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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 02:45 PM
  #14026  
Jrock(fos)'s Avatar
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad

Actually, my cracked manifold made this noise. The crack had grown and made a visible hole in it.
I ordered a replacement but maybe the cracks gotten bigger mmmmmmmm
Old Aug 30, 2012 | 03:01 PM
  #14027  
taxidave's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 111
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
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Originally Posted by NateDogg95
yes, when the sensor at the front of the engine was replaced I made sure that the electrical connector was still good and tight,,,,,,cannot imagine the wire was pulled to impact the inside cluster so just looking for a more logical approach
Originally Posted by Jeepyjeepy
unless its the newer xj style that uses a dual purpose temp sensor you have a second sensor at the back of the head that controls your gauge
That's the one I was talking about to check the connection on.
Old Aug 30, 2012 | 06:33 PM
  #14028  
bmikes's Avatar
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Posts: 517
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From: gresham
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4.0 ho
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Does any body one here have any clever way of bending tubing (for instance just one inch hrew) if you don't have a bender? without kinking it?
Old Aug 30, 2012 | 07:07 PM
  #14029  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by bmikes
Does any body one here have any clever way of bending tubing (for instance just one inch hrew) if you don't have a bender? without kinking it?
You can use a gas vent pipe, only of its thick rigid or equal rigid pipe, and slowly bend lil at a time while moving pipe inward. Works for me at work when I need quick bends
Old Aug 30, 2012 | 07:08 PM
  #14030  
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
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Originally Posted by bmikes
Does any body one here have any clever way of bending tubing (for instance just one inch hrew) if you don't have a bender? without kinking it?
What type of tubing?
Old Aug 30, 2012 | 07:12 PM
  #14031  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by 96xjclassic
Fill it with sand, and hit it with a hammer!
Terrible idea...
Old Aug 30, 2012 | 07:46 PM
  #14032  
rompnXJ's Avatar
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Model: Cherokee
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np231 tcase, i read with a SYE you can use a front driveshaft as a rear; how much lift would that be good to?
Old Aug 30, 2012 | 08:03 PM
  #14033  
xjfirefighter's Avatar
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From: Rochester
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by rompnXJ
np231 tcase, i read with a SYE you can use a front driveshaft as a rear; how much lift would that be good to?
I'm at 6.5" and works great
Old Aug 30, 2012 | 10:47 PM
  #14034  
KEJ 160675's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2
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From: Springfield, Oregon
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l highoutput
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I have no idea how this site works but how ever i will ask my question anyways.

I drove my jeep through a river which I have driven through before and I have driven through deeper water also. but after this last time I drove back to camp and the check engine light came on. I got to camp shut it off and then tried to start it and it would not start unless i put the peddle to the metal. the once it started it idled at around 1200rpm.
which it usually idles at 800 rpm. then the next day I drove it to kadel's autobody and had the diagnostics computer read my jeep. It said idle air control motor and I took the throttle body off and the completely apart cleaned everything. the check engine light went off and 3 engine starts later it went back to running like it was so i bought a brand new idle air control motor and then the check engine light went off but the engine was idleing at 3000 rpm, and then 3 engine starts later the check engine light came back on.

so untill I get it figured out I put the old idle air control motor back in it so it wouldn't idle so high.

its and 93 sport 5 speed 4.0l high output with 263XXX miles.
Old Aug 30, 2012 | 10:54 PM
  #14035  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by KEJ 160675
I have no idea how this site works but how ever i will ask my question anyways.

I drove my jeep through a river which I have driven through before and I have driven through deeper water also. but after this last time I drove back to camp and the check engine light came on. I got to camp shut it off and then tried to start it and it would not start unless i put the peddle to the metal. the once it started it idled at around 1200rpm.
which it usually idles at 800 rpm. then the next day I drove it to kadel's autobody and had the diagnostics computer read my jeep. It said idle air control motor and I took the throttle body off and the completely apart cleaned everything. the check engine light went off and 3 engine starts later it went back to running like it was so i bought a brand new idle air control motor and then the check engine light went off but the engine was idleing at 3000 rpm, and then 3 engine starts later the check engine light came back on.

so untill I get it figured out I put the old idle air control motor back in it so it wouldn't idle so high.

its and 93 sport 5 speed 4.0l high output with 263XXX miles.
Welcome to the site. Try unplugging the Coolant Temperature Sensor and then starting the Jeep. If it runs normally with the sensor unplugged, replace the sensor. If it still has that problem, your issue is somewhere else. That doesn't seem to be a common failure point, but it is a very easy one to check and fairly cheap to fix.
EDIT: Your Coolant Temperature Sensor is on the thermostat housing in '93. It is not the same as the Coolant Temperate Sending Unit (that operates the gauge on the dash) which is at the back of the head.

Last edited by NewKindOfClown; Aug 30, 2012 at 11:06 PM.
Old Aug 31, 2012 | 01:53 AM
  #14036  
avision's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 181
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
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So after I put in a new water pump a week or two back, again and installed a gatorback my mysterious chirp vanished, I was so happy since I have replaced every fracking thing on the front of the motor, all was wonderful for 4 days. Now it's chirping again. I have been thinking about putting 6 .357 size holes in my jeep this last week. So tired of tracking this down, I don't know what else to do, everything seems aligned well enough. I have tried the mechanic route and they told me 3 different things 3 different times. I will be getting a new motor soon, smoking all the time now, what are the chances of the chirp plaguing me after that's done? Should I find some new brackets before hand? Any advice would be appreciated. Oh and anybody have a spare hinge pin that will fit my 94? I broke one last week trying to put my 1000lb doors back on.
Old Aug 31, 2012 | 09:37 AM
  #14037  
a_shirey's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 8,272
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From: Baltimore, MD
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
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when changing a valve cover gasket do you have to drain the oil first?
Old Aug 31, 2012 | 09:38 AM
  #14038  
dukie564's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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no
Old Aug 31, 2012 | 09:42 AM
  #14039  
a_shirey's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 8,272
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From: Baltimore, MD
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
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Originally Posted by dukie564
no
thank you kind sir.
Old Aug 31, 2012 | 09:48 AM
  #14040  
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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So I have 35 minutes to kill before lunch, I'm not supposed to still be at school. So I'm currently hiding in a gravity feeder I've been working on.

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