so If I pay in Oct then they will back date it to April?

 

It will just be due in again

 

In April

 

Yeah, thats how it works... you can wait if its easier $$ wise, but it will still be April (how it worked for me) there are no fees as you would still be registering it in the same calender year, so you wouldn't need "back dated" registration to be paid for...

 

Unless you tell them it was inoperable during that time. They can't charge you for past due registration on a vehicle that was inop. So make it inop while it's parked.

 

interesting...

 

Let it expire, then when you want to register it again, register it again. When you do tho, ask for a new month sticker. You will get charged like 10$. If you don't ask for a new month sticker they will back date your registration. Me knows some things, and one of the things me knows is si/et registrations. Lol. I have 7 vehicles and 2 trailers. Now only 3 are up to date on there tags, but its ok.

 

Opinions wanted.
What rear axle should I choose for the xj. D60 with disc brakes, or Corp14 with drums? Pro's con's of each please.

 

< 38's D60, strong enough, better clearance.
> 38's 14Bff, boat anchor with anything less then 38's IMO. I personally wouldn't run a 14B unless 40+ as a D60 can handle that....

just my opinion...

 

Agreed with Gorilla.

It would be interesting to see the ground clearance numbers on both. I want to say the 14B would be more of an anchor, but I do not know if it is. The parts and shafts for a 14B are apparently nice and abundant for cheap in the junk yards. D60 is probably harder to find....maybe

 

So.....
D60------2
14b------0

 

from some searching I have found people claiming the D60 pumpkin is 2-2.5" higher with the same tire size.... one guy claimed his D60 on 38's has 10" of clearance from ground to bottom of the diff. He then went on to say his other rig with 38's and a 14Bff has 7 3/4" ground to diff... thats not much! but you can shave them 1.5" no problem. or shave them 2" and get a cut down ring gear.... (I have no pics/proof of clearance, just inter-web info)

I have a buddy with 40's and A 14Bff, not shaved. He does hit it on things... but it does not hold him back, and shaving it is a 50-50 on if it will leak, so I wouldn't shave it.

At the end of the day, if you know how to drive you shouldn't have a problem with a big pumpkin in the rear. With either axle, I wouldn't run it if its not a FF, just seams pointless to run a non Full float with Full width axles.... Its your rig buy what you want! lol

some good links about this debate...
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php...-14-bolt/page2
http://www.yotatech.com/f31/gm14t-vs-d60-123325/


30spline D60 compared to a 30 spline 14bff!

 

What size tires? what gearing do you want? what axle up front? Both FF, or only one or neither? whats the cost difference ect... 14b can be limiting with ratios...

 

Tires 35, D44 or bigger if needed up front, unknown on gears. Cost is the same. I'm new to this so I don't really know what I want/need. I just want full size axles.

 

I'd go 14 bolt if ya wanna be a bad **** if not find yourself a older chevy with one(dana 60) both are great axles in my opinion but the 14 bolt is good stock up to a 40" tire