There is one flag nut and one bolt that goes through the entire rail if you didn't have stiffeners. You may still run into the same issue

 

Well the crossmember is already installed so let's hope I can get the side bracket in without too much issue... but I'll definitely do the brackets before the links so it won't be as terrible if I have to pull the cross member.

 

That's the route I wish I could have gone. But it was kind of difficult without having the side brackets. Oops. You should be fine without any stiffeners, they just add an extra hurdle to overcome.


Im not worried about the strength how I have it set up now. I even considered welding the actual crossmember to the frame stiffeners in the first place, but I want to give it a shakedown before I make that permanent of a decision.

 

If you had more time, would you do it differently? I'm thinking to still do the crush sleeve and just grind the pinch weld down, maybe even weld the nut where you grind the pinch seam.

I know you had everything installed, so this would be a major hassle at this point in your case. Just trying to get suggestions as I haven't started installing mine yet.

 

Yeah, I would notch clearance in the pinch weld on the inside and bolt it up how it's designed to be installed. If I didn't have frame stiffeners it would be a different story, but I believe welding the side tie ins how I have it now will be sufficient even though it's not ideal.

 

Maybe it's because I used the HDO stiffeners, but I was able to get the nut on without having to do any clearancing with my side braces. Did need a longer bolt though.

 

Did you have driveshaft length issues when you got all your stuff in?

 

Interesting, I have the HDO stiffeners as well. I didn't drill a hole in the passenger side to see how it would fit but the photo I took was on the driver side.

Not as of yet, I articulated the suspension and nothing seems to be binding up. I will have to drive it to find out for sure.

 

I'm really hoping mine is long enough since I clocked the transfercase, lifted it higher and may stretch it a touch if the driveshaft has the length for it.

 

Going to try something tonight with the side tie-ins.

I should still be able to use a crush sleeve. I will use some tubing the same diameter as the crush sleeve as a spacer for the area on the inside of the rail. I will need a little bit longer bolt but it should allow me to clear that pinch seam.

Its been bugging me having those open holes in the rail and not being able to put a bolt in them. Its not ideal, but in theory it should work.

 

Let us know how it works and get us some flex shots!

 

Will do, I ordered some 28" stainless brake lines for the front today. They will be here tomorrow. The 22" stainless lines that I have on there now wont be long enough even with the hard lines relocated.

 

Totally unrelated, but any chance you can get me that $120 deal on a Durango box? Does you're work rebuild them, or they just get them in as stock or something. Sorry, not sure what your work is.

 

It was due to our business account with local parts stores. If you were local I could probably swing it, but I dont have any pull when it comes to out of state unfortunately.

 

Think 26" lines with them relocated will be fine? That's what I got on there now...