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All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
Good afternoon,
Am a new member just signed up today!
I recently purchased a 98 Cherokee 6 cyl automatic.
I have done a lot of reading before venturing out and purchasing my RE 3.5 lift kit components...I did not buy the flex kit, I bough components instead.
Here is what I have so far:
RE1300 front coil springs
RE1463 rear leaf springs
RE15151 rear brake line extension
PRO Comp 50050 ubolt kit for 8.25 Chrysler rear end
RE3715 adj lower control arms
Bilstein 5100 series 3.5 ext shocks front and rear set
RE1660 extreme duty track bar
RXT200b steering stabilizer
RE 4 degree rear spring shims
RE1380 Bump stop
RE1140 gen 2 sway bar disconnect
My questions are will I need the SYE kit and double cardon shaft, or can I get away with the shims for the rear leaf springs and just add the 1 inch transfer case drop kit?
I also understand that the rear sway bar is no longer needed!
I plan on installing everything the weekend!
Would appreciate any input to those who have installed a similar kit to this on their XJ.
Thanks very much in advance for any help or comments.
James
Am a new member just signed up today!
I recently purchased a 98 Cherokee 6 cyl automatic.
I have done a lot of reading before venturing out and purchasing my RE 3.5 lift kit components...I did not buy the flex kit, I bough components instead.
Here is what I have so far:
RE1300 front coil springs
RE1463 rear leaf springs
RE15151 rear brake line extension
PRO Comp 50050 ubolt kit for 8.25 Chrysler rear end
RE3715 adj lower control arms
Bilstein 5100 series 3.5 ext shocks front and rear set
RE1660 extreme duty track bar
RXT200b steering stabilizer
RE 4 degree rear spring shims
RE1380 Bump stop
RE1140 gen 2 sway bar disconnect
My questions are will I need the SYE kit and double cardon shaft, or can I get away with the shims for the rear leaf springs and just add the 1 inch transfer case drop kit?
I also understand that the rear sway bar is no longer needed!
I plan on installing everything the weekend!
Would appreciate any input to those who have installed a similar kit to this on their XJ.
Thanks very much in advance for any help or comments.
James
MY RC lift came with shims on the leaf pack. At 3" I don't need a TC drop as teh vibes are minimal. Keep in mind, im on stock size tires (for now).
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 8
From: San Jose
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Tire size won't change anything. If you are getting any vibration at all you need to address the issue promptly or you will start damaging things.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington,NC
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok I'm new to the forum sites, I have purchased a 96 xj with a block 2.5" on the rear and the leafs are flat! I bought new wheels and 31 1050 15 renegade r5! So far in love with my tires and new wheels but some one before me added front coil upper steel welded in pipes! My plane for this rig is trail jeep but when I need it drive it to work! I'm interested in 4.5" left any help! Budget is set at $1000.00 you guys are the tried and trued please help
I'm just going in circles!
Thanks
I'm just going in circles!
Thanks
Still thinking about my lift, and have a thread that had what I wanted to do. On I think page 2 the OP mentions he removed the Rusty's 2in shackles and went back to the stock shackle? So how is it still at the lifted height if he isn't using the lifted shackles??
Here is the build thread I'm talking about:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/20...-wheels-36076/
Here is the build thread I'm talking about:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/20...-wheels-36076/
As for bump stops I bought 4 hockey pucs from amazon for a whooping 5 bucks plus shipping. I drilled and tapped the bottom coil bracket drilled a hole thru 2 pucs per side and mounted the pucs with stainless hardware.
The pucs plus the factory bump stops will not let me rub anywhere anymore.
Tranny cooler lines I added a small piece of rubber cooler hose and remounted the lines.
I have had mine a year come Dec. its a damn good kit for the money.
I got a deal on mine got the nitro upgrade shocks and shipping for 291 even threw in shock boots.
Im swapping out the D35 next week or 2 adding an 8.8 with 4.10s because it was free.
Did you do an AAL kit?
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Wondering if someone can point me in the right direction here. It is killing me not having an OTK steering on my Jeep now that I have it lifted higher. I love the IRO kit but can't afford it at the moment. I was looking at it and thought maybe I could make my own OTK kit. Couple pieces of dom tubing, inserts, heim joints, jam nuts and alacazam, OTK steering kit.
If it is possible to make my own for at least half the price of IRO, can someone tell me what parts I need or give me a link where someone has made their own with parts listed?
If it is possible to make my own for at least half the price of IRO, can someone tell me what parts I need or give me a link where someone has made their own with parts listed?
Last edited by Marks2000XJ; Sep 15, 2013 at 12:24 PM. Reason: grammar
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
If it is not possible to make a kit for around $150 then I will just have to wait. Have not seen the Ballistic kit. I will look for it.
I do see one problem of keeping cost down and that is having to buy a reeming bit if needed. Those are expensive. I was trying to mimic IRO and make it completely bolt on with no drilling. Their 1/2" is completely bolt on from what I understand.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
I saw one at Ruffstuff but it was like $245. Not bad but still need to get the cost down more if possible.
If it is not possible to make a kit for around $150 then I will just have to wait. Have not seen the Ballistic kit. I will look for it.
I do see one problem of keeping cost down and that is having to buy a reeming bit if needed. Those are expensive. I was trying to mimic IRO and make it completely bolt on with no drilling. Their 1/2" is completely bolt on from what I understand.




