it will be sitting for a while till you can fix it.
As far as the axles depending on how you drive you can survive I have for years on the d30/d35 bolt in combo and just recently have upgraded to d44/d60.
CF Veteran
Two things. I didn't bevel the 3/16 and my little Lincoln was about half throttle on the amps and the penetration was great. I'm just saying I feel very comfortable welding 1/4" with that welder and I havent found a need to go thicker.... do you really NEED a truss thicker then 1/4 or armor thicker then 1/4"? Ok maybe spring perches.3/8 would definitely be pushing it. The MIG I bought I believe was the 180. Was the most powerful 110 I could buy at the time. It's price reflected that. I have welded several things on my front end and have yet to have any of it begin to separate or God forbid break. Just saying a high quality 110 does the job. Yes a 220 would do it without working as hard but that wasn't practical for my situation. I used to have a miller that was 220 but I had to get rid of it :-(... anyhow On the front axle.... I have tried to figure out a way to make building my d30 worth it but its not. By the time toured done upgrading your up to at least 1800-2000. A bit more and you can get a new 44 set up the way you want and built stout.
CF Veteran
This is why if you might be serious about offroading, it would be best to keep the 31-35" tires, and save money. Then in one shot upgrade to tons, long arms and much larger tires. Countless people say they wasted money taking the intermediate step before arriving to 1 ton axles and 38+ tires. This is where I'm at, collecting everything I need for 60/14 swap on 3 link front, 4 link rear, and 40-44" tires. Might sound expensive if you bought it all in one day but much better than continuously fixing and rebuilding broken axles over and over. With those parts I can change vehicles too if I get sick of the unibody
CF Veteran
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJerm
This is why if you might be serious about offroading, it would be best to keep the 31-35" tires, and save money. Then in one shot upgrade to tons, long arms and much larger tires. Countless people say they wasted money taking the intermediate step before arriving to 1 ton axles and 38+ tires. This is where I'm at, collecting everything I need for 60/14 swap on 3 link front, 4 link rear, and 40-44" tires. Might sound expensive if you bought it all in one day but much better than continuously fixing and rebuilding broken axles over and over. With those parts I can change vehicles too if I get sick of the unibody
I have the privalage of owning 2 rigs
I have my chop top XJ, and a MJ truggy. Yeah the truggy has been under the knife now for 5 yrs, but it is coming along. The xj is perfect for runs where there is street driving, and lessor obstacles. The truggy wil be great for places where you can play and rolling over wil happen. I really believe 36's to 38's can live happily on a set of well built d44/9" combo. Heck they now make 35 spline carriers for the d44 so you can literally build a d44 to have d60 strength with 2 more inches of clearance. SO if you did build a d44 and started breaking d44 chromo's then you can modify you axle to the strength of a d60. WOuld it be cheap... Hell no... but if you all ready have it built for your rig, and you can acquire the parts for the upgrade a lil at the time.
ALso you get to the point when you start questioning how streetable your rig is... my XJ on 36's to me is on the outer edge of what I would want to drive on the street.