So when it comes to a 3 inch lift, what all is needs done? as far as new parts and stuff. Do I need new shocks? do I need a t case drop. And anything else you guys can think of would be helpful. Im trying to decide between a 2 inch or 3 inch. Thanks

 

Ok I know that this is probably somewhere in this thread but there are over 100 pages and it would probably take me a day to find what im looking for so here we go:
1998 xj 4.0L with 4 wheel drive, 3" superlift add a leaf, used 2" rustys coils, 1.75" coil spacers, 235/75/r15 all season tires, rustys quick disconnects, took sway bar off in back, and just recently 6* shims for the back which leads me into my question. I have about had it with the vibes I get around 30 mph. I put the shims in this weekend to try and fix it but it didn't at all. The drive shaft looks pretty straight coming from the rear axle, but maybe not so straight going into the transfer case. I dont know about a t case drop, having the transfer case and the transmission and the engine on one jack sounds a little fishy and I'm just not sure about doing that and I really dont want to spend a bunch of money on an SYE and take the drive shaft apart to install it.. I really feel like I am at a loss here and am even thinking about taking the lift off. I guess I am just looking at some reassurence or some tips on a t-case drop install. Also I would like to know if any shops would install a SYE. From my experiences, most dont want to mess with a lifted vehical. Thanks for any help

 

If you are gonna off road the vehicle then I would not recomend a T-case drop as you just lower the it down and I already it my X-member on everything at its stock point.

Search Rubicon Express Hack and Tap. Bar far the best (opinion) way to simulate a SYE. You may have to invest in a new driveshaft or to pull a Front driveshaft from the JY.

Shims will usually do the trick for 3-3.5 inches on a 231 T-case. I have even witnesses a correct shimming for 4.5 inches. But sometimes that just don't work.

 

If you're still running a slip yoke, then the angle of the driveshaft leaving the t case needs to match the angle of the shaft entering the diff

 

im looking for some lift advice. right now i have a 4.5 inch lift..im planning on ging up to 6 or 6.5 inches..i already have some 1.75" spacers for the front..and planning on getting some 1.5" shackles for the rear. on my to do list to make this possible is getting a SYE, some long arms.. if anyone has some advice or ideas please feel free to post.

 

Ohh ya I was kind of confused about that... I put the shim in backwards then. A friend of mine told me that I want to put a shim in so that the drive shaft is at an even angle where it meets the axle but now I guess I just made it worse. So now that I am trying to match the angle of the drive shaft leaving the t case then would you recommend 3* shims or keep the 6* ones and just turn them around and see what happens?

 

Ok wait which way do you put the shims in? With the fat end toward the front or back? Im confused Ive heard both ways..

 

For a SOA you put the fat end at the back

 

If you don't have an SYE you should NOT be using shims.

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html <- THERE, fixed.

Read this and look at the pictures. That should explain it.

The angle of the yoke coming out of the transfer case should be parallel to the angle of the pinion yoke on the rear axle. Otherwise you will get driveline vibs.

Unless you're running Dual 44s and 36s or bigger I see no reason to need a 6.5" lift. or maybe its a mall crawler.

 

A shim can help get the angles correct

 

So I need to take the shims out and do a t case drop..?

 

-facepalm-

Did you even read the link I posted?

I hate to sound like a douche, but if you cannot comprehend what we're all telling you, you might want to seriously reconsider modifying or driving your modified vehicle.

You need to make sure the TRANSFER CASE yoke, and the PINION yoke are parallel to each other.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_(geometry)

The best way to do that is figure out how many degrees the pinion yoke is out of alignment(hint: Use a $5 angle finder from Home Depot) and then buy the proper shims to correct that.

I've never heard of someone needing shims with the same rear axle that came under the vehicle and a proper lift kit. Unless he used long friggen shackles then he might need one.

 

1. I didn't see any link your post just said "this should clear it up".
2. Your telling me that I don't need shims then you told me to use an angle finder to find the right angle shims I need.
3. No one has answered my question on what to do..
I don't know maybe i AM crazy but right now I am very confused. Sorry for your frustration and thank you for your help.

 

1. For some reason the link didn't post, its there now.
2. I never said you don't need shims, I said that under normal circumstances you SHOULDN'T need them. However it sounds like you may have used some huge shackles and messed up your pinion angle and thus you may need shims.
3. Yes, actually several of us have given you direction as to what to do.

First things first, you need to go get an angle finder and check the TRANSFER CASE yoke and PINION yoke to see if they're out of alignment. They should be parallel, or in the same plane of rotation.

If they are not the same, you need to figure out how many degrees the pinion is off by(you can use the angle finder for this too!) Then buy the proper degree shims and fix your pinion angle.

I cant explain it any simpler than that.

 

No shackles just a 3" add a leaf. I will go measure angles and see what I come up with. I was confused because a friend of mine told me that I should use shims to try and get the drive shaft and pinion yoke at the same angle so I just got finished installing 6* shims this weekend and acompllished just that, but it made my vibes worse so I came to the forum. Thanks for the help and sorry for the trouble.