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Nice!
Our 2000 freedom has 305k miles on it and the hanger bolts came right out though I did apply some silicone grease prior to re-installation which I do to everything on it we service.
tailpipe lasted 5yrs and rotted away, muffler is ugly but no holes, so i can get another yr or two out of it...so new tailpipe and clamps, cut the rear hanger off the pipe
ive got a spare hanger on hand, dont want this rubber breaking and wrecking stuff, so ill replace this too, ...i put antiseize on when i installed this 5yrs ago, was able to remove and replace the hanger with ease
also did the yearly oil changes on both 98s
When I redid my whole exhaust I used that same clamp for the muffler/tail pipe end. My muffler has a lifetime warranty. The tail pipe does not. I know how the tail pipes like to rot.
My hope is that since that type of clamp does not crush the pipes like a traditional muffler clamp does is that if I every have to replace the tail pipe maybe it won't be so bad trying to separate the two.
Maybe. LOL.
When I redid my whole exhaust I used that same clamp for the muffler/tail pipe end. My muffler has a lifetime warranty. The tail pipe does not. I know how the tail pipes like to rot.
My hope is that since that type of clamp does not crush the pipes like a traditional muffler clamp does is that if I every have to replace the tail pipe maybe it won't be so bad trying to separate the two.
Maybe. LOL.
5yrs ago, i used the lap band clamp on the muff/cat connection, and butted those two together (i think i screwed up cutting the old muff/cat connection and cut it too short)
but slipped the tailpipe INTO the rear of the muffler and used the classic saddle clamp u bolt thing
the lap band clamp failed (rotted away) as wife drove home last week...tail pipe was swinging away under the jeep
tailpipe had holes in it near muffler end and tailpipe end
didnt even try to remove tailpipe from inside the muffler, just used the lapband clamp and cut some off of the tailpipe at the muffler end
there was zero damage to the pipe pieces under the lap bandclamp for 5yrs....just used 300ftlb gun on the bolts, lol
now i know to inspect the clamps around the 4yr mark and maybe just replace then....was lucky that it happened 5 miles from home and i was home to be able to fix it quickly instead of being away at work and having to pay a shop
Fuel line from a 1998 XJ from rail to filter. Did not know even that comes in two parts, but after I discovered the connector in the middle used the line releaser tool and everything came out ok. Looks like these are stainless, so might just have the portion between connectors (front portion) remade.
Driver's side front brake line from master to caliper. Looks like they changed that one up after the older XJ I pulled one from. 1998 looks just like 1996. Going to make up the hardline myself and have Royal Brass & Hose make the flex line with braided stainless.
Front to Brake line from a 1998 for my 1996. All fittings unscrewed fine. That freaking clip that holds the rear flex line to its mount thwarted me. Could not get that loose to save my life. Figuring I used the wrong technique.
OK so this is a pretty broad question I just want to see what pieces of advice I can get: so I have been away for college and haven’t had my jeep with me since July, the jeep runs pretty well and doesn’t have many major issues to note. Anyway so I am looking at making my jeep Freeway ready so I can drive it from Washington state to Arizona where I go to college here in May. I am just wondering what kind of things should I expect to have to fix when I get home after college. Right now it is sitting at a 6 inch lift with 35 inch tires and honestly the engine feels gutless turning those tires and doesn’t quite get above 60 mph on a good day.  I understand this may be hard to answer questions for if you don’t know the vehicle, so feel free to ask any questions in the comments. Any advice is appreciated.
8.25 is in. Replaced the broken stud it had. Ran the brake lines from the donor in for the fronts. Still need to bleed the system. And still waiting on my t-case bushing kit. I also need to change the gearing in the front diff. Does anyone know if I can just change over the ring and pinion or should I just swap the front axles all together? Both are a d30. I will be installing a spartan locker in it (which came today!), which gets rid of the shims on the carrier, but do I need to worry about the pinion if I just swap it with my axle that's currently there? I'm researching that now, but if anyone has the answer I'd much appreciate saving the time.
OK so this is a pretty broad question I just want to see what pieces of advice I can get:
Lets copy and paste here.
Not at all where this belongs. There are no comments, this isn't Youtube. Also kinda rude to post in someone else's build thread. 6 inch lift and 35s isn't really a road trip vehicle...
Clipped the plug since its junk now. Further inspection showed this particular O2 wire was completely sheared. Just holding on by a bit of insulation. What does the black/white wire handle?
Got the front axle swapped and installed the locker. Still have a full day tomorrow before she's up and running again. Tighten down the axles, drain the rear and fill both diffs, attach steering and align, bleed the brake system and install the t-case bushings which finally showed up today.
Fixed drivers seat with cover and foam from jy jeep passenger seat. Plus alot more foam. After with install.... look at all the floof. Things about to explode Before and super crappy
Clipped the plug since its junk now. Further inspection showed this particular O2 wire was completely sheared. Just holding on by a bit of insulation. What does the black/white wire handle?
For the HO years, 91-02, the O2 sensor has 4 wires. One wire is the 12-14 volt power that comes from the O2 sensor heater relay on the passenger side firewall (unless they moved them in later years to the relay & fuse boxes?), and that powers the internal heater in the sensor so that the sensor can work at idle, and almost immediately after start up. Loss of that power will hurt gas mileage even with a good O2 sensor.
Two black wires are grounds for the heater power and O2 signal to the ECU. A poor ground will limit current to the O2 sensors heater or cause an error in the O2 sensor output voltage read by the PCM (ECU) causing poor mileage even with a good O2 sensor. Test the 2 ground wires with power off. Test between the wire end at the sensor and the battery negative ground post. It should read less than 1 ohm.
The last wire, #4, is a signal feed wire, 0-1 volts, from the O2 sensor to the PCM (ECU) sensor. The O2 sensor is an O2 concentration sensitive variable voltage generator. At optimal O2 concentration the O2 sensor puts out 0.45 volts.
