Gorillaxj

been looking for a little while now and figured i should give a full intro.

This is my 2000 xj, 4.0L, AW4 trans, 8.25 rear D30 LP front. 4.5 inch short arm "super flex" RE lift. hack and tap. 32/11.50/15 BFG AT, with some neglected MT alloys (ty PO) lol. remote start/keyless. CB, alpine deck and 2 12" JL's with a JL amp. I love it. i have put new shocks on it, changed all the fluids, added a trans cooler for the bigger tire load and light towing i do from time to time. new radiator, t/stat, water pump, oil pump, lifters, rockers, pistons, t/chain/gears, 3 angle valve grind, ect. just got done rebuilding the motor top to bottom. any who blah blah here are some pics. (with 31's)




just checking the suspension after the lift.



I love this jeep, does and has everything i want out of a SUV.

I would like to stuff 33's under it, get some waggy 44's, and lockers and 4.56's front/rear. retint the windows,get a factory steel gas tank skid, and bumpers.

Gorillaxj

So the axle swap begins, I mainly wanted to do this because the D30 is weak IMO, regearing it and "building" it, costs as much or more then swaping and building axles that are better right off the get go. so here goes my axle swap. I am taking pictures and giving links to help others who are interested in the same type of swap/setup. I am trying to compile a lot of what I learned while looking around, into one spot that people can get all sides of and pics of things that are harder to find. lots more info to come.

I got a d44 front waggy, and Toyota rear for my XJ. I got all the brackets from ballistic fab except the truss and upper link mounts (poly performance). ballistic is awesome, I love there work. sand blasted my diff cover and welded my truss and brackets together.

Here is a list and info on the brackets i choose and why-

coil/shock/lower control arm mounts - 51$ they are narrow (compaired to the TJ/XJ ones and are 110$) which help with mounting space on my axle. the leaf perch is built into the casting and makes it wider then a non -leaf diff center section. It also raises the coil about 1 inch off the tube which will add more lift to a total of 5.5" http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Link-bracket-coil-spring-shock-mount-combo_p_1461.html

Track bar mount - 20$ i like how it is 4 sided and off set is built into it. and its cheap compaired to competition. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Offset-Panhard-Tracbar-mount_p_1629.html

tabs for steering stabalizer - cheap 1$http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Offset-Panhard-Tracbar-mount_p_1629.html

Gussets for added strangth to upper link tower and to bridge a gap from controla rm mount to truss for added support - 10$ for 2 90* http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Cage-gusset-with-holes_p_1185.html

front bracket total = 82$ before shipping and taxes (will very)

Truss with coil mount shown mocked up next to it. you can see how on the right of the pic (drivers side of axle) space is limited. this is the major reason i went with this type of bracket. we welded to the cast on one side as a semi support and to hold it all straight while we finished welding on the other mounts. we heated the cast, then welded the bracket and tube to the cast iron and wraped it with insulation really tight all around to keep the heat inside and allow it to all cool together. this worked and the weld did not crack. but the truss will still be welded to the cooil mount and a gusset ran from control arm mount to truss to eliminate twisting and deformation of the truss. (only building this once)
*edit- the diff bracket that over laps the cover bolts to the truss and cover.

Track bar mount, 1/4" thick. 4 sided, and off set to help clear the upper link mount.

upper link mounts. cut for tube and correct angle. welded in inserts (shown) and uses factory bussings for easy replacement, bushings were included with brackets.

coil/shock/lower control arm mounting bracket with control arm skid. 1/4" thick. super strong and rasi shock and coil pocket while eliminating bar pins...


total so far i am 50$ for my front complete axle
239$ in brackets/truss for front axle (a lot cheaper then pre made truss' company's make $500+, and I have thicker metal then most)
I recived my rear axle in trade for rewiring my buddys truck for a 3.4L engine swap. 32$ in rear axle leaf mounts and sock tabs, also from ballistic.

Rear leaf mounts - 29$ boxed in, also adjustable wheel base built into mounts. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Leaf-spring-perch_p_1485.html

rear shock mounts - 4$ needed higher clearance to drop the shocks away from the tube. got them for a 2" tube and then sloted the mounting side and streched it out to fit a 3" tube. pics will show this later. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/High-Clearance-Shock-Tabs_p_1645.html

so far 320$ before shipping/tax on brackets. including axle cost.

grn99

Looking forward to seeing this. What toy rear are you running? Just asking because I know nothing about them. Are you planing on long arms on the front? Or keeping the RE shorts? SUBSCRIBED!!!!!

