My 2000 xj.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks man!
thanks! can't wait to get the doors done....
With mine I set the coil dead center over the tube to get a little stretch. But I an sure you could off set the "spring pad" to acomadate some variation.
Thanks! First one to comment! lol Put it on back when they where buying them out.
thanks! can't wait to get the doors done....
Thanks! First one to comment! lol Put it on back when they where buying them out.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I changed out my blown shocks, Eliminated the Bar pins out back,a nd the stud up front to be able to get some fine tuned shocks in there. the old ones where to short and Limited up and down travel in the rear, and down travel in the front. I gained 1" up and 3" down in the rear. Gained 5" down up front. measured for bump stops and limiting straps then the Suspension will be SET! I also added a .5" overload spring to boost my .5" in the rear for when I am loaded with gear. Also reset my pinion angle and adjusted my wheelbase to have the rear be centered in the wheel well at full compression... any who no more BS onto pics...
Old pack

New pack with overload and shim (used a 3.8" centering pin)

new ride hieght


and the flex!!!!!



36" from the bottom of the tire to the floor. 3" higher then it was with the old setup.

And stopped when the brake line started to get tight.... measured for the straps setting it 3/4" shorter then this.... will be exstending the center tube to make the bump stop so the spring wont go anywhere! lol
Old pack

New pack with overload and shim (used a 3.8" centering pin)

new ride hieght


and the flex!!!!!



36" from the bottom of the tire to the floor. 3" higher then it was with the old setup.

And stopped when the brake line started to get tight.... measured for the straps setting it 3/4" shorter then this.... will be exstending the center tube to make the bump stop so the spring wont go anywhere! lol
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,366
Likes: 0
From: Spanish Fork, Utah
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renix 4.0L
Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
I changed out my blown shocks, Eliminated the Bar pins out back,a nd the stud up front to be able to get some fine tuned shocks in there. the old ones where to short and Limited up and down travel in the rear, and down travel in the front. I gained 1" up and 3" down in the rear. Gained 5" down up front. measured for bump stops and limiting straps then the Suspension will be SET! I also added a .5" overload spring to boost my .5" in the rear for when I am loaded with gear. Also reset my pinion angle and adjusted my wheelbase to have the rear be centered in the wheel well at full compression... any who no more BS onto pics...
Old pack
New pack with overload and shim (used a 3.8" centering pin)
new ride hieght
and the flex!!!!!
36" from the bottom of the tire to the floor. 3" higher then it was with the old setup.
And stopped when the brake line started to get tight.... measured for the straps setting it 3/4" shorter then this.... will be exstending the center tube to make the bump stop so the spring wont go anywhere! lol
Old pack
New pack with overload and shim (used a 3.8" centering pin)
new ride hieght
and the flex!!!!!
36" from the bottom of the tire to the floor. 3" higher then it was with the old setup.
And stopped when the brake line started to get tight.... measured for the straps setting it 3/4" shorter then this.... will be exstending the center tube to make the bump stop so the spring wont go anywhere! lol
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks man! It has come out better then I thought it would lol
Thanks man! I got some Skyjacker 7000's, measurements center of eye to center of eye. rear's 14.25" collapsed and 25.8" fully extended, front's 17.5" collapsed and 30" extended. I was going to post the part numbers (for my own record but forgot, probably will tomorrow). I found out I can get discounted skyjacker parts and have them pricing extended brake lines for you, I should know tomorrow.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,366
Likes: 0
From: Spanish Fork, Utah
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renix 4.0L
Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
I found out I can get discounted skyjacker parts and have them pricing extended brake lines for you, I should know tomorrow.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I don't know the individual prices... but the front stud eliminator kit, all 4 shocks, rear bar pin eliminators cot about 250$ IIRC? lol
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Went hunting today, took some poser shots lol



I hate pics with people standing next to there ride LOL, But figured I would put my goofy *** up Wearing Camo (Karl Malone's old getup) for refrence of course....



I hate pics with people standing next to there ride LOL, But figured I would put my goofy *** up Wearing Camo (Karl Malone's old getup) for refrence of course....

Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Well, My head cracked... damn 0331 head.
So a buddy (builtnotbought89) hooked me up with a 7120 head (ideal for the swap) I also ended up getting a deal on a 4.2l crank, rods, Comp Cams 68-232-4 4X4 performance Cam, lifters, Timing set for 200$
So here goes the Stroker! Going to stroke the 4.0L to 4.6L, I am shooting for 270-280HP and 300-315ftlbs TQ using the "poor man's stroker build specs" raising compression to 10.1-1 from the stock 8.8-1.
Parts list-
258 crankshaft: 4.2L light weight short nose crank 20$
Connecting rods: 4.2L Rods 20$
Cylinder Head: 7120 (free from a friend, also replacing my 0331 head as its cracked)
Pistons & rings: Sealed Power H825CP 35$ each w/rings .20 over
Main bearings: Clevite $60
Rod bearings: Clevite $45
Cam bearings: Clevite $25
Oil pump: Summit Racing (I am using high volume) (Went with Mopar $55 dealer cost)
Timing set: Summit Racing (have Comp cams kit, cost me $30)
Camshaft & lifter kit: Summit Racing (I have Comp Cams 68-232-4 4X4 cam w/lifters $130)
Cam bolt, pin & spring: Hesco (to be able to install a 96 and older cam into a 2000 Block) $15
Cam bolt washer: Hesco $6
Rocker arms: Going with "performance set" http://www.hescosc.com/shop.asp?action=details&inventoryID=43105&catId=77 58 $150
Mopar Performance 5249464 valve springs: Summit Racing ($88 Dealer cost)
Mopar Performance 4452032 valve spring retainers: Summit Racing ($90 Dealer cost)
Mopar Performance 4529218 valve keepers: Summit Racing ($25 dealer cost)
Pushrods: Reuse stock 4.0, Hesco (I got upgraded rods with thicker tubing, stronger for upgraded cam/springs) $42
Gaskets & seals: Summit Racing, Mopar Performance (I am using Mopar performance) $145 (dealer discount)
Head Gasket: Mopar Performance 0.43" compressed height (stock is 0.51) (Included in Mopar performance kit)
Flowkooler high flow water pump: Summit Racing $110
Thermostats: Summit Racing (went with High flow) $12
High flow thermostat housing: Hesco $28
Using Stock Cylinder head bolts $45
Machining crank/rods and pressing pistons - $165
Port and Polishing head - 20$ kit (Doing it myself)
Three angle valve grind on valves and head - 65$
Ford 24lb Injectors (already had them, $50)
APN manifold (for 91-99 to fit 7120 head)
Exhaust wrap for manifold (keep intake temps down)
60mm Throttle body ($55)
(I am doing all the assembly)
Should net 275HP, 315TQ. #'s are based on someone else's build with the same setup but they used the stock cam.
Should also be able to run 89 pump gas.
= rough total of $1600. should be happy with the end result, and not to bad for a complete over haul replacing everything but the block. I also have a AEM wide band to monitor a/f ratio with live data
So a buddy (builtnotbought89) hooked me up with a 7120 head (ideal for the swap) I also ended up getting a deal on a 4.2l crank, rods, Comp Cams 68-232-4 4X4 performance Cam, lifters, Timing set for 200$
So here goes the Stroker! Going to stroke the 4.0L to 4.6L, I am shooting for 270-280HP and 300-315ftlbs TQ using the "poor man's stroker build specs" raising compression to 10.1-1 from the stock 8.8-1.
Parts list-
258 crankshaft: 4.2L light weight short nose crank 20$
Connecting rods: 4.2L Rods 20$
Cylinder Head: 7120 (free from a friend, also replacing my 0331 head as its cracked)
Pistons & rings: Sealed Power H825CP 35$ each w/rings .20 over
Main bearings: Clevite $60
Rod bearings: Clevite $45
Cam bearings: Clevite $25
Oil pump: Summit Racing (I am using high volume) (Went with Mopar $55 dealer cost)
Timing set: Summit Racing (have Comp cams kit, cost me $30)
Camshaft & lifter kit: Summit Racing (I have Comp Cams 68-232-4 4X4 cam w/lifters $130)
Cam bolt, pin & spring: Hesco (to be able to install a 96 and older cam into a 2000 Block) $15
Cam bolt washer: Hesco $6
Rocker arms: Going with "performance set" http://www.hescosc.com/shop.asp?action=details&inventoryID=43105&catId=77 58 $150
Mopar Performance 5249464 valve springs: Summit Racing ($88 Dealer cost)
Mopar Performance 4452032 valve spring retainers: Summit Racing ($90 Dealer cost)
Mopar Performance 4529218 valve keepers: Summit Racing ($25 dealer cost)
Pushrods: Reuse stock 4.0, Hesco (I got upgraded rods with thicker tubing, stronger for upgraded cam/springs) $42
Gaskets & seals: Summit Racing, Mopar Performance (I am using Mopar performance) $145 (dealer discount)
Head Gasket: Mopar Performance 0.43" compressed height (stock is 0.51) (Included in Mopar performance kit)
Flowkooler high flow water pump: Summit Racing $110
Thermostats: Summit Racing (went with High flow) $12
High flow thermostat housing: Hesco $28
Using Stock Cylinder head bolts $45
Machining crank/rods and pressing pistons - $165
Port and Polishing head - 20$ kit (Doing it myself)
Three angle valve grind on valves and head - 65$
Ford 24lb Injectors (already had them, $50)
APN manifold (for 91-99 to fit 7120 head)
Exhaust wrap for manifold (keep intake temps down)
60mm Throttle body ($55)
(I am doing all the assembly)
Should net 275HP, 315TQ. #'s are based on someone else's build with the same setup but they used the stock cam.
Should also be able to run 89 pump gas.
= rough total of $1600. should be happy with the end result, and not to bad for a complete over haul replacing everything but the block. I also have a AEM wide band to monitor a/f ratio with live data
Last edited by Gorillaxj; May 20, 2012 at 10:09 PM. Reason: adding prices/ updaded current parts list.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 913
Likes: 6
From: Japan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Dang man what a bummer, did it crack after overheating or was it just random? I got that dang 0331 head too...I am leaning more towards an LS swap eventually if my goes, but hopefully not for a few years.
Should be nice to have a little more power under the hood though when your stroker is done.
Should be nice to have a little more power under the hood though when your stroker is done.
Last edited by gvns8; Feb 7, 2012 at 05:21 PM.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Dang man what a bummer, did it crack after overheating or was it just random? I got that dang 0331 head too...I am leaning more towards an LS swap eventually if my goes, but hopefully not for a few years.
Should be nice to have a little more power under the hood though when your stroker is done.
Should be nice to have a little more power under the hood though when your stroker is done.
LS would be nice! I think the extra 70-80 hp will be plenty though...



[/QUOTE]