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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:26 AM
  #19906  
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From: Massachusetts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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ok then in IRO's store they offer an adjustable for 180 or a fixed for 130 the fixed says for 3.5 inch lift in one spot and fits 3 inch in another spot will a fixed work for a 3 inch lift?
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:41 AM
  #19907  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by be_steal
ok then in IRO's store they offer an adjustable for 180 or a fixed for 130 the fixed says for 3.5 inch lift in one spot and fits 3 inch in another spot will a fixed work for a 3 inch lift?
That .5" won't matter.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:42 AM
  #19908  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I'm a fan of IRO's track bar and control arms. They're strong, not too steeply priced, and I've always had great experiences with them and their customer service.
They also have fast shipping
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:45 AM
  #19909  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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I just need to say for anyone who is looking to put a lift together. Be smart. I tried going cheap and i pretty much re did my lift 3 times in several years to get it where i want it now. Save the money get the right parts the first time around. Don't look for a lift that'll last a year.make it so it lasts several years.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:47 AM
  #19910  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Agreed, syco. I assembled my first one on Craigslist over a span of 6 months. The only new part was the IRO double shear track bar. I paid less than $1000 for my 3" lift, and that includes the cost of five 33x12.5 Duratracs with less than 500 miles on them.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 11:02 AM
  #19911  
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Year: 99
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
...or just recheck the torque if you want to try to avoid replacing them...
Thanks guys. I'll try to reuse them and see how it goes.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 11:07 AM
  #19912  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
that includes the cost of five 33x12.5 Duratracs with less than 500 miles on them.
Not everyone can get this lucky you bastard
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 11:20 AM
  #19913  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Not everyone can get this lucky you bastard
Patience. And I drove two hours out of my way to get them.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 01:43 PM
  #19914  
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From: Kingwod,NJ
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Patience. And I drove two hours out of my way to get them.
agreed sometimes the drive is worth it... I gt myself some mtr kevlars with 75% tread on Tacoma wheels , sold the Tacoma wheels for 250 and got some dwindows off jegs for 220 with shipping... And I only paid 500 for the original set haha so 470 for 75% kevlars was definitely worth my 2 hour drive
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 07:20 PM
  #19915  
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From: CT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Agreed, syco. I assembled my first one on Craigslist over a span of 6 months. The only new part was the IRO double shear track bar. I paid less than $1000 for my 3" lift, and that includes the cost of five 33x12.5 Duratracs with less than 500 miles on them.
Been checking craigslist for the past 3mo for tires, finally found some today, hope he's still got 'em.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 06:34 AM
  #19916  
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From: Tucson, Az
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by kgm
My lift is torqued down after the 100 mile break in period, but I am getting rear end vibes so I ordered a CV driveshaft. I will need to shim the rear axle to point the pinion at the transfer case.

When I unbolt the u bolts to install the shim, am I going to have to replace the u bolts? I'd hate to toss them so soon.
What CV driveshaft did you go with? And if you rotate the axel to point at the TC, what do you do about the shocks? They will be rotating as well with the axel and won't line up with their mounting spots on the body?
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 06:52 AM
  #19917  
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Originally Posted by Desertdave

What CV driveshaft did you go with? And if you rotate the axel to point at the TC, what do you do about the shocks? They will be rotating as well with the axel and won't line up with their mounting spots on the body?
The small amount it will be rotated won't effect shocks mounting points that bad, if it was you would just cut em and re weld them
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 10:45 AM
  #19918  
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Year: 1989
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My H&T SYE flange adapter is leaking again. Not enough to notice the fluid level drop or cause any mechanical concern but enough to make a mess and splash on the cat causing smoke. It's the type that has a thick washer at the end held in place with a C-clip. I've already taken it apart once and sealed it with RTV. I can't see any reason to ever remove the C-clip or washer so I'm planning to just weld right over the top of the C-clip to seal it. Alternate ideas are appreciated.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 10:49 AM
  #19919  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
My H&T SYE flange adapter is leaking again. Not enough to notice the fluid level drop or cause any mechanical concern but enough to make a mess and splash on the cat causing smoke. It's the type that has a thick washer at the end held in place with a C-clip. I've already taken it apart once and sealed it with RTV. I can't see any reason to ever remove the C-clip or washer so I'm planning to just weld right over the top of the C-clip to seal it. Alternate ideas are appreciated.
What year and what TC you have? Just curious
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 10:51 AM
  #19920  
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From: California
Year: 1989
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
What year and what TC you have? Just curious
89 with 242. No clue what brand SYE because I bought it 2nd hand. Also, I'm sure it's not coming from the seal at the xfer case. It's dry there.
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