I probablly ll end up with UTK cause I spent so much on my RockKrawler track bar and it won't be able to be relocated to over the axle because of the way it's bent.

And I don't feel like buying another one then sell this one. Ehhhh

 

Neal, you have a WJ in the driveway, is it insured for theft?
justjoking

 

You could cut it to lenght and re weld the bushing tube to the right length.

 

theres too much of a bend on it in order to re use it. It's better just to use a straight dom tubing.

 

haaaaa Steve. NO. my fiancée ll kill me.

 

What do u guys think of this?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...Code=ruffstuff

 

Started on the rear bumper build by fabbing up bumper mounts.

 

Do it! Some buddies of mine love RuffStuff and swear by their stuff.

 

I have that kit, still to be installed.
The only suggestion I had for them was to have an option for offset tre's.
If you get the high angle links there a different taper.

 

Finally started work on my silver XJ. Took out the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve cover, the rods, and the thermostat housing off the head, set the AC and power steering pump aside, took out the water pump and the fan. Since the previous owner broke one of four AC bolts, I decided to take the bracket out so I can drill it out and re tap the hole. The alternator was seized so I decided to replace that with my brand new spare.

A couple days ago, started to put everything back on.

I decided that my black XJ needed a yellow valve cover so I painted the one from the silver xj, and it's a good timing to do the gasket as well. Tomorrow or Saturday, will take the valve cover off the black xj and put on the silver XJ, so I can put the yellow one on the black one.









The reason for overheating? The radiator cracked and the previous owner decided it was cheaper to pour in three bottles of Stop-Leak and try to seal it up rather than buying new radiator. It eventually clogged up the head's coolant ports. Stupid of him to do so.











Since the head warped and cracked, it also caused the intake manifold to crack as well.









I decided to bring the intake to work and repair it.

Preheated the whole thing to 400 degrees and welded a bunch of filler rods to it and build it up.





















Grinded the excess aluminum away until it looked original lol.

 

I used this chart as a guide when I torqued down the head.






This is most recent picture of the engine, I already added more stuff to it but forgot to take a picture.




I finally got a chance to really flex the jeep after the long arms.


















I thought I had too much bump stops in the front, but after that flex I'm glad I had that amount because it stopped the arms from hitting the bottom of the frame by a quarter of an inch.

If I had straight arms. I probably could have more room to flex. Unfortunately I forgot to take a pic of that.

 

Also met up with Wolfmann, a forum member, and showed him how to install a SYE. (This is my third time)










Then went to the gas station and decided to take a picture.





His jeep is at 5.5 inches on 32's and I had my 4.5 inches and running 235/75/15's lol.

 

Awsome! All of it..

 

Sweeeet, nice progress. Wow, the hard effects of Stop leak. I'd take a close look at the freeze plugs on the side of your engine, or hope you did before you put it all back together. That stuff clumped up behind them on my 4.0, and caused them to rust out. oh and how's your heat???

 

did u mean to take them off and look inside? Or the exterior?

It still look new and shiney. The PO mentioned that it's the second head, the original head cracked at 115k miles and he had it replaced... Lol.

I'm not sure what u mean by my heat?