Need longer LCA's unless your lift came with em... Caster wont move it that much i dont think

 

Yes the kit came with LCA's. i was thinking i need drop brackets but the kit i got had everything needed (so said) . But ive talked to people and seen a guy with same kit and looks fine. mabe springs need to seat? I can take pics tomarrow to dark now.

 

Looks good. Added some wire sizes for you. Those are the minimum sizes you need assuming the lights you have are all 55W lights.

 

i have a small amount of driveline vibrations as stated before. my lift has settled a lot and they are way less. my rear u joint was a little mangled during the lift install and isnt seated right. if i get a new ujoint installed should i still need an SYE? or is this a try it and find out thing?

 

I just run them all in 12 and just have to buy one roll of wire.

 

That's a try it and find out kind of thing.

 

thanks.

 

I had my CEL come on a month ago and it was a P0303, misfire cylinder 3, I cleared the code and didn't really think anything of it. Jeep ran good, milegae was good, just a little rough on the idle but nothing to really speak of and the CEL didn't come back.
Then I got a new toy, bluetooth OBD reader, so now I can look at codes and the engine a little more real time on my computer and discovered that the engine is throwing the 03 misfire code all the time. I guess that it doesn't do it enough to trigger the CEL circuit, there must be some tolerance in the programming.
So I used the search function here and have a list of things to check and do;

Check wiring harness for breaks and grounding.

Change spark plugs, NGKs since I have an 01, gap .035. Anti seize and diaelectric grease.

Inspect boots and change if required.

Am I missing anything and is are there any gotchas that I should be careful about?

Thanks for the help!!

 

Sounds about right.

 

Check over the entire ignition system, dist cap, contacts all of it. Had same thing w my blazer, end up being cap and rotor

 

If its an 01 I don't think he has cap and rotor. I almost said the same thing lol...

 

Might have trouble find a distributor cap on a 2001...

Sails, since you did plugs already, the next steps are to move the coil packs to other cylinders and see if the misfire follows. If not I'd dry fuel injectors as well. Then a compression test

 

Actually I haven't done anything yet, I am hopeful that it will turn out to be a wiring rub and will change the plugs just because I should.
I will keep in mind your suggestion about moving the packs around if I don't find it with the plugs and wiring, excellent idea rather than throwing parts at it. Same with the injectors if it comes to that.
I am a little confused as to how a compression test or low compression would contribute to a misfire. I would think that the misfire code would relate to the pack/plug/wiring issue. I agree that low compression could lead to the roughish idle and lossy performance and lossy mileage neither of which I have.
Enlightenment would be appreciated!
Thanks and I wasn't really going to look for a cap & points ...

 

Ah haven't done plugs yet... NGK ZFR5N are $7.09/pr at PartSource and Canadian Tire, PartSource has Permatex copper antiseize (higher temp than silver) on sale this month. For the top of the plugs themselves I recommend a product like Gardner bender OX-GARD, it's a semi-conductive grease that's appropriate for electrical connections. Dielectric is still a good idea to put on the plug boots, however it is an insulating grease and can actually cause problems on connectors if they don't make good contact. I've used other electric grease (Sanchem NO-OX I got through work) to restore function on corroded connectors.

Regarding what throws a misfire code, there's another thread somewhere around here where that was discussed. Misfires are determined by reading the signal from the CPS. The ECU expects a certain amount of push every time a cylinder is fired, equating to an increase in the rotational speed of the flywheel. It measures the average of each cylinder and throws a code if it's uneven. Anything that causes a less powerful explosion in a cylinder will throw a code, like burnt valve, missing seals, lots of oil, bad rings, bad gas, no gas, too much gas, bad spark... blah blah blah

An additional question for you - any odd noises from the engine itself? I've been spending a lot of time reading about sticky lifters on the 4.0 which will result in the valves not opening properly

 

Yeah didn't know the o1 had cool packs, what yr did they switch over.

Also check plugs if that #3 cylinder looks diff then the others could have a mechanical issue