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"O beautiful for spacious skies and amber waves of grain..."
today I was about to paint my grill black and my son suggested we paint an American Flag on it. I'm happy with it.
No pictures yet, but today I finished installing my Zone Off road 3 inch lift with full leaf spring replacement. Then extended all brake lines. Transfer dropped 1 inch. Then tomorrow I installing my rear shocks. Can't drive yet since I have to an adjustable track bar next week.
No pictures yet, but today I finished installing my Zone Off road 3 inch lift with full leaf spring replacement. Then extended all brake lines. Transfer dropped 1 inch. Then tomorrow I installing my rear shocks. Can't drive yet since I have to an adjustable track bar next week.
I just did my 3 inch Kit last week. I ended up just redrilling my track bar location. Stink bug with just the rear on. Gained 8.5 inches after replacing the saggy rear leafs Skyjacker 3 Inch I wore my old football helmet for this process Not bad for a $380 kit. (Leafs, Coils, Shocks, Hardware)
You may have bought some time while it doesn't leak so you think you are good. In actuality, it's getting worse while you are happily thinking you solved the problem. In fact, you made it worse. You have built a trap for water which will make the real problem (rust) get worse. The RTV will hold for a little while, but when (not IF) it fails, water will begin to seep in, which will feed the rust that is the real problem. As it fails more, the water intrusion will become enough that you will notice it again, and by then a lot more damage will have been done. If you are like most people, you will redo the RTV and buy some more time for the rust to do its evil work.
The "gasket" is 100% cosmetic. It does ZERO to keep out the water. The seal is the urethane that glues the windshield to the pinch weld. There is one, and only one cure - remove the windshield, clean out the old urethane, fix the rust, and replace the windshield.
Here are some threads that have good pictures of what you are dealing with:
Funny, I just found a drip from the windsheild today. My plan is to go the glass shop and have them pop out the windsheild and store it, take it home and do the rust repair work. Only problem is I live about 5 miles away and am alittle nervous about driving it without glass.
I guess I'll just wear a pair of goggles lol. Motorcycles can do it!
Last edited by BlackXJay; May 24, 2020 at 12:34 AM.
Funny, I just found a drip from the windsheild today. My plan is to go the glass shop and have them pop out the windsheild and store it, take it home and do the rust repair work.
That is where mine came from in my '00. Left of the passenger side visor. Was having some surface rust issues dealt at the time so figured I would have my body guy handle that too.
In case there was anything more under there that required doing. Turned out to be OK and a remove, regunk, and replace solved the issue.
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by BlackXJay
Funny, I just found a drip from the windsheild today. My plan is to go the glass shop and have them pop out the windsheild and store it, take it home and do the rust repair work.
Popping out the windshield is actually not difficult. Just pull the rubber gasket out by grabbing it and pulling. Work your way around. The corners are a bit tricky, but it's really not bad. Usually, the gasket is stuck to the windshield with a sort of tar that does not harden.
Once the gasket is out of the way, poke through the urethane from the inside with something stiff but flexible. A piece of coat hanger wire, for example. I went through at the bottom right at a very shallow angle to the bottom edge. The I used that to pull a wire through, and used the wire as a saw to cut through. A little lube with Windex helps during that process. The wire is a special window removal wire you can get on Amazon. It's spiral wound so it's kind of like a saw. Works well. Took me about 10 minutes to cut my way around. Then just lift out the window.
Today I cleaned the wheels/tires and rotated them. Rotate them once a year. Figure about 3K on the rotation.
To bad the Jeep is still dirty. LOL.
About 6 years ago I put the McGard lug nuts on my Jeep.
Sorry for the crappy pictures but I was trying to show you guys how they are rusting a little.
These shots are a fair representation of what they all look like.
Thing is the caps are not rusting and that is all you really see when on the Jeep. And they are way better then other options I have tried.
Been thinking about buying a package of 4 and then start defecting them all through McGard. Hey they do come with a lifetime warranty.
You have send in yours, what do you do for lug nuts (MLOL), so I figure I will defect 4 at a time.
See what kind of hoops they make me jump through.
Another thing that I do which I kind of thought was a waste of time was hit the inside of the wheel with some silicone spray.
I figured it would just wash off with the first rain. Crap sticks to it but ends up wiping pretty clean with a rag so.....
Since I have full size matching spare that is included in my rotation.
The white letters I had turned in when I bought the tires. I like the look but as soon as I damage a letter on a curb it would just annoy me so....
The tires have about 18K on them and are wearing very evenly and look pretty good. They are a 60K tire. They will be past there date code and dry rotted
before I even get close to that.
