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What did you do to your Cherokee today?

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Old May 24, 2020 | 04:32 PM
  #92356  
AudioFreq's Avatar
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by Ryno 82
Got mine for $54 shipped. I put about 250 of the recommended 500 mile break in yesterday. They are doing nice.
nice! I presume that includes ceramic pads.
The ones I am looking at were 55 a year ago.. damned inflation.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:08 PM
  #92357  
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Originally Posted by AudioFreq
I guess RTV was a bad word. I used rubberized roof sealant.
It's not the what, it's the where.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:52 PM
  #92358  
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From: Colorado Springs
Year: 1989
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Engine: I6 4.0
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Originally Posted by AudioFreq
nice! I presume that includes ceramic pads.
The ones I am looking at were 55 a year ago.. damned inflation.
You would be correct!
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:54 PM
  #92359  
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Year: 1989
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My ball joint service kit arrived today. Guess what I'm doing this week? Oh, advance has moog wheel bearings on sale right now for those interested. Front axle is going to get some love!
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Old May 24, 2020 | 09:58 PM
  #92360  
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From: Colorado
Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
It's not the what, it's the where.
Thanks for the input. I simply did not buy this to refab it and was not asking for help.
Also, I was seven step troubleshooting certified long before I was a master media/audio installer back in the 1980's.



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Old May 25, 2020 | 12:31 AM
  #92361  
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From: Birmingham, AL
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L 6
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Got the carrier in, will be getting backlash set in the am.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 02:40 AM
  #92362  
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
Popping out the windshield is actually not difficult. Just pull the rubber gasket out by grabbing it and pulling. Work your way around. The corners are a bit tricky, but it's really not bad. Usually, the gasket is stuck to the windshield with a sort of tar that does not harden.

Once the gasket is out of the way, poke through the urethane from the inside with something stiff but flexible. A piece of coat hanger wire, for example. I went through at the bottom right at a very shallow angle to the bottom edge. The I used that to pull a wire through, and used the wire as a saw to cut through. A little lube with Windex helps during that process. The wire is a special window removal wire you can get on Amazon. It's spiral wound so it's kind of like a saw. Works well. Took me about 10 minutes to cut my way around. Then just lift out the window.

Windshield removal wire.




No problem. Just don't smile during the trip. It's tough getting the bugs out of your teeth.
Thanks for the advice. Yeah 2 years I noticed a small drip, so I took it to a glass place, the installer did tell me of a little rust which he hit with rust reformer spray paint.

2 years later same drip, so I'm expecting the worst. Probably should have taken it back the first time and looked over the severity of the "little bit of rust."
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Old May 25, 2020 | 06:11 AM
  #92363  
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From: Louisville, KY
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Stock 4.0 HO
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Compared with what I have had to deal with on my 94......Your XJ is in nice Shape for a '91. Your front floor pans look great.
I especially would go after that rust on the rear deck very aggressively. Maybe drop the fuel tank and get the rust underneath as well. Prime, paint and undercoat.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 06:30 AM
  #92364  
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by AudioFreq
Thanks for the input. I simply did not buy this to refab it and was not asking for help..
Here's a bit of advice: If you don't want advice, don't post about problems on public forums.


Originally Posted by AudioFreq
Also, I was seven step troubleshooting certified long before I was a master media/audio installer back in the 1980's.
I will try to contain my excitement.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 06:35 AM
  #92365  
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by BlackXJay
Thanks for the advice. Yeah 2 years I noticed a small drip, so I took it to a glass place, the installer did tell me of a little rust which he hit with rust reformer spray paint.
That's basically what I did with mine, AFTER I removed the rust with a wire wheel. It was not a proper repair, but the thing has a lot of rust underneath and I'm only expecting to get a few years out of it, so I decided that would be good enough. After the rust reformer I used some of the urethane to build up the rusted spots a bit, let that cure, and then applied the urethane and popped the windshield in. It will outlast the other rust problems, so....

Originally Posted by BlackXJay
2 years later same drip, so I'm expecting the worst. Probably should have taken it back the first time and looked over the severity of the "little bit of rust."
Yeah, one man's "little bit of rust:" can be another man's "send it to the scrap yard!"
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Old May 25, 2020 | 10:17 AM
  #92366  
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Year: 2001
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cleaned up the new used rotors for the back, got the backlash set, axles in, basically wrapping up my Trac Lok and Disc conversion. I used front studs for the rear.

Hopefully this evening I will get brakes bled, driveshaft installed and diff filled.

Because this is my first rebuild gonna diff, I'm gonna pop it open again in about 500 miles, drain and refill to make sure everything is good to go still.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 11:01 AM
  #92367  
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Originally Posted by Jpoe0108

cleaned up the new used rotors for the back, got the backlash set, axles in, basically wrapping up my Trac Lok and Disc conversion. I used front studs for the rear.

Hopefully this evening I will get brakes bled, driveshaft installed and diff filled.

Because this is my first rebuild gonna diff, I'm gonna pop it open again in about 500 miles, drain and refill to make sure everything is good to go still.
Looks good. You set the backlash yourself?
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Old May 25, 2020 | 11:11 AM
  #92368  
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Originally Posted by Jpoe0108
cleaned up the new used rotors for the back, got the backlash set, axles in, basically wrapping up my Trac Lok and Disc conversion. I used front studs for the rear.
Hopefully this evening I will get brakes bled, driveshaft installed and diff filled.
Because this is my first rebuild gonna diff, I'm gonna pop it open again in about 500 miles, drain and refill to make sure everything is good to go still.
Did installing the Trac Lok involve all the stuff I read about when guys change gearing and whatnot?
Or is it a simplified version?
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Old May 25, 2020 | 11:22 AM
  #92369  
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So yesterday beat me up pretty good. Figure I would do something easier today.
Detailed the interior. She is usually pretty clean. Not like when I was younger and practically lived in my vehicles.
Empty beer bottles, empty take out containers, empty coffee cups, empty packs of Camel Non-Filters, etc. LOL
I used to pull up to the garbage can in a commuter parking lot every once in awhile and just shovel everything out.
So if I can get the outside of the Jeep done that will be it for maintenance. Weather has been crappy so I am behind schedule.
Not that I have a schedule but am usually already done and putzing around with my little projects by now.
The only thing left is spark plugs but I am going to swap them out and combine that with installing my 155 amp alternator,
getting the old battery cables that are still zip tied in there out, and doing the Viper Coil Mod.
So not that you can see or smell but some obligatory pictures of a shiny nice smelling interior.


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Old May 25, 2020 | 11:34 AM
  #92370  
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From: Colorado
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: i-6
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
Here's a bit of advice: If you don't want advice, don't post about problems on public forums.




I will try to contain my excitement.
Here is a nickel's worth of free advice:
This is a thread about What did you do to your Cherokee today?
Not looking for advice or I would be in a different thread. lordy...
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