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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 08:01 PM
  #451  
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Couple minor things got worked on today after work.

Started painting the JCR fuel tank skid, hit it with some self etching primer, let it dry, lightly scuffed with a scotch brite pad and put down the first light coat of implement paint.

Also cleaned up and sprayed the rear diff cover. I will be ordering a ruff stuff cover for it in the near future. I'm going to change the fluid relatively quickly after I drive it for a bit, just to check on the gear pattern, give the rear end a once over and I'll install the ruff stuff cover at that point with a lube locker.

Boring pics but had to provide some proof.






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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 05:49 AM
  #452  
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One of my friends here at work was just talking about implement paint. He got it from tractor supply to use on some deer feeders he made. He said he went light on the first two but had a tone left over when he got to the third one. So he put an extra coat or two on the third. He said the thing is such a deep gloss black, you could shave in it and the paint is so hard he can take his knife and dig at it without scratching.

Now THAT's good stuff!
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 12:48 PM
  #453  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
One of my friends here at work was just talking about implement paint. He got it from tractor supply to use on some deer feeders he made. He said he went light on the first two but had a tone left over when he got to the third one. So he put an extra coat or two on the third. He said the thing is such a deep gloss black, you could shave in it and the paint is so hard he can take his knife and dig at it without scratching.

Now THAT's good stuff!
Its definitely tough, after i painted my front axle with the same stuff I did all the regearing work, loaded it in and out of my truck, etc.

None of the paint chipped or scuffed. It had marks all over it but they all wiped off with my finger without harming the paint. You do have to let it dry for a while between coats, they recommend 24 hours, with the warmer weather ive found 12 hours between coats is sufficient.


Ill be sure to post updates on how it holds up on the jeep. Ive used it for other projects ive made (jack stands, bench grinder stand, etc) and it holds up great. Im sure the rocks will take it toll on the paint, but its easy to touch up.

This is the stuff. On sale in store right now for 3.99 a can.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 01:13 PM
  #454  
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Originally Posted by LACK
Its definitely tough, after i painted my front axle with the same stuff I did all the regearing work, loaded it in and out of my truck, etc.

None of the paint chipped or scuffed. It had marks all over it but they all wiped off with my finger without harming the paint. You do have to let it dry for a while between coats, they recommend 24 hours, with the warmer weather ive found 12 hours between coats is sufficient.


Ill be sure to post updates on how it holds up on the jeep. Ive used it for other projects ive made (jack stands, bench grinder stand, etc) and it holds up great. Im sure the rocks will take it toll on the paint, but its easy to touch up.

This is the stuff. On sale in store right now for 3.99 a can.
Oh that's cool, I didn't know they made it in a spray bomb. He bought a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff and mixed it himself. He said the stuff is so thick when you open it up it's almost like molasses.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 01:41 PM
  #455  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Oh that's cool, I didn't know they made it in a spray bomb. He bought a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff and mixed it himself. He said the stuff is so thick when you open it up it's almost like molasses.
Yeah you can buy the paint and activator to spray yourself, the brush on stuff, or in a rattle can. Ive only used the rattle can stuff.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:14 PM
  #456  
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I'll have to look for that. Much easier than mixing it for HVLP.. and a much better finish for axles n ****e than rustoleum stuff... don't get me wrong, rusto's good, but that implement paint is like plating.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:26 PM
  #457  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
I'll have to look for that. Much easier than mixing it for HVLP.. and a much better finish for axles n ****e than rustoleum stuff... don't get me wrong, rusto's good, but that implement paint is like plating.
I used the flat finish for my axles and thats what the skid is getting too. Its comes out almost like a semi gloss. But its also a very smooth surface unlike a lot of flat paints. Sticks amazing to bare metal as well.

