No, many people do it to their rims. Just make sure to mask off the rubber if you do it with the tires already mounted. My old rims were the silver and gold honeycomb, so I masked them, prepped them, and painted them black.

 

Cool thanks for the tips.

 

That's clever thanks.

 

Thanks ...this was just enough juice for me to re-read their instructions for the umpteenth time and finally understand them.

(Pi r not square, pi r round: cornbread r square. Sigh.)

I didn't get it that you only had to remove the lower cup, and that to get to the nut to take that off, you have to just pull out the bump stop. I thought the whole metal part was one piece.

...at which point - and you're absolutely correct - you just push the spacer up to the top.

PM'd the Zone guy ....

 

Yep. Between you and NKofC, I finally "got it" lol.

...thanks for the compliment.

If it hadn't been for this thread, and the replies to my stupid questions, I'd still be driving around blissfully unaware that my entire suspension was completely worn out lol.

...the bad part is that now, every time I see a Cherokee, I'm critically observing the suspension ...and it's driving my wife nuts. That's okay though: I just blame you guys.

 

I know that feeling, after spending 20 years at auction buying cars I walk through parking lots and point out cars with paint work. My girlfriend isn't impressed.

 

Nobody has any info on the RE 3.5" lift?

 

Have you tried searching ? There are plenty of 3.5" Re reviews on here. The re arms are not stamped thin wall steel like the factory arms. They are a little longer, and usually have a flex joint on one end I can not remember if they have a offset on the axle end to allow more droop so it does not contact the spring pad.

 

The kit is ****

 

Thanks, thats what I needed to know. So I can still use the stock upper control arms with no problem?

 

I am still running the stock uppers with a 3.5" RE lift my caster angle isn't the best but I can not justify buying adjustable uppers when I know I will be going long arm

 

Aaron nailed it lol.

I've got the kit too, it's the perfect kit for a dd/wheeler. The axle side joint is offset to clear the shock mounts.

 

Thanks guys. The only other thing I can't wrap my head around is this "shackle relocation bracket" thingy. Do I need it? Or is that just for flexing while wheeling in the woods? I am getting the RE 3.5 with the full rear pack and I do want a smooth ride while driving on the roads.

 

You probably won't, the shackle relocators are for correcting a bad shackle angle. The RE packs usually give a pretty good shackle angle.

 

So when I install the new packs, I should be looking for the same angle as I have now with the stock springs?