No pictures yet, but today I finished installing my Zone Off road 3 inch lift with full leaf spring replacement. Then extended all brake lines. Transfer dropped 1 inch. Then tomorrow I installing my rear shocks. Can't drive yet since I have to an adjustable track bar next week.
Awesome! I'd like to hear how you like it. I'm still waiting on my 3" kit to ship myself 😪
Installed some 4 hole 19# injectors today. Did the pcm reset. So far I've noticed, better throttle response and a more usable 5th gear on the highway. We will see how the mpg changes.
Today I cleaned the wheels/tires and rotated them. Rotate them once a year. Figure about 3K on the rotation.
To bad the Jeep is still dirty. LOL.
About 6 years ago I put the McGard lug nuts on my Jeep.
Sorry for the crappy pictures but I was trying to show you guys how they are rusting a little.
These shots are a fair representation of what they all look like.
Thing is the caps are not rusting and that is all you really see when on the Jeep. And they are way better then other options I have tried.
Been thinking about buying a package of 4 and then start defecting them all through McGard. Hey they do come with a lifetime warranty.
You have send in yours, what do you do for lug nuts (MLOL), so I figure I will defect 4 at a time.
See what kind of hoops they make me jump through.
Another thing that I do which I kind of thought was a waste of time was hit the inside of the wheel with some silicone spray.
I figured it would just wash off with the first rain. Crap sticks to it but ends up wiping pretty clean with a rag so.....
Since I have full size matching spare that is included in my rotation.
The white letters I had turned in when I bought the tires. I like the look but as soon as I damage a letter on a curb it would just annoy me so....
The tires have about 18K on them and are wearing very evenly and look pretty good. They are a 60K tire. They will be past there date code and dry rotted
before I even get close to that.
Recently I figured out that buying them(lug nuts) in store from a tire shop will get you a better deal than AutoZone/Oreilly/PepBoys/Carquest/Napa etc... and thats because tire shops usually buy them by the box of hundreds. I just spent $13 on all new chrome forged(not capped nuts) lug nuts for all 4 wheels.
Recently I figured out that buying them(lug nuts) in store from a tire shop will get you a better deal than AutoZone/Oreilly/PepBoys/Carquest/Napa etc... and thats because tire shops usually buy them by the box of hundreds. I just spent $13 on all new chrome forged(not capped nuts) lug nuts for all 4 wheels.
Wish I paid that for those. Want say I paid just under $9 for each set of 4.
How are they holding up?
I bought these chrome forged not capped, as you put it, ones from Napa.
Man they sucked. They rusted in no time flat. But they were cheap. I think each set of 4 only cost me $3.
These McGards I got through my store, Napa, but we don't get them from Napa. They come from an outside vendor.
Wish I paid that for those. Want say I paid just under $9 for each set of 4.
How are they holding up?
I bought these chrome forged not capped, as you put it, ones from Napa.
Man they sucked. They rusted in no time flat. But they were cheap. I think each set of 4 only cost me $3.
These McGards I got through my store, Napa, but we don't get them from Napa. They come from an outside vendor.
They appear to be holding up nice... Cant really see them since they are set into the rim so deep. I just washed the dust/sand and mud off from yesterdays run up through "Arch Canyon" and "Hotel Rock" in Southeast Utah. The wheels are 1991 Stock OEM which i just really really like. Kinda O.G. 2 door sport gear wrapped in new 235/75R15
You may have bought some time while it doesn't leak so you think you are good. In actuality, it's getting worse while you are happily thinking you solved the problem. In fact, you made it worse. You have built a trap for water which will make the real problem (rust) get worse. The RTV will hold for a little while, but when (not IF) it fails, water will begin to seep in, which will feed the rust that is the real problem. As it fails more, the water intrusion will become enough that you will notice it again, and by then a lot more damage will have been done. If you are like most people, you will redo the RTV and buy some more time for the rust to do its evil work.
The "gasket" is 100% cosmetic. It does ZERO to keep out the water. The seal is the urethane that glues the windshield to the pinch weld. There is one, and only one cure - remove the windshield, clean out the old urethane, fix the rust, and replace the windshield.
Here are some threads that have good pictures of what you are dealing with:
Interesting. My collateral specialty in the military was corrosion control. This rig is basically rust free but if it is that bad under the urethane, we will just buy another one or some other rig.
I guess RTV was a bad word. I used rubberized roof sealant. At the price we got it for; If the rig lasts 3 years.. perfect.
Corrosion is an electrical process which cannot be stopped. Replacing with new metal is the best bet but even then the welds are often problematic where they meet the old and new metal.
No way I am dropping that kind of money into a 2500.00, 20 year old rig.
Last edited by AudioFreq; May 24, 2020 at 04:35 PM.