I always have a few cans of the stuff on the shelf. You will want to let it fully cure though, can take almost 2 days before you get full cure.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 04:14 PM
  #458  
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Originally Posted by LACK
I used the flat finish for my axles and thats what the skid is getting too. Its comes out almost like a semi gloss. But its also a very smooth surface unlike a lot of flat paints. Sticks amazing to bare metal as well.

I always have a few cans of the stuff on the shelf. You will want to let it fully cure though, can take almost 2 days before you get full cure.
Good to know. Really, that's about how long the Rustoleum takes anyway. At least, from my experience anyway. If I install a part before letting it cure for 2 days, no matter how "dry" and "tackless" it feels, it will always ruin unless it's after 2 days.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 09:39 AM
  #459  
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For smaller parts, where / when possible, I always put them in the oven @180-200* for an hour or so. After of course giving them 30-40 minute tack time at ambient. That'll cure most rattle can paint (or otherwise for that matter) in short order.


Did my diff covers that way recently. Shot em, let em tack for a bit, hour in the oven, and reassembled that afternoon.


I run a paint shop in part of our facility. All of our paint is oven cured.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 12:46 PM
  #460  
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Originally Posted by tacklebox
For smaller parts, where / when possible, I always put them in the oven @180-200* for an hour or so. After of course giving them 30-40 minute tack time at ambient. That'll cure most rattle can paint (or otherwise for that matter) in short order.


Did my diff covers that way recently. Shot em, let em tack for a bit, hour in the oven, and reassembled that afternoon.


I run a paint shop in part of our facility. All of our paint is oven cured.
Yeah... I thought about it... but the wife doesn't like the smell of paint for some odd reason
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 01:45 PM
  #461  
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Looks like its going to be towards the end of the month until I receive my 3-link from cav fab.

In the meantime my DIY bumper from Dirtbound shipped out yesterday. Should be receiving it early next week.

Plan for this weekend is getting the rear suspension, shackle relocation brackets, gas tank skid, etc all installed and buttoned up.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 09:50 AM
  #462  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Yeah... I thought about it... but the wife doesn't like the smell of paint for some odd reason


Eh.... once its flashed it shouldn't have much smell in the oven.


But my wife has learned to tolerate the smell of skulls boiling in her kitchen so....
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 10:07 AM
  #463  
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Originally Posted by tacklebox
But my wife has learned to tolerate the smell of skulls boiling in her kitchen so....
Is that a strong smell?

Do different skulls smell differently? How many do you boil at a time? What kind of skulls?

I bet I could fit a dozen or more squirrel skulls in my crock pot. Add some potatoes and carrots, a little celery.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 02:08 PM
  #464  
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Originally Posted by MWMahoneyJr
Is that a strong smell?

Do different skulls smell differently? How many do you boil at a time? What kind of skulls?

I bet I could fit a dozen or more squirrel skulls in my crock pot. Add some potatoes and carrots, a little celery.


LOL No, it really doesn't smell bad at all. Doesn't smell much different than if you were boiling a roast provided the skull is fresh and hasn't been out getting ripe. I think its more of a mental thing for her because she assures me it smells horrible Lots of folks enjoy eating cheek meats. Its quite good.


Mostly, bobcat, coyote, badger, beaver, deer, etc. I tan a lot of fur and some local guys always want skulls done as well. Extra stuff I do and sell on Ebay cause fur prices suck nowadays.


Sorry for the Jack LACK
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 03:51 PM
  #465  
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Originally Posted by tacklebox
LOL No, it really doesn't smell bad at all. Doesn't smell much different than if you were boiling a roast provided the skull is fresh and hasn't been out getting ripe. I think its more of a mental thing for her because she assures me it smells horrible Lots of folks enjoy eating cheek meats. Its quite good.


Mostly, bobcat, coyote, badger, beaver, deer, etc. I tan a lot of fur and some local guys always want skulls done as well. Extra stuff I do and sell on Ebay cause fur prices suck nowadays.


Sorry for the Jack LACK
Is that just to dry the skull out for mounting or do you paint it as well?
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