You should be OK with this set up. If you go to any bigger tiers then you will have to trim.

 

Thanks! Although I decided to downsize to a 3" with 31's haha

 

fat end of the degree shim faces forward correct?

 

if you're trying to point the pinion at the ground...then yes.

 

How long should i allow my full leaf packs to settle before i buy spacers for the front to level it out?
EDIT: I had add a leafs then upgraded to full leaf packs and they're alot more than 3" of lift. Just wondering how long it would take for them to sag down to 3"

 

.

 

Very new to all this but here goes for my first question...

I just purchased a 2001 Cherokee sport yesterday and have already decided to lift it.

I have been looking at the rocky road outfitters 3 inch complete budget lift with shocks and the 4 ubolts I will need.

It will be a daily driver with maybe a trip to some mild trail runs down in South Missouri every now and then.

With shipping I am looking at about $375

Is it worth it and is it a good kit?

Thanks Gary

 

Ok so I have a question. I read that you need to ratchet strap your axle up front before the lift. Problem is, its after the fact and I'm having a lot of trouble getting my upper control arms in place. It's a RC 6.5 short arm. The angle is severe and needs to come down. I have tried to put a strap around the yoke and pulling forward to drop it down but even with a lot of pressure it is not pulling it down far enough. I have a 4' pipe wrench that I was thinking of trying but not sure. Also have a full fab shop to work out of, was thinking of welding some hooks on the axle for better position to pull from? I'm about 2.5" short from connecting the upper arms and only got an inch or so when I torqued the strap. Any ideas? This is the only thing holding me up to finish my first lift of any sorts! Any help is great. Thanks all - amateur

 

Im saving for a lift for my 88 cherokee chief. Im a high school student looking for a fair priced lift, I just paid my parents back for all my parts, and now im saving for a lift. My brother has some old 33s still in good shape with 75% tread left. What size lift would I have to get, and what would be a good brand for the price? I was thinking bout a 4.5 Zone lift

 

1 more thing, how do you remove the studs for a t-case drop, the nuts are no issue, but the studs don't seem to want to budge. The instructions say to put two nuts together on the stud to make a flange nut but the studs aren't moving at all.

 

Have you tried putting the wheel back on and putting the weight of the Jeep back down on the front axle?

For future reference, don't disconnect both sides/both uppers/ both lowers at the same time, it makes life a PITA. Also connect the uppers first and then work on the lowers. At least then you can use a jack under the pinion to make the axle cooperate.

For 33s you could do 3" with some trimming and they'd fit


For everyone asking about one type of lift to buy, don't get something from Rocky Road, Fat Bob's Garage, or Zone. Their lift kits are sketchy at best if you ask me.

The absolute cheapest route I'd take would be Rough Country, they make a decent product that they stand behind while being in the cheaper end of the market. I understand we're in a recession and money is tight but be safe, don't lift or modify your vehicle unless you're going to do it the right way.

Have you tried putting the two nuts together(so that one is keeping the other from spinning off) and using a wrench/deep socket with a cheater bar? With enough torque anything will either start to turn out or break.

 

Yes, I have lowered the weight back on the axle and nothing. I'm going to have to disconnect both lowers in order to get both uppers attached, but I think that may make it easier in the end. At least the location of the lowers is easier to get to. Sounds like I will have to do exactly what you said not to(disconnecting all arms at once) but I see no other way to get those uppers in place. Any other ideas on this?
Also, about the t case drop, I will try a cheater, but don't see how I will pull the stud out, doesn't it have a head on it that won't allow it to come out?

 

I've herd from off road stores and friends that rough country lifts break easily.

 

Hi. I have a 98 xj sport 4x4. A question about this lift kit. Its a 3" suspension lift for an 84-02 xj.

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_3x.html

I actually bought it off ebay but same lift.

So it comes with lower control arms and the sway bar drop brackets, which when i researched are essentials when lifting a jeep to keep from vibration & swaying. I talked to a guy who said i should consider getting a spacer for my driveline or transfer case or something like that; i can't recall what it was exactly Is there something else i should buy to add to prevent vibration and major swaying/wobble? Is a steering Stabilizer needed? Maybe some sort of spacer? I'm new to this site, so far its great!
Thanks

 

He was probably talking about a t-case drop, which you don't need at 3".

If you have driveline vibes the only true fix is an SYE and CV rear driveshaft.
Rough Country a while ago used to have serious quality issues. That was at least 4+ years ago. They now put out great products for the prices and very few people complain about issues with them.

They're gonna be better than some off brand like Zone or Fat Bobs.

But they're not going to be of Rubicon Express Quality.

Your problem is that you connected the uppers first, you need to connect the lowers first and then the uppers.

You need to find two nuts that will fit on to the stud, then you thread both of the nuts on and then turn the first nut counter clockwise until it wedges itself against the second Nut. Then you take a wrench and can back the stud out that way.