MJ 9.5" long arm build
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From: Montpelier, Ohio
Year: 92
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by lowrange2
To me a capable daily driver would not be lifted 9 and a half inches with 35s on stock gears. There's no way I could drive that every day.
A capable daily driver (To me) would be lifted 4" w/ RK 3-link, 33" tires, selectable lockers f/r, 4.56 gears, some good diff covers and armor.
My current DD is lifted 3", 31's and 4:10s. My trail rig is in my sig line. If I didn't have the trail rig the DD would be built like I described above.
A capable daily driver (To me) would be lifted 4" w/ RK 3-link, 33" tires, selectable lockers f/r, 4.56 gears, some good diff covers and armor.
My current DD is lifted 3", 31's and 4:10s. My trail rig is in my sig line. If I didn't have the trail rig the DD would be built like I described above.
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Model: Cherokee
Originally Posted by Trev1006
31's are way small. I'd be ok with 33's, I have had good luck with em, maybe ill try out the long arms with the 33's and see how she does. So even for the 33's you guys would re gear?
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From: Montpelier, Ohio
Year: 92
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by dogger15
If you go up to 35s then that's when you gotta think about doing axle swaps. With gearing it is what you want to do. Also of you have an auto or 5 speed. With my 3.07 gears I have to wheel in 4L. As far as city driving I get close to 300 miles per tank that's with stock speedo gear and what not. Eventually I'll gear it to 4.88s keep my 33s also since this will be my trail rig
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From: Montpelier, Ohio
Year: 92
Engine: 4.0
I have an auto and with the 3.55's and 33" tires in 2 and 4 hi it has gobs of power and torque. Ive only used 4 lo to drag my buddy's dead tj back to civilization. Lol. And things like that.
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
My dd with the 31's pretty much stays on the highway and very light duty trails. I only put 31's on it to be a bit more capable and still have stock like road manners. Hell, the rear "Sway bar" is still on it.
If I didn't have the built trail rig I would have built on in the middle of the two that I have now.
In MY opinion, I'd gear it to 4.56 even with the 33s but thats just me.
If I didn't have the built trail rig I would have built on in the middle of the two that I have now.
In MY opinion, I'd gear it to 4.56 even with the 33s but thats just me.
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Montpelier, Ohio
Year: 92
Engine: 4.0
Well, throwin another wrench in the build progress. I just picked up an 8.8 out of a 2000 explorer for a hundred bucks. So ill have to start going to.town on that next.
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From: Montpelier, Ohio
Year: 92
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by lowrange2
My dd with the 31's pretty much stays on the highway and very light duty trails. I only put 31's on it to be a bit more capable and still have stock like road manners. Hell, the rear "Sway bar" is still on it.
If I didn't have the built trail rig I would have built on in the middle of the two that I have now.
In MY opinion, I'd gear it to 4.56 even with the 33s but thats just me.
If I didn't have the built trail rig I would have built on in the middle of the two that I have now.
In MY opinion, I'd gear it to 4.56 even with the 33s but thats just me.
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From: Montpelier, Ohio
Year: 92
Engine: 4.0
I think I should be safe with the 33" tire. I hope at least. I will probably go to something like a Detroit eventually, but its better than my open 35.
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
I agree, weld the tubes BEFORE you install it... even on 33" tires.
Find a full carrier locker and that axle will be tough as nails.
The only thing I'd say is the diff on that thing is so big it drags all over the rocks. (If you do rocks)
Mine drags like hell with my 35s.
Find a full carrier locker and that axle will be tough as nails.
The only thing I'd say is the diff on that thing is so big it drags all over the rocks. (If you do rocks)
Mine drags like hell with my 35s.