Gorillaxj

I have a Toyota 8" 2003 Tacoma axle. it is equal or a little stronger then a D44(same width aswell) but comes with a E-locker from the factory. they are a semi float axle. but some budies i wheel with have these axles with 37-38's and run them hard... with a 2.4L engine but geared low and dual cases. they handle a lot, definatly enough for my 33's, maybe 35's later....

here are the brackets mocked up (work is slow today.... )


This is the big debate going on in my mind. do I push it off for a while longer and buy/build long arms, or get it in there now for an upcoming wheeling trip and do it later with more funding after I put frame stiffeners on...

I have a buddy who can get me parts from teraflex for cost which makes me want to do there "long arm upgrade" (only lower arms) because its super cheap, and run adjustables up top for now. then build a new t/c crossmember and skid with long upper arms...

grn99

I am still running the RE arms but wish I had went to a lonf arm set up when I had the chance. So Teraflex uses long lowers and say the adjustable RE uppers? Do the upper mounts get drop brkts.? Thanks for the info on the taco 8" axle did not know it as an option for upgrade.

MiNi

does the e-locker auto engage or do you have a button for that?

Gorillaxj

yeah its a good upgrade. but they are $$$ to come across which is why its uncommon. but if you see one its a good axle to keep in mind. but in most cases a d44-f9" is cheaper.

yeah they use a long arm lower. and use adjustable uppers. it works but from what i have read it has an odd twist to pinion angle from the different movements of long lower-short upper so idk... these are the links http://www.teraflex.biz/xj-cherokee-...m-upgrade.html
i was told 300 for this kit and 120$ for the ppr adjustable arms to go with it. or get all 4 adjustable arms for 260$ ish.... its kind of a toss up. thinking i am going to do the lower arms now. and run adjustable for a bit. then wait for my buddy to get a scratch/open box return and buy another set for uppers for 50-100$. then make a T/C skid/bracket for the upper links. And the lower link arms would be welded to the stiffeners, and braced for added strength. but still not 100% on this.

The Toyota axle has a switch. on/off. wiring kits aren't to bad. 100$ switch/relay and wiring. threw inchworm.com but the electronic motor is also the downfall of this axle as water has been an issue. but for a "free" axle and locker i have no complaints. I am also a tech for Toyota so replacement parts are cheap.

my overall Ideal for this Jeep is a good wheeler with very low breakage, but also a great DD. most of the people i go with run 35's/37's... want to hang with them for most runs but keep it low COG... so later tub fenders cut lots and 35's... but thats a year or so at the soonest...

grn99

My 4.5 super flex kit came with adj uppers; are yours solid? You my already have adj. uppers. I had heard of the odd twist to the pinion but by limiting the travle of the suspension at that piont you can prevent any damage.

Gorillaxj

yeah all 4 of mine are solid (not-adjustable) which at this point is limiting. and wont work. the brackets I have will make the coil 1 inch higher, and the mounting bolt for the lower control arm is 1" further from axle housing making my angles off, so adjustable are a must.

My bushings are shot, and the flex joints are worn so even staying short arm they would be replaced.

yeah, from what I have read in searching it isn't a bad setup as long as you aren't lifted to high (above 6" estimated) no proof to numbers, but all boils down to pinion angle when flexed. To much angle will add to pinion rotation binding issues. but with 5.5" of lift as a maximum I should be ok. I do think this is how i will be doing it, for short term at least. first goal is to get it on the road with new axles/gears and then skids and sliders, so i will figure out the long term plan for links then. but a long arm is looking like a must.

I will also be plating the diff cover and beefing it up a bit to protect it from puncture

Gorillaxj

I was bored today. I am limited in diff cover choices (because of truss bracket) and don't think I need a high dollar one either. so I did a little home made upgrade and welded a 1/4" plate to the ring gear portion of the cover, making it roughly 3/8" think for a "bump pad". not trying to make a pullet proof ultimate cover. just want to limit the chances of puncture and leaking on the trail. the cover i have is the "thick" factory 1/8" cover. so here is what I did.... the skull is not really my style, but kinda like it (free with order from ballistic, and like strutting there name)
Only cost me 5$ in steel about 10 mins with a press, and have some left over for another...





I know the skull is not perfectly straight. don't really care enough to fix it, lol. let me know what you think....

MiNi

badass skull. i want one.

grn99

If you dont have adjustables by April, I'll sell you mine. I will be getting an IRO long arm kit by then and will be selling them.

Gorillaxj

well when the time comes let me know i may be interested if i haven't gotten any yet.

XxXJ99xX

Wow didnt know the toyota rear axle was so strong and that they put something comparable to a dana 44 in a 4-banger. And did you shorten the front waggy 44?

Gorillaxj

no I haven't shortened it the front is 61" WMS-WMS the Toyota rear is 60". so they wont have to be shortened.

the Toyota rears are strong. they came behind a 2.4L 4cyl, or a 3.4L V6. the solid fronts have a few weak links but can be easily beefed up for cheap.