I dont see why the durango box would make hydro assist squirly? I could see having the wrong ram or something could do that. But then again im not a whiz on hydro assist.

 

Maybe too squirly as in, the better turning radius would be super touchy with hydro? But if thats tthe case, all the better! Smoother steering!

 

Yea it has to do with the lock to lock distance- same input gives more turning. I run hydro assist right now on my DD with an xj box and basically at faster speeds it just requires minor steering inputs at all times when driving. It is perfectly predictable, but if I take my hands off the wheel the steering stays pointed in the same direction and doesn't really return to center as much as a stock setup would. So with less lock to lock distance I am thinking that basically it would require even more steering inputs at all times. I personally think the durango box w/hydro assist would still be safe at high speed because like I said hydro assist makes your steering very predictable. But I guess some people don't want it because it will steer much different than stock. Durango box also has variable ratio just like xj boxes, but unlike the wrangler boxes so that should help too at higher speeds.

The durango box would definitively be better at lower speeds than the xj box though. Great for the trails.

 

True stuff. I wanted to upgrade to a wrangler box for the four mounting bolts vs. Three. But i may consider this box. My jeepp will be only a trail rrig anyway

 

Variable ratio is good for onroad, but bad for offroad. But the durango has better turning radius so for a trail rig I guess its a tossup between tj/durango box. Sorry to hijack your build thread Gorillaxj haha.

 

X2 haha. Back to the build!

 

Not to add useless info., but when I had my cross over steering setup with 1-ton Chev ends on it and hydro assist I too had this issue.. "at faster speeds it just requires minor steering inputs at all times when driving". I couldn't stand it, felt like i was constantly back and forth with the steering wheel on the freeway. When I changed my steering I took my drag link all the way to the knuckle and it got rid of the crap feeling all together. I was driving it around on the highways in Moab in October and it still feels great on the freeway. In a nut shell I guess i'm trying to say that steering geometry has a big affect on how your hydro assist feels. Also, I am running a stock re-man box with a drilled/tapped top cap, EMS Machined bottom cap, Surplus Center 1.5 x 8 x 1 ram, PSC 4.5" pulley. Plate your body outside, bottom, inside, and ditch the aluminum spacer for a steel one. And run a bolt all the way through with a nut on the back side on the bottom rear bolt hole and you'll be golden. I haven't touched my steering in over a year.

 

how do you get the nut flush against the box? will it just tighten down? I picture it in my mind that its not flat..? maybe I am miss understanding lol

My curent setup is 3 turns lock to lock. 1.5 each way from center, there are a lot of factors to a hydrolic assist setup, ram size, fluid pressure, geometry, steering ratio, fluid temp, ect. All can change the speed of steering, responce, strength pushing power ect.

I am not 100% sure I'll go hydrolic assist yet, at least for now. going to try jus tthe box and 4.5" PSC pulley. then go from there. want to get all my other BS out of the way before I start another project on it lol. but have a feeling i'll be going hydrolic no matter what its just a matter of when. I also plan on using a durango box to do so. regardless of "touchy" steering lol

 

It is flat, I think my heim on the pitman just barely maxes out and pulled down on the box just enough to pull the threads out of that hole. So I put a bolt through with a nut on the back side. After ripping the ears off of two boxes, this setup has worked great for a long time.

I'm pretty sure mine is 1-3/4 turns each way from center. Also for cheap insurance next time you have it apart, the part of your steering shaft with the rubber bushing in it, drill a hole through it and put a bolt through it. Mine loosened up and added play to the steering as well.

One of my main reasons for going assist was to take the pressure off the frame/unibody. Then I realized how much it kicked @$$ offroad and wished I would have done it sooner.

 

good to know ill do that. Aside from my steering being super hard to turn offroad,(2low and knowing how to drive it will fix most of that) I want to take the stress off the box, and high steer arm.

So should I go full hysteer when i do hydrolic assist? or run it and see how it is? Just want to set it up once lol

 

Go hysteer! I wish i would have with my setup!

 

I don't need hysteer, so why spend money on it unless it will make things better, I never hit it. hysteer is $$ lol, about $400, arms, tube, joints ect.

 

Yes, it is a pretty penny!

 

Great looking xj, nice build

 

Thanks!