I just notice I did something completely different lol

 

I used a screw driver for the hardware next to the window. The other stuff was pretty easy.

I wanted to leave the lower brace where its at so I can use it for the sheet metal dash. That's why I had to separate it from the rivets.

I got impatient and just popped the rivets through.

 

Well its a good learning experience. I just went and took a look. Im not putting any special dash In Im just replacing the old one with one in better condition. I didnt take out the rivets I just took out the windshield and pulled the dash out by the bolts.

 

well this looks like it will be an interesting build, i better pay attention lol nice build!

 

Coming along great man!

 

I was alone a bit this weekend so I worked on the truck a bit.

Chased down some electrical gremlins, fixed or replaced non working items. All around just cleanup work. I didn't take any pics, though, for some reason I didn't even think to.

Either way I have heat for the first time. I am really happy about that, as last year was rather cold through winter. Since my dash is out it was really easy to work on and replace. The coolest part, I think, will be routing the heat wherever I want. I guess simple things please me.

I also got my then signals working, as well as the running lights. However I don't think my brake lights work anymore. They basically switched, which was working and which wasn't. Any thoughts?

 

My right rear brake light went out and I figured it was just a bulb. WEll it ended up being a plug in the wiring harness that had worked its way loose. So from what you said I would guess that it is something similar to that.

 

I dunno man. If I understand my situation right, (its hard to step on the brake pedal and look at the tail lights) my brake lights work when my headlights and running lights are off. My brake lights stay on when the lights are turned on, but don't light up extra when the pedal is pressed.

I really haven't even looked into it, my wife mentioned it in passing. And I'm lazy and don't care too much...til I get rear ended.

 

16 gauge sheetmetal....$40 cash.

 

I got tired of not being able to describe how the top edge of the dash will fit, so I made a mock up out of a cardboard roll and some thick paper.

This is the top bar that will run horizontal from a-pillar to a-pillar. Your seeing a cut-off perpendicular view...if that makes sense.

I didn't want any sharp edges left by the sheet metal, so I will do something like this:

 

now r u guna use the stock gauge cluster and switches and controls or are y goin aftermarket

 

I will go aftermarket with pretty much everything. Although I was looking up speedometers today and noticed they were in the $250 and up range.

Thats pretty pricey.

I may try to gently disassemble the cluster and take what I can, including those "idiot" lights and put them into the new dash.

However the factory gauges for things like coolant temp, voltage, oil pressure, etc are really inaccurate IMHO, and those will get replaced, as well as...eventually...other gauges.

 

im just trying to figure out how the wiring for that is guna turn out

 

The wiring for what?

 

all ur gauges that you will b puttin in