I do some rocks. But if its tuff ill just maybe make a slider for it and drag it. Ive seen guys trim them and I dont think ill do that.

 

The LSD carrier is alot stronger then the open. I welded the spiders in my LSD carrier and beat the **** out of that axle on 35's, my buddy told me if I could snap a shaft he would give me 100$ so we went out to little moab and I took the front d-shaft off and threw it in low and tried my hardest to break that bastard and couldn't. I did have the tubes welded and the axle trussed as well.

 

How does the fact. Ford LSD perform offroad?

 

Eh it wasn't that great. The bigger your tires,the less it works. I just welded it up and never looked back

 

Well ill be saving for a Detroit, but I drive it on the pavement alot. So Lincoln lock would be a lil harsh

 

Its only gonna get 33" tires so I hope it works somewhat.

 

I didn't exactly shave mine. I took a small piece of place and welded it to the bottom like a skid so the lip on the bottom wouldn't hang on ****.

It works decent. I don't get hung up as much but when I do I'm HUNG.


(That's what she said).

 

Lol. That sounds like the best plan. Ive got a ton of scrap steel. Ill whip something up.

 

Got all the brackets stripped off the 8.8 before I brought her into the garage.

 

Once inside I set out to remove all the brake hardware. I will rebuilt the calipers, turn the rotors on the lathe at work and replace the pads. My hard line on the axle was about the only rusted thing on this. Ill bend up a new one later. The parking brake shoes were in bad shape once I got in there, the shoe just fell right off the backing plate. Im not going to be using the e brake so I just removed all this. I cant believe what a job this guy did removing this axle. Literally everything is reusable, he diddnt cut one thing, brake hose, e brake cable, he even un bolted the u bolts and gave them to me. I'm not into reusing u bolts. But normally guys just hack them out. Especially for a hundred bucks. The diff fluid even looked and smelled new.

 

Then I popped the diff cover to go about removing the axle shafts. To do this you rotate the pinion around till the 8mm carrier king pin(not sure of the technical name.lol) retaining screw. A wobble socket makes this easy. It got red loctite on it so either heat it or strong arm.it. once this is removed, slide out the pin from the center of the carrier. Dont rotate the gears with the pin out, could be a bad day. Spiders can fall out and get damaged.

 

Once the pin is out you can push the axle shafts in and then pull the c clip out, I like to use a magnet.

 

Once thats done, remove the main cap bolts and the carrier can be removed. 2 pry bars makes easy work of this.

 

Once the carrier was out I pulled the shafts and set about welding. Welded the tubes and trussed it with some 2" structural tube. This design should distribute the stress well. Im doing u bolt eliminators, thats my last thing to fab at the shop Monday. Im still not sure how im making them. Ill figure out a design by then. I did all this with my 110 welder, so you dont need a 220 as long as you have a descent small unit. Mines a Lincoln mig pak.

 

For someone reading this, remember to mark which way the caps went and keep track of which side of the carrier the shims are on if you plan on putting it back in without swapping gears. And be careful with the center pin bolt, if you break the head off you will have one hell of a time getting it out.

But those welds look really nice, any particular method you used for welding to the cast? I usually preheat, weld, postheat, and peen. Props for using such a small welder. Truss looks nice as well