shocks dont stop twist of the axle. ive mostly seen it with homebuilt 3 links using bushings and iron rock radius arms.

 

One thing I wouldn't mind getting some opinions on it tires. I already ordered some springs, bds 6.5" and was gonna run them on 3" spacers with 35" km2's. Now im thinking maybe just run them at 6.5 no spacer and just 33's. Basically just adding long arms to my current height. I would have to do other upgrades for the 35's I dont wanna get in to at the moment. And with my 33's I dont feel ive never been able to to something strictly b/c my tires were too small. But this thing goes through the same and sometimes more than other shorter wheelbase rigs on 35 and larger tires. so im in a heated argument with myself, 33's or 35's......the long arms are basically done, just need to decide on spring/tire setup. My axles are open right now with 3.55's. So I should be able to keep them alive with the 35's still I could upgrade.

 

Do you think the prothane bushings will give enough to let the axle twist? Ive seen wheel hop on other radius arm setups too. Thats why I steered away from that.

 

Why would one use radius arms and a 3rd link? Or are you saying the 3rd link is the panhard?

 

Yes. Because all the other companies have enough sense to use rod ends or flex joints.

IRO and DIYers don't.

 

No, he's saying he's seen wheel hop in home made 3-link set-ups and the IRO Radius Arms... because they use bushings.

 

I believe I have plenty of sense thank you, and people wheeled before rod ends and will continue to wheel with bushings for awhile im sure. This will work well, its not quite a normal garage job, and no ductape will be used. Lol. And I know shocks dont keep the axle from twisting, but when wheel hop starts a good shock can keep the tire from jackhammering into the ground.

 

Here are a few shots from last night. The bracket that will go on the frame with the mounts for the long arm on them. I had to end up doing a 1" drop in the x member for front driveshaft clearance. More to come its just too cold and snowy here to go out to put in my x member and keep moving forward.

 

you should be fine. if anything they will just wear out a little quicker.

this

9.5 is a ridiculous lift height for any size tire.

and quite honestly i see no point for anything above 5.5" in any xj/mj. you have an alright argument about the wheelbase thing however, but i still feel 9.5 is way up there.

im a fan of km2s however. been on 3 of my rigs and about 55k combined miles and they are about ready to be retired now. had them all over the country in every terrain and they have been nothing but awesome.

 

I have 33 and 35 km2 and just dont know which to run.

 

well you can fit a much larger tire that the 35's. but its down to wether or not you think your axles will hold up to it. id reccomend against 35's on stock geared, axles. especially an untrussed dana 30 with stock shafts and stock carrier

 

Personally, I'd run the street tires until the axles are at least geared right.

OR

Personally, I'd leave it on blocks until the axles are at least geared right.

Once that's done, on 9.5" of lift I'd run at least 38s.

 

I will be trussing it when I put the new lift it.

 

I like the road gears, if I need 4 lo, its just a switch away. I would go 4.10 max

 

You may not mind it but your transmission won't like it. I can promise you that.

I thought I could get by with 33s and stock gearing and I toasted my transmission.