BTW, I also have a drop waggy pitman that brings it down a few inches. I tried that one first, and the bump steer was not drivable. With this one it is better. Although when I stuff the passenger front, the drag link is like a quarter inch from hitting the bottom of the engine. Wow!

 

lol yeah!
I have been googling my butt off, but I am sure he can whip something up in 10 seconds that I haven't seen

 

wasn't reading posts ha ha
it needs to be parrallel with the drag link to have the geometry right, you can run a bent trac bar but the frame end and axle end need to be an even line to both
hold on there was a thread on naxja that illustrated this i'll try and find it.

 

You need them both to match. not just one. Just pointing out that that's the bigger of the two issues.

Its because the axle side is the only side moving, it moves in an arch, you need the axle and body sides to have the same pivot points (same location) or the bars will move in different arches and get "shorter" and longer" at different rates.

The length is good, but not as important as matching both axle and body side mounting heights. even thought the track bar is shorter it will still move in the same arch as the longer one. so they will be "planed" together if you will.

Since they are at different heights, when one bar is straight, the other will still be angled. which will cause a pulling affect threw the steering and "self" steer like your describing with "roll" steering.

the length is a good thing to have. but If needed to sacrifice length to make the angles match its ok rather then the opposite.

Its hard to visualize but, the bar lengths never actually change. but the relation to each-other will change if they are not on the same plane. once one is on the high side of center it will pull in, but the other is still pushing out trying to get to center which turns your knuckles.....

Sorry described it 3 different ways to try and reach the brain. Took me a long time to understand why it really mattered...... lol

I'll look or a video

 

I have a drop waggy pitman arm for 4-6" lift I believe. It works well. but the TRack bar body mount needs to match

 

OK! BEST PIC I CAN FIND! THIS IS WHY! (yes excited LOL)

This shows what I mean as they need to move on the same plane but length isn't as much an issue....

This si an example of a bad setup. just to clarify lol


On a properly setup steering the green circle would not cross the red (because its shorter) and the arches would be the same and stay equal distances from each other no matter where in the "flex" you are.

 

If they are parallel, but different lengths, the arcs are still different. I thought differing arcs were the problem...Man, I need a steering for dummies book or something.

We'll throw the drop pitman on, a shorter drop track bar bracket to match, and a fabbed axle mount for the track bar on the inside of the spring at the height of the steering arm and a straight track bar. If that solves all my problems, I will be confused, but happy!

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/332052...ee#33205250015

like this jason, this is the "ideal" way.


search naxja there is a ton of info and diagrams on this it's just a pain off the phone lol

 

pretty much ideal...

 

lol, bastard! not I am the copy cat... MEOW!

So when are we getting together to make some B****ing steering?

 

i won that time tristin :P but i can't do the pic thing off my phone lol

 

haha! Excuses!

 

Is this helping Jason? Or did we open a door into your mind that you have fallen into and don't know how to climb your way out? lol.... this mind ****ed me for a long time. not the "how it should be" but the "why" question lol

 

whenever, i'm headed to cedar weds for the day probably but should be home the rest the week. planning on yanking a T case tomorrow

 

You should write a book on building jeeps. You are me and my jeep's best friend