Maybe I should just find that 'what did you do to your ... today' thread, but I'll try this.

I went and looked at mine on Thursday. The test drive and inspection went fine for what it is and what they were asking so I brought it home right then.

Friday was mainly wasting time with the MVD who can't even bother to see me for three weeks. Who needs a plate anyway?

I knew the ignition key cylinder was a little messed up and the drivers seat belt latch was broken, the turn signal lever was broken off and the PRNDL handle was broken off.

Yesterday I got the seatbelt done. Today I got the PRNDL lever replaced and I have the steering column back together enough to drive it using hand signals while I wait for parts.

Tonight I drove it around and found it was running about 212F and the trans no longer wants to shift down from D so it's like I have a full manual valve body in it. I can work around that for now.

There is an electric cooling fan in there that looks aftermarket, and the wiring for it was really amazing. I found that the energize wire for the relay, laying lose on the passenger wheel arch, went inside and just ended. No switch or anything like that. For now I jumped it to a 'hot in run' circuit and now it runs about 1/4 mark below the 210F mark. (Ambient is about 90F). So good enough for now.

There is a huge pile of other things that need to be done to it, but I can drive it with less than a 50% chance of dying now. Once the turn signal and the very dim headlights are done I can call it ready for prime time.

 

Congrats on the new purchase. If you are having problems with the dim headlights, it may be time to look into a headlight relay harness. It pulls power directly from the battery, instead of through the switch. The switch just acts as a signal. Before you do any headlight upgrades or anything, this would be the starting point.

I look forward to pictures.

 

I did my own relay harness like that for an 82 Subaru. Is the dimmer switch in the column hard to replace or something? It isn't expensive. I figure that is the most likely place to lose voltage in that circuit.

 

When I bought this it came with two vehicle loads of parts that should be installed or had been but were removed to gain access to something else. Piles of trim. Seats that won't mount. Brush bar. External gate spare tire mount. 4 S10 leaf springs. Odds and ends.

Today I put back the exhaust hanger bracket by the gas tank to try to get it to stop knocking around. The clamp I have is too big, so it probably still will until I work over that clamp.

I also converted it from CCV to PCV. I hope that stops the oil in the air box, but I suspect it won't. 400k is a long way to go for any engine. Still it pulls decent and idles smooth so I hope...

 

The headlight relay is plug and play it takes the strain completely off the headlight switch instead of routing voltage to the headlights and being a bottle knock it becomes just a switch and headlights receive voltage directly off battery.

The headlight relay kits are online 20bucks plug it in anchor a ground for each head light and go.

Probably can't even peice your own setup together for that.
My factory lights were noticably brighter after doing the kit. Then I put on some led lights and see no reason for any axillary lighting
Yes wheres the pics

 

Ugh. This was supposed to be a cheap way to get to remote comms sites once in a while.

Today I grabbed a steering column from the local pickit. Just in case. This is where I stand up and give my name and admit I have a problem. This is my 5th vehicle not counting parts cars.

 

The CCV was functioning as a continuous automatic full underbody rust preventer. The conversion to PCV has fixed it.

 

Put in the turn signal stalk early this morning. All functions normal. Also aimed the headlights now that they are bright enough to shine on a wall for aiming.

 

Now I'm putting in a non-cruise spare steering column while I sort out all the problems with my original cruise column.

Mine came to me with some parts missing such as the snap ring for the lock plate and the big spring under there that maintains the bearings. Not being a GM Saginaw expert, I didn't know how important this was until my bearings disintegrated.

I've built the special tools needed and have my column all apart and waiting for UPS to bring me stuff.

 

Yesterday I sorted the huge collection of trim pieces that came with mine until I had a piece covering each pillar and such. Some are the original grey 88 trim, some are newer black.
I also welded up a bracket to mount the vacuum reservoir.
I also welded up the broken parts of the 90s style spare tire mount that came with it. I can't put it on yet because that part of the rear bumper is bent. I'll be off to the local yard to see if I can find a good bumper.

 

Outstanding items I've added to the list.

Based on the gauge temp, the rigged fans and the normal behavior in the town I purchased this Jeep, I'm confident it has no thermostat in it so I'll need to do that. Also, the fan shroud is missing. Someone probably thought it was blocking air flow.

There was a pulley squeaking for a while, but it stopped before I got around to putting in a new one with a new belt. The belt on it now is missing sections along one edge. Can't believe it hasn't jumped off on its own.

edit: Forgot to mention that the fuel level sender quit so that has to get fixed. While I'm in there I'll do the filler hose and breather hose at least. /edit

Exhaust smell and power along with 400k and the above mentioned town indicate a good chance it needs an O2 sensor and maybe a CTS. If it was below 110F I would get the multimeter on some of these things to verify.

I have yet to find an assistant on a day below 110F to run the steering while I look for the cause of the death wobble, but it's quite mild and only between 51 and 58 which I pretty much never have to go that speed. I should also swap tires around to see if that has an effect.

Turns out the oil pressure needle never moves off from 22 psi, so I have to verify pressure and get a proper sender on the way. I'm sure it was working during the test drive, so I expect to find a new parts store version in it.

It must have had a roof rack at some point because there are some nice factory looking holes in the roof.

It needs the front brush bar that came with it mounted, or something similar, but not until after I get the headlight relay harness in it. It doesn't really need it after the dimmer switch replacement, but it shouldn't hurt to put it in and everyone says that OE system is junk.

It needs the rest of the spare tire mount added and a lock for the tire. I wasn't interested in finishing it once the hot weather came back. Actually, I haven't left the house in the light for a few days because of it.

I have to finish rebuilding the steering column now that all the parts and tools have arrived. Then I can put back all the trim.

I have to find better sun visors or recover the ones I have.

New seat covers in front would be nice, but that's pretty far down the list.

 

Last weekend I got the fuel tank out and corrected the filler and vents, and put in a new pump and sender with all new lines at the back. I also got the dodgy exhaust squared away all the way to the back bumper.

Fuel gauge works again, and just as important I can pump gas into it at a normal rate. No more half hour fill ups.

This weekend I also corrected the electric fan hacks.

 

So that occasional slight chirping sound (post 11) that I thought was a pulley and later thought was the water pump was actually the first signs of a spun bearing. That will slow things down a bit on this project.