Proportion valve
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 103
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From: San Diego,CA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Anyone got any thoughts on using/not using the proportion valve after upgrading to zj discs? I've heard of some issues with switching to the zj valve. I was thinking of taking it out completely. And seeing what happens. Should I even mess with it and just run the stock valve?
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 624
Likes: 2
From: Mt. Sidney, Va
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's not something that you have to do! I just done the disc swap on my 8.25 axle and I left the valve alone. If you want to change it, just swap the internals out..There is a heavy spring in the front behind the brass cap so be careful if you swap the internals because that spring will fly out on ya. Using a socket with an adjustable wrench to hold the valve is the best way to do it. That way you have better control over the plug with the socket than an open end wrench..
I wouldn't take it out all together though. I have read where removing them will cause the rear brakes to lock up!
I wouldn't take it out all together though. I have read where removing them will cause the rear brakes to lock up!
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
When I did this swap way back in the day I just removed the entire thing.
I'd suggest swapping out the internals first and see how you like it. Then pull them out all together and try it. Use which ever way feels best.
I'd suggest swapping out the internals first and see how you like it. Then pull them out all together and try it. Use which ever way feels best.
If you just swap the spring and the brass cap, you shouldn't need to bleed anything. I ran mine with the stock XJ valve and internals for about 6 months. It would not lock the front or rear on a hard stop. I swapped the brass cap and spring and now it will lock my 35s on dry pavement. Do it!
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If you just swap the spring and the brass cap, you shouldn't need to bleed anything. I ran mine with the stock XJ valve and internals for about 6 months. It would not lock the front or rear on a hard stop. I swapped the brass cap and spring and now it will lock my 35s on dry pavement. Do it!
But, why don't people want to bleed their brakes? It gets rid of contaminated fluid that is corrosoive to brake parts, gives better braking performance and it's super easy to do.
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 624
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From: Mt. Sidney, Va
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I tried it without the internals and then with the internals. You're right. Do it. I didn't bleed afterward either.
But, why don't people want to bleed their brakes? It gets rid of contaminated fluid that is corrosoive to brake parts, gives better braking performance and it's super easy to do.
But, why don't people want to bleed their brakes? It gets rid of contaminated fluid that is corrosoive to brake parts, gives better braking performance and it's super easy to do.
Which way worked best for you?
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
I tried it without the internals and then with the internals. You're right. Do it. I didn't bleed afterward either.
But, why don't people want to bleed their brakes? It gets rid of contaminated fluid that is corrosoive to brake parts, gives better braking performance and it's super easy to do.
But, why don't people want to bleed their brakes? It gets rid of contaminated fluid that is corrosoive to brake parts, gives better braking performance and it's super easy to do.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: San Diego,CA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
gonna do the disc conversion this weekend and i'll swap out for the zj internals. can't wait to actually stop when i want to. Thanks for all the replies guys!
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